GEN II P3190 DTC Engine Stalling, No start. PLEASE HELP...

If an accident impact inertia switch was the problem, then the fuel pump motor would not run.

 

I wonder if fuel pump filter sock is completely clogged?

Also measure the voltage on the supply to the pump and see how low the pump is pulling it. The pump may be shot and just making pump sounds but not actually pumping. Tell us the difference in voltage between pump on & off and we can tell you how much current the pump is pulling and if its not right.

 

Have you tried running the car with the fuel pump running from the external battery.

 

There is a wiring diagram in the file library, it's for the US version Prius but I do not think the UK version will be different for the fuel pump. The pump is shown in engine control page 2 of 4 sorry the system will not allow me to post it. Hope this helps.

 

Good one Brit. Who'd a thunk.

 

Cool but what does DRAIN ON HARNESS mean? Are you saying the 12 volt B+ to the pump is low? If you can measure that you should be able to cut into that harness and externally drive it like Brit said. Fuel pumps are a pain in the tookus. They fail at various levels by pumping lower volume until they eventually just stop pumping.
Its especially hard to tshoot on a Prius.

 

Since you replaced the circuit opening relay, I suggest that you measure the voltage at the circuit opening relay socket, at both switched terminals. See if there is any significant difference in the voltage readings, if yes then that is evidence the relay is bad. If the voltage reading is similar, note what it is. (For example, 11.5V.)

You'll need to insert a short piece of wire into each relay switched terminal and then plug the relay into the socket. The idea is for the wires to allow you to measure voltage while the relay is installed.

Power will be applied by the engine ECU to the circuit opening relay coil terminals for only a limited period of time when you are trying to start the car, so you may need someone to help you to turn the ignition key to Start while you watch your DMM reading.

Then, find the fuel pump wiring harness connection and measure the voltage at the fuel pump, again by having a helper turn the ignition key to Start. The wiring harness needs to be connected to the fuel pump while you are measuring voltage, so that you can see the actual voltage being applied to the fuel pump, accounting for resistance losses in the wiring. You may be able to back-probe the wiring harness connector to get a voltage reading, otherwise you need to use a piece of wire inserted in the positive terminal, much as I suggested for the relay voltage measurement.

 

A tip for using the wiring diagram is to print the relevant pages trim them and tape them together. Makes it much more easy to follow where wires go and where voltages are switched by relays etc.

 

I know this is an older thread, but I have a 2005 that I picked up as a project. No known information from previous owner as she didn't speak English, and simply said the car stopped moving. It went to a shop that specializes in Toyota's, but not Prii. They honestly had no idea what they were doing and couldn't get it to do anything more than I can.

SO, I have the same 3190 code. Engine turns over for about 5-10 seconds, and then shuts off with the red triangle. I have tried to reset the 12v battery to clear everything, but it simply does the same thing over again. Luckily my wife has a 2005, so I have swapped some parts, with no success. This includes the coil packs, crank sensor, AFM (or whatever Toyota may call if on the Prius), and the entire throttle body. Each part from the dead car worked great on hers, and the part from her car did not change anything with the dead car.

Here is what is even more mysterious. I checked the best I could, and it had good spark on at least cylinder 1. When you get it to turn over, it also spits fumes out the exhaust, and they seem to be fuel vapors. It will fill the garage in just those few seconds. It is definately a garage door open activity.

Any other thoughts? Anything obvious that I am missing? Car has a full tank of fuel, but it is from the previous owner. Thought it might be a bad tank as it is reading 100% full. Not looking forward to trying to drain the tank. Hoping it was something else.

 

Here is the full list of potential issues to check with DTC P3190:

Air induction system
Throttle body
Fuel pressure
Engine
Mass Air flow meter
Out of fuel
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Crankshaft position sensor
Camshaft position sensor
ECM

At this point, you might check fuel line pressure (should be 44 - 50 psi) and maybe swap the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors to make sure they are operational on your working Prius.

I also suggest that you should not continue trying to start the engine on the dead Prius until you actually find something wrong and fix it. At some point the traction battery SOC will get too low and you'll have another problem to deal with.

