I do not believe you are correct. In my installation, for example, my EVSE is attached to an outdoor socket. Per electrical code, this socket must be ground fault protected. I chose to do this using a ground fault-protected breaker, but I could have protected the outlet instead. It would not pass inspection to tell them the EVSE is protected, because someone could unplug the EVSE and plug in a lawn mower or anything else. What is the harm that can happen with multiple GFCI circuits in line?
Ditto this. It's just that the cheapy push in type receptacles abound. IMHO, using one of these is way riskier than not using a GFI unit in your garage.
The charger is built into the Prius. I'm assuming you are referring to is the charging cordset or EVSE and that you mean GFCI, not GCCI. So the answer is yes, the EVSE has a CCID (Charge Circuit Interrupting Device) which is an internal GFCI. I did find a Siemens EVSE datasheet that warned against using a GFCI with their EVSE, but I believe that warning is for hardwired EVSEs, not a portable EVSE like the one provided with the Prius Plug-in.
yeah i don't know for how long the NEC code has specified GFCI in garages and outdoor locations, but i'm sure it's quite a while now. lots and lots of people have GFCI outlets in their garages. if there were some real, inherent harm in plugging the EVSE into a GFCI-protected circuit i'm sure that Toyota's lawyers would have required a big huge notice on the EVSE packaging warning against plugging into such a circuit. here's the first hit out of google regarding multiple GFCIs... Are Multiple GFCI's a problem?
There are two big huge notices on the EVSE cable, and they're tough to remove, too. They say all kinds of stuff about dangerous things and getting killed and burning down your house and blowing up your car. I don't know what it said about GFCI, though, because I didn't actually read the stupid things, I just cut them off and threw them away. Was I supposed to read them?
The tag has things such as the warning about not using extensions cords, checking for plugs and such getting hot, care when using in wet areas, and recommending using an GFCI outlet.
Here's the truth: The thing is simply a 120V, 13 Amp power cord with several redundant safety switches. If it were dangerous to use, they wouldn't sell it. I'll remember not to stand in a bucket of water while holding it (Although I truly believe you could plug it in and safely put the handle in a bucket if water, I won't anyway). The need for a dedicated circuit is obvious.
(i typed this up the other night, walked away and never sumitted... forgive me if someone has covered this in that amount of time. i also added a few bits) a huge problem is that a lot of people pass the wires through the outlet to feed another outlet. they are supposed to be wired as one huge line with little short pieces ("pig tails" as lingo) that feed each outlet. this keeps gfi's and such working properly at all times. otherwise the outlet is like a fuse.... if it was wired right, there would have been less resistance and all current would have bypassed the outlet instead of making it into a fuse. (there could also be a wiring issue where you're running 14 gauge somewhere and not 12 gauge (15amp lines use 14 while 20amp lines use 12... you should only be using 20amp lines and outlets.) also.. make sure your outlets are grounded properly. usually all grounds secure to the box and then the "pig tail" wire feeds the outlet. test a line before you pull the plug out.. or even pulling the plate off ***ALWAYS*** test both upper and lower socket because there are pins on the side you can break off that allows for a separate circuit to exist on each plug. a non led/cfl lamp is a cheap test; if you do have faulty lines, it may still glow dim showing there is electricity but not a lot. a volt meter is best and recommeneded for standard use with any electrical projects. people like me and a few listed above don't fear electricity. flipping a breaker simply takes more time! (joke of sorts) the push in connectors are simply that.. push in... once in, they lock grip. the screw is for attaching wires. it's preferred by good contractors that the push in connectors are never used. only attach wires with the screws... once done, wrap the entire outside the outlet with electrical tape to make sure and cover the screws and open wires. 3 layers are minimal. (standard practice just in-case the face place breaks off, it's still safe to have your hands around) if you push the wires in (by choice or not) still screw down the screws because they are electrical and it's dangerous to have them out. oh.. my last point... NEVER think you're safe when it comes to an outlet till you know it's off. just because you're touching only 1 side means nothing. if you touch the hot, you'll get zapped 90% of the time... period. another random bit... make sure there are no lights (ceiling) connected to that line.. if there is, it can't be 20 amp because lights only handle 15 and becomes the weak point. also make sure everything on that line is either 20 amp rated or 15 amp rated and never mixed (i kinda mentioned it above) (maybe i'll make a video tutorial... hmm...)
the lights in this garage are on a separate circuit, so that's good for many reasons (would have been pretty hard to work with no light). so you are saying that the screws on the side of the push-in connector do nothing if you use the push-in hole? because i swear that it all became a heck of a lot tighter (and the wires were impossible to pull out) once i tightened down the screws. clearly my house was built by guys rushing thru it... i have not inspected any of the non-gfci outlets to see how the wiring is done. it could be that only the GFCI has the push-in and so they used it there.
Yes, the J1772 EVSEs have a GFCI equivalent built into them but they don't call it by that name. I'm not aware of any National Electric Code (NEC) prohibition on chaining together multiple GFCIs or prohibitions on doing that from GFCI manufacturers in their installation instructions. Where is your information coming from? Yes, it would normally be silly to chain GFCI sockets in permanent wiring but doesn't mean that you must not ever do it in any circumstance because some unspecified bad thing will happen.
I know that manufacturers of surge protectors and battery backup systems are really adamant that they should not be daisy chained. The way these devices work, they can severely deform the normal AC sine wave, causing similar devices downstream to trip or otherwise get confused, whereas the intended load (computer, TV, whatever) will accept the deformations. The APC web site has a white paper on this. So I wonder if there is some confusion between the warnings on those devices, and the totally unrelated GFCI devices.
why are we arguing this? toyota recommends plugging the evse into a dedicated gfci outlet. peroiod. end of story.
