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02 front wheel bearing

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by bigblock67, Mar 24, 2011.

  1. bigblock67

    bigblock67 433K with new cells

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    Where is the best deal on a front bearing? Is there a video or detailed on doing this job?
    Thanks Don
     
  2. trseven

    trseven Junior Member

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    I bought mine at Rock Auto online. Paid just over $30 I think, and they were Timken brand. Here is a run down of what needs to be done:
    Put the front up on jackstands, pull the tire off, the axle nut has a outer ring that gets bent into a slot in the axle shaft to keep the nut from coming off. You'll need to bend this back out to remove the nut. It's a 30mm socket. Have someone press on the brake and remove or just loosen the axle nut. Then remove the caliper, there are 2 bolts, don't get these confused with the 2 on the caliper. Remove the caliper and then the brake rotor. Then in any order you like, there are 2 bolts on top that bolt to the strut, keep track of the positions, I scratched a T in the top one. The tie rod end needs to be pressed out. Some people use pickle forks but there is always the chance of tearing up the boot. I used a tool that hooks around and presses on the shaft, leave the nut on to center the press. Could probably use a small bearing puller. After that the last thing left is two bolts and one nut on the bottom support arm. After all that is off you'll probably need a wheel/bearing puller to press the axle shaft out of the wheel assembly. After you have the wheel off you'll need to press the center shaft with the hub on it out. Then there is a snap ring on the back to retain the bearing. Remove that and press the bearing out the back. The new bearing comes as an assembly. No greasing, when you press it back in remember to just press on the outside, and when you press the hub back in to support the center. Don't forget the snap ring. Reassemble, I always use anti-seize. Makes them a lot easier to remove it you ever have to do it again. Last thing is having someone hold the brake and torquing the axle nut to 159 foot pounds, then use a small punch and bend the lip back down in the slot to secure. Put the tire back on and you're done. I can pull the other torque specs on the other bolts if you need them.
    Good luck!

    Gerry
     
  3. tochatihu

    tochatihu Senior Member

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    Excellent work description trseven; you're hired!

    How long since you did the beaings? Eveything feels good after? Do you suggest that the alignment might need to be inspected after the work?

    Please feel free to write up any other Prius DIY work you have done :)
     
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  4. trseven

    trseven Junior Member

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    Its been about a month ago since I replaced the bearings. I probably could have got by with replacing just one but I could swear the noise was coming from the drivers side! Though I did stumble across a way to determine which side is the problem. When I started the job I thought I could do both on the same weekend, I loosened both axle nuts and ended up retorquing the bad one and doing it the next weekend. The noise was still there but it was different than it was before. Before it got quieter around 60mph, after it got very load sensitive. (louder, quieter, when you turn) So if you don't know which one, loosen and retorque a axle nut and see if the noise changes! Now I have a very nice, smooth ride. Probably should get the alignment checked, the two strut bolts can be eccentric to adjust camber.

    Gerry
     
  5. xs650

    xs650 Senior Member

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    Unless you have a real early bearing failure it's wise to replace both sides at the same time. If one is worn out, the other is often not far from being worn out.

    While you have the calipers off, it's a good idea to check the brake pads for wear. If they are more than 1/2 worn you might as well replace them. Then, with a little luck you won't have to touch that part of the car for another 100k+ miles.
     
  6. bigblock67

    bigblock67 433K with new cells

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    Great step by step!! Will worry about knowing 159lb when and if I get there.


    Bikg Thanks
    Don
     
  7. bigblock67

    bigblock67 433K with new cells

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    Well got the drivers side done. Not too hard except bearing married the housing. Didnt want to leave its home. A little heat helped. Gonna to pass side soon. Thanks again for detailed procedure.
    Don
     
  8. trseven

    trseven Junior Member

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    Glad to help! I had trouble getting the snap ring off on one side, it was rusted into the groove. I had to grind away part of the top of the old bearing to get a vise grip on it. It bent the whole way out.

    Gerry
     
  9. bigblock67

    bigblock67 433K with new cells

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    I also had a snap ring issue. After breaking one of the tips off of it with a screw driver and a hammer. soaked in PB blaster and eventually rolled out. It got reused ok. On to the other side..

    Thanks again
    Don
     
  10. trseven

    trseven Junior Member

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    I reused mine too, now both sides are missing one tip. I tried the dealership parts dept and they said they never had any of those but could order them. I didn't want to wait.

    Gerry
     
  11. joetho

    joetho Junior Member

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    I replaced my LF wheel bearing at 220,000 and now at 305,000 it is time for the RF. I had a local machine shop press the old one out last time but I have moved and this time I need a machine shop that will do it on a Saturday (like THAT is gonna happen?) and I am now wondering if I can just rent something. Think I could do it with a ball joint press?
     
  12. youngnbald

    youngnbald Junior Member

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    I just did my front bearing and NAPA presses it for $42 here. Found out everyone in town takes it to NAPA.