 

I should mention that one of the things I did was to take the throttle body off and clean out the gobs of oil in the bottom of the intake. Also changed out the plugs. This was the first thing I did.

Next on the list is the fuel pressure. I need to figure out how to get a reading on it. I know there was talk earlier in this thread about how to power the pump to test the PSI.

I have been working on this since October. I have slowly made a bit of progress. The shop managed to drain the traction battery too low. I have done the re-charge procedure a couple times now. Got it fully charged again last night, so back at it again.

In regards to the list:

Air induction system - checks out good
Throttle body - checks out good
Fuel pressure - pending test
Engine - has decent enough compression
Mass Air flow meter - checks out good
Out of fuel - gauge reads full, and it definitely has fuel coming out the tailpipe
Engine coolant temperature sensor - unsure where it is located. Will put on the to-do list.
Crankshaft position sensor - checks out good
Camshaft position sensor - on my to-do list.
ECM - unsure how to determine if this is an issue

 

The engine coolant sensor is mounted in the cylinder head, on the side facing the inverter. The inverter is supposed to be removed for access. Rather than do that, see if you can remove the wiring harness connector and measure resistance across the sensor terminals. If you can do that, compare the resistance with the sensor in your good Prius, when both engines are cold.

I know you've already checked spark on one cylinder. Maybe you should check the other three while you are at it.

Please make sure the 12V battery is kept fully-charged. The battery should be disconnected to clear the DTC before you try starting the dead Prius.

As you are evaluating the various engine sensors, how does the associated wiring harness look? Any obvious damage to the wires?

If you decide to drain the fuel tank, I believe that a screen at the entrance will prevent a siphon hose being inserted. So the best method to drain would be to disconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail in the engine compartment, attach an extension hose to the fuel line running to a drain container, then apply 12VDC to the fuel pump and let the pump move the fuel from the tank into the drain container.

Save the ECM for last. If you get to that point, you'll need to swap it into your good Prius and see if the engine starts.

The ECM is behind the glove box. To get it out requires taking apart the dashboard and removing the passenger-side airbag for access. A swap will be painful since you'll need to go through this process for both Prius.

 

I already have a lot of the trim torn apart around the top of the engine, including all the windshield wiper stuff, so I should be able to at least get the coolant sensor out of the dead car with ease. I have swapped them before on my 87 4Runner, but it is right up front and easy to access.

One of the things I intend to do is check spark on each cylinder, as well as compression. I just started with cylinder #1 to make sure that there was at least a signal from the cam sensor to tell the plugs to fire.

All the wiring on the car is intact and in good shape. The shop that worked on it didn't do much to get the engine to turn over. Basically, they just replaced the 12v battery, got the engine to turn over, the codes to spit out, and told them they needed a new HV battery. Of course, the battery was almost completely drained at that point. Charging it has allowed the engine to turn over with ease, and even go into D or R and move a bit.

I actually have to unplug the 12v each and every time I leave the car. The hatch is open with the HV battery opened up. It is just better to do that than drain the 12v with the hatch open.

I poked my head under the car tonight, and it doesn't look like there is a fuel tank drain cock?

Lastly, I have done a lot of searching, but can't find where I would attach a fuel pressure gauge. I guess if the PSI drops too low, which isn't unheard of, the car will run horrible. I am used to older cars with lots of different fuel connections, and external filters.

I should also mention that I have done a TON of reading on here over the last few months. It has been a great site. Thanks for all the help!

 

The Prius fuel tank contains a flexible bladder. That is why there is no drain cock and you need to run the fuel pump to drain the fuel tank (see my prior post above.)

You would disconnect the fuel line where it connects to the fuel rail that feeds the four injectors, when hooking up the fuel pressure gauge or an extension hose to allow you to drain the tank.

You may need to subscribe to techinfo.toyota.com so that you have access to factory repair manual info and can read more about how to measure fuel line pressure etc.

 

How annoying is this post? You can't recall the last thing you did the car before it fired up?