Please help me with a strategy

As I think I posted in another thread, yes, the '12 is a midcycle refresh and the included equipment w/each level has changed. See Toyota Vehicles : Toyota Announces Prices for 2010 Prius / Toyota (USB isn't mentioned there) vs Exclusive: 2012 MY Prius - Changes and Additions | PriusChat.

It is incorrect that the '12 Prius 2 includes a backup camera. Either the info was wrong or Toyota changed their mind. Examples of changes:
On the '10 and '11, if you wanted Bluetooth phone support, you needed to go with model III/Three at min. If you wanted Bluetooth A2DP music streaming (and phone support) along w/USB, on '10 and '11, you had to go w/model III/Three at min AND buy at least the nav package. On '12 Prius 2, BT, BT A2DP and USB are all included.

On '10 and '11, you had to go to model IV/Four or above to get 3-door SKS (2 front doors + hatch). Trims below it had only 1-door SKS (driver's door only)./ On '12, you get 3-door SKS on model Three or above.

What I've typed out isn't complete. See the URLs.

Obviously the '10 has less remaining warranty. See Toyota Prius Warranty and Coverage for terms. Make sure that '10 was purchased, registered and operated in CA or CARB states so that you get the full 10 year/150K mile HV battery warranty and other warranty benefits. You can see what I'm talking about by downloading the warranty booklet at Toyota Online Owners Manuals and Technical Manuals. Select 2010 Prius in upper right.

 

If you are a member, go to AAA Home to build a car & get up to 3 dealer quotes. You'll see MSRP & invoice prices. You are in a good position now as gas prices are declining which should slow down sales. There are 2 or 3 (I forget) stages of 2010 production. Late production cars have a USB port in the armrest & Toyota's Safety Connect on the ceiling. Is it a base IV, nav, or solar? Anyway, it has to have leather seats. If it has fog lights it's a V.

Read New car buying guide, avoiding dealer scams, new cars, used car buying.

 

^^^
Yep, re: USB and Safety Connect. Early '10s couldn't come with it (from the factory) at all.

Official posts at More on USB/Safety Connect | PriusChat and USB and Safety Connect Are Almost Here! | PriusChat.

 

You know what your sales tax rate is. See What Fees Should You Pay? - Edmunds.com re other stuff.

From
Toyota Dealerships - New & Used Car Deals & Special Offers | BuyAToyota.com

(zip code 90024), I don't see any incentives. You can lookup the invoice price and destination charge at Edmunds.com.

If there are no incentives (possible places to check: New Car Rebates, Cash Back, Special Financing & Lease Rates and Toyota Incentives and Rebates), I personally wouldn't expect them to go lower than invoice and cut into their holdback (Dealer Holdback - Edmunds.com).

I think that you'll find most/all of them unfortunately come w/floor mats and cargo net. Some might also come w/rear bumper applique and illuminate door sills. All of these cost extra of course. Just keep that in mind.

If buying new, do NOT fall prey to them pushing stuff on you like extended warranties (better deal can be had here, if you really want it), maintenance packages, rustproofing, VIN etching, etc. The F&I guy will try pushing these on you. I've been in the room before w/a VERY high pressure pushy F&I person (helping someone else buy a car). I've never received such high pressure tactics in the 3 cars I've bought new...

 

In addition to Costco, AAA, are you a member of a credit union? If so do they have a auto buying service? I've bought two cars through CUAB which is affiliated with my FCU. This time their dealer could not find the Prius I wanted (different state) so mine was by AAA referral.

If I lived in So. Cal I would try Dianne @ Carson. 2617 Miles was too far for me to travel (one-way)

Bottom line --for me -- I would buy new. I keep my cars until they can't be driven anymore so depreciation is not an issue. Can't beat feeling of brand new.

 

You might try hitting the dealership near the end of the month, when they may be struggling to meet sales goals. Also, someone else mentioned AAA. I actually used them to search for the car I wanted and to make the purchase for me. No dealing with the sales people for me, except for the test drive at a dealership where they told me I could expect to pay $2,000 more than the sticker price. I walked, and AAA got the car, from another dealer, for under sticker and delivered it to my home within a couple of days. It was right off the truck and had not been test driven. They handled the trade-in, sight unseen and real close to the book value, and found me 2% financing. They brought the new car to me, went over all the paperwork for me to sign and drove off in my old car. They did every bit of the work. I spent 15 minutes with the paperwork instead of half a day at a dealership. I'd definitely go that route again, but it may not be for everyone. It's free if you're a AAA member.

 

From my experience:

Step 1: Get quotes via Costco, AAA, Truecar, whatever. This will generate quotes and, importantly, get you in contact with the internet/fleet sales person. These people are often less high pressure/buy now types, and are easier to negotiate with.

Step 2: See Dianne in SoCal's pricing, and see how far off you are.

