BACK UP CAMERA FOR 2012 PRIUS two TOUCH SCREEN- NON NAV

Just read through that, that is ridiculously detailed and a bit over the top but that's too be expected for an OEM service manual. I see that there is a factory harness connector for the camera, does anyone know if there is a part number for that? It would make the installation a good bit easier, just extend the wires and it would be essentially plug and play into either footwell spot or headliner plug.

I have the Tacoma camera on order and it's shipped already. If I can get someone to help me out as an extra pair of hands, I'll take pics for a full DIY.

 

FWIW, Attached are photos of a 2012 Prius stock rear-view-camera (red) and a 2012 Camry (silver) and a PriusV (White)

 

Just testing the eBay camera with always hot 12+v supply. I hope I can finish the wiring next couple days. So far so good.

 

Base on "prius c forum", two diodes installed should work, but my eBay camera won't have enough juice to power on with 6.5v. This is the trick to fool the system while boot up. It checks camera if presents! Therefore it depends on camera which can be powered on with 6.5v. Unfortunately my camera doesn't. I just ordered the the "6v to 12v step up converter", I may try 6v relay later too.
Check it out
Rearview Camera | Page 7 | PriusChat
It seems the 12V diode "mistakely backward"

 

I use 6v relay I bought from radio shack 275-0240 and it works great. I like this relay because its small I can bundle it with wires. Soldering 6v+(white wire) to relay coil lead and soldering ground (orange) & camera ground to the coil other lead. T tapping from 12v+ of wiper (blue wire) and run wire (approx 3ft) and soldering relay "common" lead. Final soldering camera v+ to the relay "normally open" lead. Here is the pic of 6v relay and I will post wiring diagram when I come to my office Monday.

 

Im planning on adding a backup camera to my prius II. If I get one from a toyota junkyard if I understand this post correctly I should not need to run the diodes. Is this correct? Also the plug that I need to tap into is on the head unit? Any help would be great thanks

 

I have just completed my camera install, and it works well.

For some reason, the camera would produce a fuzzy image when the 6v signal wire (white) was used, regardless of diode orientation/use, I simply disconnected the wire. The camera is activated via the reverse lamp with single diode, no ground used from the lamp. I used 3 of the 4 camera wires (red, black, orange), t-spliced from the front kick panel. I could see the wires/harness under the headliner, but they were too difficult to access for splicing.

I don’t recall seeing it posted, but the hatch outer panel needs to be removed (4 nuts inside hatch, located behind trim panels), and a hole drilled into the hatch for feeding wires - no biggie. Once wires were fed through the hole, I sealed the hole with silicon.

I used plastic epoxy to glue the camera in place, from inside the outer trim piece. This camera fit perfect in place of the removed black plastic cover (no bolts, just snaps out). The camera (for "09-11 Camry") would not snap firmly in place, hence the epoxy.

Here's the link to the camera (3 days from China, $55 + $10 express shipping):

2009-2011 Toyota Camry CCD NTSC Car Rear View Backup Reverse Waterproof Camera | eBay

Below are some images from the install.

 

Here is my wiring diagram, feel free to correct if mistakes.

 

I think I'll attempt the headliner this Sunday hmnn =/ wish me luck

 

Pull the 3 rear plastic push-tabs out of the headliner, gently pull down on the headliner from the rear and you can see the harness. You can't pull down far enough to work in the confined space without creasing the headliner.

You will need to remove the rear side trims and the rear ceiling lamp to be able to pull down any further. You may also need to remove the rear seat belt shoulder straps.

It is easy to pull wires through the rubber tube if you detach it from top and bottom mounts. The bottom mount consists of a hard plastic insert, fed into the bottom of the tube, which pops out through the top of the lower body hole. To release the plastic insert from the body, stick you hand between the headliner and body and press in on the 4 tabs located on each side of the hard oval insert. You will need to reseat the hard insert into the lower portion of the tube and then pop the insert and tube back into the lower hole for proper seating/sealing - this seal needs to be water tight.

Good luck.

 

Don't you have to remove at least one rear side trim to run the wire to the front kick panel ? If you took that off
and the rear ceiling light, could you get at the connector then ?

 

I just realized that coupling two diodes will reduce voltage ((6+12)/2=9v, in parallel). It causes image fuzzy!

 

Jay J,
Did you get your camera n wiring via the head liner ?
Ray6088,
When you ran the wires to the kick panel, didn't you have to remove at least 1 rear side trim ?
Thanks

 

So I finally got around to installing everything this weekend. It took much longer than expected mainly due to some logistical hiccups and fishing the darn wire through the rubber hatch tunnel.

I used the OEM install guide from this thread to figure out how to remove panels as needed. I started taking pictures but quickly realized the oem guide provides better schematic which way to pull and where the tabs/pins are. What I will provide instead is a summary of my install experience.

The kick panel came off easily enough, same with front door sill and rear door sill. A good wire stripper that can work in tight spaces is recommended here. I didn't have one that could work in that space so had to resort to a razor blade to slowly trim off the required wire insulation in the factory harness. Moving on to the rear hatch area, we left the rear trunk panel in place and managed to pry loose the SRS airbag panel, followed by the three pins on the headliner and we now had access to the rubber wire tunnel. Through much trial and error, I finally recommend taping some string to a wire hanger, run it through, remove wire hanger, tape the electrical wire to the wire and pull through.

The hatch pieces come off top, left, right pretty easy. For the life of me, I couldn't pry off the middle piece but managed to get right to the lower piece so ultimately left the middle piece in place. There are then four bolts to remove. Then you're ready to pull off the panel from outside the trunk. Be careful to not close the trunk at this point, as you would have disconnected the trunk switch at this point. If you do, climb in the back and there is a manual switch in the cargo tray area. When you pull the trim piece off you're ready to remove the oem blank and figure out your mounting options.

I went with an oem Tacoma camera and highly recommend ordering the crimp pins. The pins made it much easier to test the camera as well as disconnect wires and camera as we figured out each trim piece and where wires should go. Just image if you had soldered in the wires at this point.....

instead of drilling a new out the hatch to the trimpiece outside, I just removed on clip and ran the wire through that.

Now, since at this point it was starting to run late in the day I decided to just use the oem blank as a starting point and drill a hole through it for wires and use double sided tape to hold the camera in place.

If I had more time and some moldable epoxy to work with I would probably have cut the oem blank and use epoxy to fab a better bracket but for now it's securely in place and I can see outback through the factory head unit.

 

I like others bought the Toyota Universal Camera on ebay for $50 and have a little tip for everyone. I know a few people went out and bought female terminal connectors for the camera hookups, or just cut off the plastic around the terminals and soldered onto the terminals.

If you have a old computer at home that you do not use anymore then open it up and look inside and you will see some cables running from board to board that have 4 prong black female connectors. Just unplug those wires and take them out. Then cut out the middle prongs on them and you will have two separate female terminals to use instead of going out to buy some.

 

So that I don't have to go out and buy two different cameras, just in terms of aesthetics, ebay Camry camera will provide oem fit, but it's 9V. The Tacoma rear view camera is 6V but does not have an oem look? Do I have this correct? If so, I might go with Camry and figure it out with diodes. Thanks in advance!

 

Thanks for the input! I did infact order one yesterday and the connection clips as well. I'll tap in to the either driver side brake or rear light since I'm going to route the wire towards that vicinity.