Parking brake malfunction...autopilot on, computer is self aware and trying to kill me!

If there is only one bad cell, I think you can replace it for a lot less than $4k if you are a DIY type person. If you are close to an independent Prius shop, you might be able to have them try swapping a known good ECU and see if that clears up the problem. If not, the shop might want your Gen 1 for parts for other customers.

 

From reading other somewhat similiar threads, you are much more likely to have a bad hv battery cell(s) than bad ecu. Consider easing up on the drama (its trying to kill me) and doing some research on the car and repair options.

 

You come here for advice and then rip into people? That gets you far in life? It is sad to read these post and all the complaints from people that say all these cars are crap because a repair is needed. Pay for your other vehicles fuel cost and compare it to the cost of a Prius. I have $4000 in my Prius and it is going to pay itself off in one year with fuel savings alone! Do the math before ripping people apart for helping you. Sorry you're broke and the end of the world is on you.
"Gas is over $4 a gallon and my tacoma 2.7 and 4runner 3.4 both get about 16mpg in town and I just can't afford to drive them anymore."

Sell one and use the money to fix a low mileage Prius! I have over 280,000 on mine and love it after I invested the money to fix it right and now the rewards.

 

Just a couple of suggestions:

1. Get a Prius aware scanner - at the low end, $150 Scangauge II and program in XGAUGES to read out Prius specific codes and data values. This will replace "so and so said" with facts and data. If you have a Windows laptop, ~$500 for AutoEnginuity would give you all of the functions pre-programmed.
2. Traction battery replacement costs - prices vary from ~$100 module replacement and your labor; ~$1,700 ReInvolt pack and your labor, and $2,300 Toyota + their labor.
3. ECU doesn't make sense but there is a Toyota TIS on it.

If you can contribute your labor and shop, you potentially have a very useful car. Absent a Prius aware scanner, no one knows. But 10 year old cars are likely to require significant repairs, it comes with the territory and explains the value of having a warranty.

Bob Wilson

 

Would the $29 techstream stuff on ebay do the trick ?

Single Cable 2012 Newest V7.1.030 MINI VCI for Toyota TIS Techstream Hot Sale | eBay

Any experience with this kit?

 

I don't have any direct experience. My understanding is a Chinese 'knock-off' of the TechStream-Lite adapter and there are . . . pirate-like versions of software around. I understand some folks have gotten it work but I'm not one who has even tried.

I did buy AutoEnginuity and their $500 package with the Toyota option works pretty good. More importantly, the developer continues to improve the product. So I would recommend that approach before dealing with pirated stuff.

Bob Wilson

ps. My problem with pirates is someone who would 'steal' for you would 'steal' from you.

 

Mine did the exact same thing when I bought it with a bad traction batter....rebuilt with Gen 2 cells no problem now... Get the EXACT codes toyota read and we'll get ya through this...when the aux battery or Traction pack have issues the whole cars gets funny... No worries though stay calm cool collected and we can help you fix this ,after for maybe less then $100 if you have some basic mechanical and electrical knowledge!


Have fun !

Eric

 

I have a suggestion...if the brake light is coming on on the dash, check the brake fluid level in the engine bay...it could be low. Mine was coming on until I found that it had dropped below a certain level. Top it off at the indicated level on the brake fluid reservoir and the light should stop coming on.

 

I'm having a really hard time understanding how the brake engages by itself???? The parking brake is mechanical. There is no way for it to "engage" by itself. Either way, I would not drive the car in its current condition.

As for your other complaints: You bought the car at an auction for $3000. What did you expect to get? Your expectations are severely unrealistic. Cars are auctioned for a reason. Its a chance you take. You gambled and lost. That's not Toyota's fault.

 

I'm pretty sure the OP really means the "BRAKE" light is coming on, not that a poltergeist is actually ratcheting the parking pedal down (though that would be really cool. Scary, but cool). But, as elecrontechnik pointed out, the BRAKE light comes on to warn of specific conditions described in the manual; it doesn't only mean the parking brake is engaged.

-Chap

 

Google returns this description under the copart.com search listing: Copart auctions used and salvage vehicles to auto parts dismantlers, rebuilders, used car dealers, wrecking yards, and the public for insurance and rental car ...

My interpretation is they sell junk. When one goes to a site that sells project cars one usually buys a project car.
Go to Toyota Owners Official Website: Service Coupons, Owners Manuals, Service Scheduling and More to register the VIN & get the dealer service history. When shopping for a vehicle, research first, buy second.

 

You bought a car from a salvage auction and won't spend the maximum $2000 for new battery. Yes, a Prius isn't happy without a working battery. Just like if you bought a TDI at auction with a broken fuel pressure regulator.

 

I picked up a 2001 Prius with a bad battery back in early September and drove it with the exact same symptoms you're describing. The BRAKE light comes on, it won't drive beyond 40MPH.... it's your car telling you that it's hurtin and you need to get me fixed soon. I drove it for a month like that. I picked up a rebuilt battery for $1,645 (actually more like $2k since I'm keeping the core) and replaced it in about an hour. Super simple and now for a $3800 total investment I have a dependable car that gets amazing gas mileage. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

My back did hurt for 2 days after though... It's a heavy one-person job.

P.S. Bob Wilson, it was your articles that gave me the info and confidence to yank out the old battery and put in the new one. I appreciate your wise words and attiude.

 

Comments inserted.
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So 9 months later and I did everything you guys have suggested.

I do not remember seeing any postings of NHW11 codes or traction battery metrics, something a Prius-aware scanner would accomplish. Also, I don't see using TIS or references to the two volume Maintenance manual. These are part of my standard recommendations.

I took it to a HV battery specialist here in Washington who specializes in reconditioning HV batteries. He located the bad cells and replaced them with working cells. This did not fix the problem.

Perhaps you might invite him to join us here and share what he found?

Now its looking like an inverter, ecu, tranny and who knows what else.

What are the Prius codes and OBD metrics?

Apparently one of the cells had arced, caught on fire and the dealer lied. It was 6 bad cells.

How did you diagnose this? Do you have photos?

Now I've got thousands spent on repairs with no working vehicle. I should have driven this thing straight into the ocean. It is a lost cause and I am out the price of a higher mileage 2nd gen. This is by far the biggest money pit I've ever had the displeasure of dealing with. I appreciate the advice but none of it worked . . .

It would help if you could share some of what was suggested. In particular, getting a Prius-aware scanner and sharing the codes and metrics.

. . . and I feel like there needs to be a class action lawsuit against Toyota for deceptive marketing. Oh what a feeling! Complete disgust! **** Prius I and every one on the road. Ticking time bombs waiting to murder your whole family.

A used Prius is not for everyone and the older NHW11 requires some mechanical skill, a Prius-aware scanner, and the diagnostic information. These are not things that can be outsourced cheaply.

I should have bought a TDI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sounds like we probably agree.

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Bob Wilson