Step 3: Visit the low price sales rep, and let him/her know that you can buy at a MUCH better price out of market (but no need to say which market). Say you'd rather deal locally, but you will travel to save $1000 (or more). See what they say.

Step 4: Rinse and repeat with another dealer.

Step 5: Make your best deal, and then learn to say no when you get the high pressure sales pitch from the "finance" guy.

 

Even "dealer cost" is not entirely accurate.

My deal came in at under dealer cost, but they make it back and more in holdbacks and other incentives for Toyota.

 

Try the Costco way if you're a member.
It was extremely close to the lowest I could get mine for.
In my area right now gas prices are coming down regularly.
When I bought earlier this year gas prices had been on the steady rise.
That was during the Iran blockade deal.
I would have loved to have the conditions you have now.
Find a number you're happy with and go with it.
My local dealer would not hit my number.
My first number was ludicrous.
I adapted and changed it.
I went home, emailed 10 different dealers within 200 miles with my number and said my finger's on the trigger.
Within 20 minutes I got phone calls from 3 that had the number +/- $20.
Took the closest with the best deal and never looked back.

Don't try to out-think one of the largest corporations on the planet.
Buy a nice car in the color you like, for a price you're happy with, and go have fun with it.

 

Have you tried kbb.com or edmunds.com?

 

In theory, it should be invoice price minus holdback and any incentives.

 

First of all, you will love your Prius

Second, please do yourself a favor and get the package 3. Price difference should be about $1000 but you get Navi and Back-up cameras (plus others). You definitely need a back-up camera!

Talk to David Matinez at DCH Torrance Toyota. They usually have the lowest price in town. Dianne is good but could not really get close to DCH Torrance prices. I got mine from him (you can say you were referred by Eugene)

Good luck!

 

^^^
As much as I love having a nav system in my 06 Prius and not having to take out and put away my Garmin Nuvi device (was intended my former other car that had no nav), OEM nav systems are way expensive and updates aren't cheap. The price that Toyota and most OEMs charge for updates is enough to buy 1 or 2 new Garmin devices.

It seems there are MANY complaints about the nav the Toyota switched to in the '12 Prius. A number of folks who had previous gen Toyota nav systems (from 2nd gen Priuses and '10 Priuses) feel the new ones are a step backwards.

 

Three ARE many Nav complaints, but I have found no reason to complain. Works fine, accurate. Makes you enter things when not moving, which I think is safer.

 

OP might want to read "Confessions of a Car Salesman" Updated for 2009 - Edmunds.com.

The thing is, the lockout when moving was there on the 2nd gen and 2010-2011 nav systems. Some folks have upgraded from the above vehicles w/nav to the '12 are complaining bitterly, so I doubt it has anything to do w/the lockout since it was there all along.

 

I don't know what YOU like or want so I'll quickly run down features from my POV.

3 door SKS--very handy. Had it in the 2006 & wasn't going to downgrade. If you are the only one in the car & you only use the driver door then it doesn't matter.

USB--radio reception is not good. I'm not going to pay for radio. Changing CDs is a PITA. Be the Program Director & put whatever you want to listen to on a thumbdrive. You can go for days without a repeat. Pull the radio & CD from the car but don't touch my USB port. Maybe there should be more than 1.

auto dim mirror is nice. Pretty useless if you don't drive at night.

Leather--the @$$ warmer is good especially before the ICE is warmed up. Why burn gas to try to heat the entire interior when you can burn electricity to heat your torso? The colder it is the bigger the benefit but pretty useless if you live in Miami or Hawaii.

I use a nuvi & Toyota's GPS. They are about equal. I prefer the nuvi's position tucked in the little window behind the vent. The nuvi has lots of data I don't use but won't show the name of the current street. Toyota's does. Very useful in a rally. If you don't go anywhere new the nav's a waste.

Safety Connect is mostly a comfort thing. I've used it to alert police to collisions & disabled vehicles. If you are stuck on the side of the road or blocking traffic would you want someone to try to help you?

All the avionics in the AT package. Very useful except for self parking. Prevent or minimize a collision & the package just paid for itself. Forget about damage to sheet metal. What's no whiplash worth? How much would you pay if you could eliminate a herniated disk?

LED headlights are much brighter & whiter than halogens. Won't go back.

I have bluetooth but don't have a bluetooth phone. Don't have a garage door opener.

Solar roof. Don't have one. Don't want one. Others love them.

If spending the least amount of money is the most important then buy a Base Two. You're getting all of the fuel economy without the expensive gizmos.

There are Port Installed Options, accessories, & dealer add-ons.

Fitted floor mats are nice. They're in the garage. I use rubber mats year round.

The cargo net is useful, especially if you take corners fast.

Get protective film installed by an indy shop. More coverage & cheaper. Your paint will thank you unless the car is an exhibit in a museum.