expensive oil changes?

Do you have any VOA and/or UOA's on those Royal Purple oils? It seems for some reason analyses on RP oils are tough to come by on BITOG. I don't see that RP makes a 0W-20 "racing" oil....why would you intentionally shy away from the additive package needed for API approval? What are you doing that's significantly different from intended street application?

Royal Purple does make a 0W-20 API SN oil, that would be acceptable, however there are plenty of UOA's on Mobil1 0W-20 AFE that prove it's a competent oil with a rational additive package.

 

Anybody can choose to do simple maintenance on their vehicles or choose to have someone else do it. However, when someone else does the work you can expect less attention to detail than if you did the work. The less attention to detail translates into: stripped drain pan threads, drain plugs that were not tightened properly and back out, engine oil overfills, lack of enough engine oil fill, and the wrong oil used. Tire rotation problems include broken wheel studs, overtightened lug nuts, etc. Remember that dealerships and all other service outlets use the least trained personnel to perform "routine" tasks. They weed out these people based on the mistakes that they make. Frankly, if I did dozens of oil changes a day, how many mistakes would I make? When I do one, it is done right.

 

Is there any justification why do you need to spend $465 for the 30K service? What is in there what can cost such amount of money?

 

When the price is that unreasonable it's usually because the dealer has added unnecessary services not required by the manufacturer. It's a good idea to go to the dealer with an exact list of what needs to be done and be sure he doesn't tack on extras.

 

I would definitely want to see an estimate or other detailed list of services to be performed for that $465. My Toyota dealer has always given me a list, up front, of what he thinks needs to be done or what will be done for any given service package. I've never said "Naw, skip that item" but it is nice to know what my money is being spent on.

 

Well, you could dig out your maintenance schedule and see... Anyway, the major items:

1. Engine oil and filter change.
2. Complete brake inspection (not just the visual inspection)
3. Replace engine air filter.
4. Replace cabin air filter. (if non-solar) (or just clean for solar)
5. Rotate tires.

It seems reasonable. Number 2 in particular, done thoroughly, takes time and effort.

2010 Prius Maintenance Schedule (US) | PriusChat

 

Doesn't worth $465 to me. Items 1,3,4,5 $70-100 max in most cases as DIY item. What is the difference between complete brake inspection and visual inspection at 30K milestone??? Will they measure brake pads and calipers with micrometer or what??? I wouldn't even do it with regular car at such low mileage, not speaking about hybrid...

 

Previous generations have gotten several hundred thousand miles on the brake pads with NO discernible wear. So the brake inspection is a snow job.

 

Would you recommend going to an Independant Service shop or stick with the Dealer and pay the higher labor rate?

 

Whichever gives you honest competent service. If you find more than one place that does that (good luck with that), pick the lower priced one. I'm not trying to be a smart arse here, some dealers are honest and competent and some independents aren't.

 

If you live in an area with salted roads or other causes of high corrosion the brakes should be inspected and lubed because of corrosion of the moving parts.

Fortunately you and I don't have to worry about that.

 

Nevertheless it's on the maintenance schedule.

 

Unfortunately the maintenance schedule doesn't take into consideration the differences in cohesiveness of different regions. It makes no sense for someone in a relatively dry non-freezing climate to pay for the same level of corrosion protection people in salted road country pay.

 

We have ice/salt on our roads here. It's eaten my truck alive since '99, but the wife's '09 Prius' brakes are pretty as a picture. Just did her 30k mile checkup a couple of months ago.

Everything was DIY. The cabin filter was full of silver maple seeds and other bits. Glad to get that thing changed. The air filter was dirty and needed changed. The oil & filter was the usual at 5k miles. The tire rotation was normal per 5k miles. Took an hour and a half. Cost was purchase prices.

Any time I have the tires off I inspect each tire/wheel combo for damage or punctures and alter air pressures as required. I also give the suspension and brakes a close inspection for anything out of the ordinary and give it a test drive.

$465 is about $400 too much.

 

Just Incredible!

 

So put yourself in the Service Writer's shoes:

Someone comes in, says his car is nearing 30,000 miles, and he'd like the required maintenance done. Do you get the schedule out, and write up the required maintenance?

Or do you say:

"Hang on, we're in California, it rarely rains here. And that's a Prius right? They never use the physical brakes: so we won't be doing that; what was Toyo thinking, lol?"

FWIW, I'm well overdue for brake inspection, by the Canadian schedule. Correct me if I'm wrong, my take is: the question in this thread is not the need for the various service items, just their cost.

 

It's too much by any standard. 30k miles is not like you just crossed the wilderness in your conestoga wagon.

4-5 hrs at $80-ish/hr labor? For a set of jobs that take less than 2, and they could probably do in 1? Especially if you're a mechanic with awesome tools/lifts and parts standing by? I think not.

If there's a question you can have the dealer itemize each item, costs, and labor amount, then the overall total, before you commit to that price. Ask a LOT of questions. Make them explain why this is of value to you.

Air filter and cabin air filter can be changed in 10 minutes.

Tire rotation with air tools and visual inspection, including air pressure adjustment, 30-45 minutes.

Oil change can be done while rotating tires. Even on it's own it's a .5 hr item.

Visually inspecting brakes is whatever they are selling. How deep in are they going? How much are they dismantling? How much of a scan are they giving the electronics?

However, if you were to give up on research, accept you aren't able to do the work or figure out if you're getting screwed, and simply trade that for your money...you wouldn't be the first.

 

Service writer creates a general guideline based on experience and a feedback. Local dealers, in many cases, trying to interpret general guidelines into a mandatory obligations. Instead of using a common sense and taking care of the customer, they are taking care of their own pockets! It is like that Camaro story, which was so popular a bit than a week ago. When chevy's mechanics purposely burned the clutch, and then tried to charge poor guy with repairing cost.

 

I recall that story, Mik1, are you by any chance as Snopester?

 

At the 30k service, I would also clean/lube/adjust the brakes. I would clean the slide pins and relube them with 3M #08946 silicone paste, and lube the area under the bracket clips with brake lube to prevent rust buildup, which will cause the pads to seize. For drum brakes, cleaning and adjustment is a good idea. I would expect to pay an hour for this.

Lastly, at 30k the transaxle fluid should be replaced, even though it is deemed lifetime fill. There are many threads about this in the Gen 2 forum. 3/4 hr + $5o parts for this one.