What services you need and what you don't

When you say "Timing Belt", do you mean the serpentine drive belt that powers the engine coolant pump?

Any coolant seeping from the engine coolant pump? If yes then you may want to replace that soon.

The inverter coolant and engine coolant should be replaced at 100K miles. Also consider replacing the PCV valve.

Check the front brake pad thickness (especially the inner pads as they may wear faster than the outside pads) and pull the rear brake drums so that you can look at the rear shoe thickness.

Although the inverter coolant pump for your model year isn't covered under the LSC, you may want to consider a preventive replacement since the pump is not very expensive and if you DIY, your out-of-pocket cost will be around $100 or so (pump plus a gallon of Toyota SLLC).

If your AC system is cooling nicely then you can probably defer any work there.

 

Correct on the belt! That's what I meant, just didn't know the specific name for it!

No coolant that I can see!

I'll get Toyota to replace the inverter coolant pump fluid, as I had them do the Transaxle and they only charge around $45!

I'll take a look into the PCV Valve, and I forgot to mention that I've replaced the front brake pads already (oops). I'll give the rear shoes a look this weekend when I replace the 12 volt.

My AC is still cooling pretty well, unless it's over 90 degree F. Then it doesn't cool too well unless I'm moving, but I think that's a pretty basic concept on any car.

 

This is very helpful information. Mine is a 2006 Prius with about 120k miles. I posted yesterday asking for advice to dispute with the automotive shop was recommending, and was pointed to this thread. Haved printed off and saved for future visits - to a new mechanic next time, I might add.

 

Toyota dealership just quoted me $880 for a 90k service. What does that include? Basically changing all fluids. Give me a break! Think I'll keep on changing my own motor oil and call it a day.

 

HI there--I live in Florida; my 2008 is five years old--and it only has barely 15, 600 miles! I have had to replace the 12V secondary battery. My dealer keeps bugging me to get my 15,000 or 30,ooo mile service, andI have put him off. Anything specific recommended for me? And just checking, the regularity of oil changes? thanks!!!

 

1. Change engine oil/oil filter annually. Although you only drive 3K miles per year the reason to change the oil annually is to get rid of water condensation.

2. Use a 12V battery charger monthly, or use a battery minder continually to keep the 12V battery charged up.

3. With such light usage, the exhaust system needs to be checked for corrosion and the brake system needs to be checked to ensure the front pads are wearing evenly. That can be done by any decent mechanic.

4. You don't really need the 30K mile service (which would imply engine and cabin air filter replacement and more extensive checks.) However you might want to check those filters yourself to make sure there are no problems such as rodents building a nest, etc.

5. If part of the reason that the car logs such low miles is because it is stored during a portion of the year, raise tire inflation up before the car is stored, at max tire inflation pressure per the tire sidewall (typically 44 psi.) That will help reduce the likelihood of the tires developing flat spots. Also, the car should be made READY for one hour, once per month, to keep the traction battery charged up. (The car does not actually have to be driven during that one hour period.)

 

Thanks! Please advise regarding 12 V battery charging-----the car is nOT stored-I simply do not drive that much................

I will probably want to sell the vehicle myself when the next ones arrive--in 2015--have no idea what to charge.....-any idea of a two-seater??

 

As I previously suggested, it would be helpful to fully-charge your 12V battery monthly, to help its longevity. Considering your very light usage, the battery is spending all of its time partially discharged which will reduce its capacity and ultimate service life.

 

I have a 2004 NHW20 second hand PRIUS imported from Japan. The problem is I live in Mongolia, extreme weather condition, -35 to -40 degrees Celsius in the winter. And it's really hard to find a garage in this time of the year in Mongolia, just using a thick car cover which doesn't have any heating or warming system. So I'm worried about two things: 1. Driving without warming up the car. 2. In such cold weather car battery and motor works ok? Want to make car battery and everything of my car last long. Thanks in advance.

Read more: http://priuschat.com/f/gen-ii-prius-main-forum.22/create-thread#ixzz2ETZg9jsp

 

I would at least warm up the car before driving: turn the car READY and leave it in Park until you hear the sound of the engine changes and the MFD shows that the charging of the HV battery has just stopped. In this way you avoid adding stress to the HV battery (driving right away would demand large currents from the HV battery during the initial warm up stage, when the engine does not provide any drive power). Good luck!

