Rearview Camera

It does looks like you don't have a 12V source on your camera, just 6.5V. If the camera blacks out and sometime you have kinda grayish color on your screen - you need to make sure that you have 12V source. The flow in both diodes is the same and they just make sure that the electricity flows in one direction. The reason why we have two power sources is because the aftermarket cameras are rated for 12V (in most cases); however, HU only gives 6.5V - which is not enough for AM camera and that is why your picture is not clear. HU's power is required to feel the camera and give the signal back to the HU that the camera is installed, the reverse bulb power source is a continuous power source for the camera's operation. That is why on the diagram the flow of both diodes is shown as from the power source to the camera.

 

maybe that was the problem need to try again

 

can someone post a picture of the cables connected to the diodes?

 

I tested the camera before I installed it and the power is running at 12v. It's strange, I installed it on Saturday, and only had the problem on Saturday.

The picture is crystal clear and has been fun to play around with.

 

Thanks so much! I have a few questions though.

1. Do I have to solder anything in order to accomplish this? I very much want to avoid that for many reasons... (a) I don't know how, (b) I don't have a soldering iron (probably expensive), and (c) I want everything to be reversible.

2. Could anyone post a list of everything I need before I start? Things like components, tools, taps, crimp pins, etc. I have do *some* electronics experience, such as building my computer and adding some relatively simple mods to my 2007 Prius (Auto Door Lock, EV Mode, Power Outlet Mod). However, I barely have any tools at all (just some screwdrivers and a tape measure), and there's all sorts of low-level details that I don't have any experience with...

Thanks in advance!

 

Muhahahahaz you don't have to solder if you don't know how, but it will make your job done in better way. Soldering iron is inexpensive, I've got mine from RadioShack for less than 10 dollars and it had tin and all stuff required for work. As an option you can buy a wire glue (soldering glue); however, I've never tried anything like that and don't know how good it is. In any circumstances everything is reversible, since you do not cut any on board wiring.
As for the list, you can find such info with links in the write up. But in general you need:
1. Camera (plus extra couple feet [10-12] of wire in order to run the power from the reverse light
2. Crimp pins
3. Diodes
4. Electrical tape
5. Something to pull the wires (I used trimmer line)
6. Screwdriver to take the HU out and small pliers to crimp your pins
7. Needle or something equal to open a small plastic lock on the connector G79 and push the crimped wires (video, power) into their respective locations
7. Couple of hours of your time
8. Patience

 

That's Great! Happy that everything worked out for you

 

How was running the wiring from the back to the front for you guys? Was it relatively pain-free to run the wires cleanly and hide them?

 

All plastic panels and door scuff plates will not take more than 5-10 mins to take off. When you will take the door scuff plates off (I used the driver's side) you will see a wire harness there and that's where I put my wires as well. The most time consuming and difficult part is pulling the wires through the rubber housing in the left upper corner of the trunk door.

 

Yeah, that last bit with the rubber housing was a pain in the butt... Running the wires from the head unit to the rubber housing took about 5 minutes. Fishing it through that rubber housing took about 45 minutes.

 

A small piece of coat hanger works wonders to pull wires through the rubber housing.

-M

 

Dear Mik1 - don't see the write up. Where is it?

 

Mik1's write up is on post #110. ​

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-M​

 

Sorry, I did not take a picture of that...I did follow Mik1's diagram exactly, except I reversed the direction of the diode coming from the back up light 12V.

-M

 

Any one have any idea if this will work for a 2012 lift back with out navigation. It has the 6.1 screen but no Nav and no backup camera. Thanks any input would be great

 

It will be helpful to see the terminals on the back of your HU. If you have 16 pins G79 (aka L111 for liftback and L37 for V) connector then you can do it. Otherwise I can not say it for sure.
The rest of the process is the same. It seems that if you have L111 connector the power will be the same on pin #7 i.e. 6.5V+ and in that case if you will go with AM camera you need to source 12V+ power supply to your camera.

 

I went to test drive a Prius C a week ago at a dealership called Right Toyota in Scottsdale, AZ. I test drove a C4 (Softex still gets too hot in an Arizona summer to be advisable , BTW). The dealer had installed a backup cam in the car! I backed out, and it worked very well.

I haven't read through this whole thread, but I know it can be done.

 

W

Wow really? I don't think they went through the install other guys had to do? More plug in play I would think for the dealer to do it? How much did they charge for that upgrade on the sticker?

 

I believe the upgrade cost $600 on the sticker on the door (or $599). I don't know if they'd do it for a Prius bought elsewhere, but one could ask if they could make it out to Scottsdale. I must say that it worked pretty seamlessly.

 

So does one you install yourself for about $50.00-$75.00...$600.00 seems a bit steep..

-M