three dreaded symbols, red n black infocenter car and fan noise

So I perused this sit and the web these past 2 days for answers. I became reasonably sure it was the traction batt. but since my small batt. was old and tested borderline, I went and got a drop in Optima replacement for my 06, 135,000 mile prius II. 10 miles into the post install test drive, thinking I was out of the woods for "only" 150 bucks, all the stuff lit up again, and the fan in the back was heard for the first time, My ques, is: should I go get it diagnosed by an independent (preferably) or go to a dealer, or just buy an 08? or newer from a salvage yard. I will keep this car as long as I can. Not planning to fix and sell.

 

It is exactly as you described. What is DTC and how far can I drive it to get checked? I will be swapping out the big$ batt. in my driveway after/during soaking up info from here and youtube

 

Thanks for the info fellas, have deciced to park it at the bottom of the drive until I get a battery. I will be perusing ebay, nationwide, depending on shipping cost and thesalvage lots and Craigslist in app. 300 mile radius (N.O., Birmingham, Atl., Tallahassee or thereabouts). Any suggestions on sourcing and possible installation guides would be appreciated, Just filled up the K5 for the first time in years. It had a quarter tank and still took almost 80 bucks to fill at 3.21/gal. I do not miss those days!

 

Wow, nice site. When I saw what a subscription cost I figured out why. Very steep for a broke college student Any cheaper guide out there just for this task? Also is there a shopping/wish list for tools and equipment to recondition/charge/balance the battery?

 

Has anyone had experience wit a website called: Prius Hybrid Battery Rebuild ?

 

Well my used battery came in and the swap was made to the point that the replacement battery is in and hooked up. Most bolts holding it down are not in place prior to energizing vehicle for testing. Test complete. It is as if I did nothing. Questions are- Do all bolts have to be in and tight? Doubtful but remotely possible. Bad Replacement Battery? Need scanguage to perform some type of reset of the system? Something else entirely?

 

12v battery was the first to get disconnected prior to removal of o.e. battery. Safety plug locked in place. Will pull plug, remove cover and replace plug and check voltage downstream. That stated, it is acting like no work performed.

 

Upon removing service cover I saw one of the 3 plugs was not locked into place. Reconnected, disconnected 12V batt. at pos. terminal, drinking a cup of tea and crossing fingers prior to round 2.

 

No change in results. With car on, there is no voltage on the downstream terminals. probably due to the fact that is either how the system works, or works when all the warning lights are on?

 

Do the computers on the vehicle need to be reprogrammed to "talk" to one another if the HV battery pack gets swapped?