 

I'm nearing my 100,000 mile mark and want to drain and fill my transaxle fluid.

So I just called the two closest Toyota dealers and one wanted $400 and the other wanted $300.

I have to figure out what it'll cost me to do it myself and see if the difference in cost makes it worth doing that way.

 

I'm getting ready to do this DIY project too. From what I have read it's obvious it is a simple drain and refill job not worth any more than $100 charge. It's very similar to an oil change without the filter replacement. Certainly not worth $300-400.

 

Transaxle fluid replacement is not as easy as it sounds but its not hard either. The hardest part is unscrewing the drain and fill port plugs. Mine took a lot of torque to remove (due to aluminum corrosion). I recommend spraying them with WD 40 or similiar solvent 2-3 times for a day or 2 leading up to the service. It is tough to get them out b/c you're using an allen wrench in a tight spot.

 

You can get a 10mm hex wrench type bit, but mounted on a 3/8" socket drive. You can put that on a breaker bar for loosening, and on a torque wrench when re-installing.

(I'm a little fuzzy on 2nd gen: at least one of the bolts is 10mm hex socket head, isn't it? And the other is a conventional bolt head?)

 

Here's the info for the transaxle fluid change. The $200-$300 charge is for the flush service (Non-Prius) vehicles. Got that price when I asked about mine being done. (Told I know its just a drain and add, they came back at $85-$90.) Fluid is about $9 a quart, (You'll need 4 quarts). Did it my self for 1/2 the price, used the saved money to buy a nice dinner.
Link for Transaxle change: Changing Transaxle oil | Page 15 | PriusChat
I've attached a PDF to my post.
All and all less than 30 minutes it's almost as easy as an typically oil change.

 

re: the car should be made READY for one hour, once per month, to keep the traction battery charged up

1. what do you mean by making it READY???

2. Do you have a link which shows where the secondary battery terminals are located--I think they are located close to the windshield--?

Thanks!

 

1. After you have successfully started the Prius, when you look at the dashboard you will see "READY". That means the car is ready to be driven. Leave the car in that condition for one hour. It is not necessary to actually drive the car unless you want to go somewhere.

2. Open the hood. Find the main relay/fuse box located on the driver's side of the engine compartment, between the inverter and the fender. The box is several inches behind the driver's headlight.

Press hard on the latch on the front of the box lid with a finger, then pivot up the box lid and remove it. Find a red plastic hinged cover within the box, and release the latch to pivot the red cover up. Now the positive jump start terminal is exposed.

For the negative jump start connection, use one of the bare metal nuts that holds the front suspension strut to the strut tower, behind the main relay/fuse box.

Make sure you observe correct battery polarity (red to red or positive; black to black or negative.) If you incorrectly jump start the Prius you may destroy the inverter which will lead to a healthy four-digit repair bill.

 

My prius just reached 100,000 miles and has not needed much other than oil changes, windshield wipers, tires, 12V battery, and a new belt. I was wondering if I should have my engine coolant flushed or drained and refilled. You mentioned in your first post to have it just drained because damage can occur. Is there still a worry about damage occurring if a dealer is doing the flushing?

Do I also need to get the transaxle fluid replaced as well?

I believe I had the inverter pump replaced due to a recall. When they replaced it, would they have replaced the inverter fluid as well. Should I have the inverter fluid replaced as well?

How easy is it to DIY for these replacements? Could a trusted mechanic who doesn't normally work on hybrids do any of these without worry about damage?

Any help/advice is appreciated.

 

It is not necessary to have the engine coolant flushed. A drain and refill is sufficient. However the presence of the coolant heat recovery system canister makes the engine coolant replacement process more than trivial. A mechanic unfamiliar with hybrids may not know how 1) to run the engine continually in inspection mode or 2) how to get all of the air out of the system given the presence of the canister. For that matter, some dealer techs seem to have trouble with that, given some posts from PC members.

Yes, the transaxle ATF and inverter/transaxle coolant also should be replaced. The inverter/transaxle coolant was supposed to be replaced in the recall process. You may want to check your service invoice to see whether it explicitly indicates the coolant replacement, or not.

I, and others, have posted regarding how to DIY this work.