ScanGauge For the Plug-In

yes but the UI is so baroque that you'd never accidentally change any settings without absolutely meaning to...

 

I think that the following are especially valuable to know:

SOC (State of Charge of the traction battery) This tells you the actual % level of charge remaining in the traction battery, not just the operating range of the dash display. It shows you that the dash display is not the whole charge range

BtT (Traction battery temperature) Some say that it is not good to charge a hot traction battery. I have yet to see an indication of how hot is too hot, but less than 100 degrees is probably not "hot" . So far I have not seen over 75 degrees.

VLT (12v battery voltage) The only time this is useful is in the few seconds between shut down and the ScanGauge "going to sleep". While the car is in "Ready" the reading is showing the charging level which is going on. But in these few seconds, you see the real charge level of the 12v battery.

RPM I find it interesting to know when the ICE is running. With my PiP, I can't hear or feel dependably when the ICE is running.

MPH It is what it seems to be, however the ScanGauge is more accurate. Toyota intentionally makes the dash readout of the speed very slightly optimistic.

There are several other "gauges" which are available but which I do not find compelling. But I watch the first two all of the time.

Some are "xGauges" which means that a few minutes must be spent to enter numbers. This is all addressed in instructions which come with the ScanGauge. There are PC threads which address this, as well.

 

I noticed the same (on Torque and also pacing a Honda Civic with its giant speedo display).

Isn't this an issue? If I recall, there was a class action against Honda because their speedometers were fast by about 5%. As a result of the legal action, they extended all affected vehicles' warranties by 5% (mileage).

 

I can't remember where I saw it. What I recall was an explanation by Toyota of some international convention calling for something like a 1.7 percent increase in the apparent speed over the actual speed. I seldom see more than a one mph difference between what reads out on the ScanGauge and the in dash speedometer. Of course if you install larger than stock tires, you can change this difference.

 

Thanks.. I did a quick search and found this on a Mini forum.. no source cited, but makes sense:

 

Isn't GPS likely to be the most accurate way to measure speed (like in a smart phone or a standalone unit)? GPS is not dependent on factors like tire size.

 

Yes, of course, but if you have a ScanGauge, this is useful and handy.

 

You have no idea how much this has helped me in the 20 minutes of driving since I bought it. If I at least know whats going on I feel better.

Any PiP tips would be great as I am a total scan gauge noob.

 

Engine warm-up completes at 130°F when in EV mode.

That's helpful to know after a hard acceleration. It seems like forever when having done that with a cold engine. But with the gauge, you can see exactly when it will shut off. And with a hot engine, you take advantage of the fact that the engine will shut off immediately upon completing a hard acceleration.

Without knowing coolant temperature, I could imagine new owners being really mystified as to what the system is actually doing... especially when heater demands in the winter add to operation complexity.

 

Thanks John, I did notice the ICE shut off after 130, pretty cool to be able to see the temp. I was combining errands today and noticed that getting back in the car when the FWT remained in the 180 range, the ICE still warmed for a few blocks.

I am also anxious to see how much power different features are drawing. Would that be battery amps?

 

"Plug In Prius has HV ECU at 7E3 (Same as Gen II)"

What does this mean exactly? I see 7E2 in some of those code strings, do I change it to 7E3?, but the Gen II codes also have 7E2 in those spots, so I don't know exactly what to do with those white cells.

LINK

 

Maybe I shouldn't mention this among ScanGauge owners, but my alternative is my Android phone with the Torque Pro app and a $16 Bluetooth OBDII sender from Newegg. Add-on PID definitions are available for all the PiP codes. Total cost $21 (not counting the phone). Flexible displays, logging, everything. It even has a HUD mode that flips the display so it can be placed above the dash where the reflection is visible (though the PiP doesn't really need another distraction).

 

The custom PIDs for PiP is here. I think a lot of them are the same as GenIII but the battery blocks are different.

 

One minor (I guess) problem I have with my SG is that it can exaggerate MPG. For instance, when stopped with the ice off, it reads 0.0 MPG which is true. But when the car is stopped and the ice is running, say for warming purposes, the SG still reads 0; when in fact it should read some MINUS (-) value.

radio

 

Actually, it's the other way around. When stopped with the ICE off, it is 0 miles divided by 0 gallons, which is indeterminate. When stopped with the ICE on, it is 0 miles divided by some positive, non-zero gallons, which is 0 MPG.

The correct thing would be to display something like "n/a" when the ICE off.

 

Does this inexpensive setup allow you to CHANGE things like backup beep also or do you need actual ScanGauge to do that? If yes, $21 is much better than begging dealer to change it for you.

 

Yes, Torque will allow you to change the backup beep to one beep and turn off the seat belt reminder if you wish

 

You can't get worst MPG than 0. You can idle all day and go 0 miles. Generators and such use gallons per hour and/or just have an hour meter.

 

How did you tuck the cat5 under the headliner, as its pretty flush with the windshield?