Suitcase combo lock through the hole that is already there in the silver part of the blue handle. No its not foolproof but it may deter someone. If you get one make sure it has a 1/8" shank or smaller. I had to use an 1/8" drill bit to enlarge the hole probably 1/16 th. this solution seemed obvious to me. I use it every time On Amazon, $5 free shipping with Prime Amazon.com: Master Lock 647D Set-Your-Own Combination Luggage Lock, 1-3/16-Inch: Home Improvement
I just made a new extension cable. I had a 20-foot 15A cable ($1/foot) cut at Home Despot, which is the same gauge as the charging cable. There I bought a good set of 15A plug and connector by Pess & Seymour (red box, $7.99 each) which light up when connected. I take it with me wherever I go, but admittedly it does take up room in the "spare tire box".
you can also buy 25' 14AWG extenion cords... I have also bought 25' 12AWG from Harbor Freight as well, of course all of their stuff is made in China. 25 Ft. x 14 Gauge Outdoor Extension Cord
Same here, that's the exact same one bought from the same place. Got my normal 20% off and a free flashlight as well.
This thread started out as extra charging cable, which got my attention, then evolved into a extension cable. An extension cable is simple but where do get the portion that plugs into the car and on the other end the block, which is the leak detector and reset, etc. Your home electric stove doesn't have all this safety and it draws a lot more amps. An extra cable would be nice. An extension cable is easy.
Andyprius, you can build one with the OpenEVSE project for about $500-$600, or you can buy one for $800-$900 (or more for the Toyota factory cable), but they are very pricey until the volume of EVs being produced/sold picks up a lot... Even the least expensive J-1772 male head on eBay is $135, and thats without the attached wiring. eBay J-1772 head, you could buy 10/3 (good for 30A max) or 12/3 (good for 20A max) SJO/SWO (jacketed) cable to connect to this (2 hots + groun for 240V or its 1 hot, neutral and ground for 120V), and use a separate 18-22AWG insulated wire taped to it for the "pilot" signal wire, that would be the least expensive way to get the J-1772 connector/cable part of the project: Electric Vehicle Plug J1772 Compliant | eBay OpenEVSE project, example of the one I built (which btw might be for sale, I need to build a 75A version) EVSE_by_mwolrich - open-evse - A portable EVSE built with an Open EVSE board. - Open Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE) - Google Project Hosting
I got the Volt's EVSE and it does NOT work with the Prius plug in. Electronic timing is off. It is also poorly made. I am very disappointed since it only cost $360. Ended up getting a level 2 from Home Depot. Won't be portable but I will use the level 2 at work and take the well built Panasonic (toyota's) with me if I travel.
The idea of adding a luggage lock and securing it thru the little hole in the charging cable is not so bad, but you have to remember that it's still plastic, which can easily be broken. A little leverage will break the plastic. I want to buy a steel cable and thread it thru that hole or around the whole cable below the plug. Then secure that cable to a lock.
I am no expert by any means, but I don't think it's a good Idea to park on the cable, over time I would think it could damage the cable. Check out http://john1701a. His web site has a good locking option!
I didn't mean mashing the cable, just a little weight on the edge. How ever, for the long term it isn't a "best answer" I agree.
I'm curious. Why would you need a 2nd one? If you keep yours in the car, in the back, where it belongs and the car is needed to be charged, pull it out. Why an extra?
Because you want to leave one at home always hooked up to power? And not have to pull it out constantly?