Hi All, The LED's for the doors have arrived and been fitted. Took less than 10 minutes for both! Just the rear interior light to be done this weekend. Regards, Phil
Bright is nice isn't it! I replaced all the white interior lamps with 36 LED square plates. At night it's like the sun came out when they are all on! It looks great. Nice job on yours BTW, +1!
Yes I have put one in the rear light but used these for the front: 10 X Bright White 6 Small SMD LED Wedge 194 T10 168 12V | eBay I havnt bothered changing the vanity lights! Details here: http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-prius-modifications/104793-rear-led-boot-install.html Regards, Phil
I just did the same thing but instead of attaching the front LED face directly to the plastic I used a bead of silicone seal to glue (easily removed) the back side of the LED assembly to the metal rails . This keeps the face of the LEDs away from any contact with plastic parts. The LED array can get quite hot if left on for extended periods (leaving door open or something like that) and I was concerned about the clear plastic melting or making a fire hazard. I did something similar with my rear hatch and installed a 20 LED array into my front dome light and a 12 LED Festoon into my rear dome light. Everything works perfectly and the only drawback is that I have to wear shades when I enter my Prius at night. FOLLOWUP: On reflection the 20 LED array on the front dome light is maybe too bright at night. I might switch it out for a 12 or 16 LED array.
You don't even have to unplug the whole module like he showed above. Just pop the clear plastic clip. Take the old bulb out of the socket and put in the new one.
Mmmm I hadn't thought of that. Anyone know how much of a risk that is? Should I be moving the LED's off the cover? I incorrectly assumed that the LED's would be cooler than the existing bulb. Phil
Our 36 LED panel practically rest on the plastic cover. We just have it taped in with some double stick tape. It does get a little warm, but doesn't appear to be hot enough to warp the cover. Also noticed that the interior lights will go off after a period of time if door is open but the key is removed.
I obtained some LEDs from a vendor at an electronics flea market, Wiredco, and am happy so far in my 2012 (also fit the 2010 just before trade-in). These are similar to the brightness of the original lamps, not the extra bright stadium lighting that some folks desire. I want to save the 12V battery in case of user error, not get brighter light. I have not compared these to similar products from Ebay, Superbrightleds, or many other sources. For the door and vanity mirror lights in my 2010/12, this side plug model works: T10 Side Plug Wedge Base 6 LED Light 12V 5050 SMD White. Fit into the vanity light without any modification. Fit into the door light by removing the inner transparent bracket, which appears to be the same in my GenIII as in the OP's GenII photos. Non-polarized, draw 55-60 mA at 12.2V, compared to 320-370mA for the factory wedge bulbs. For the map lights, this works: T10 194 Wedge Base 8 Miniature LED Light 12V SMD Cool White. No modification. Polarized, 21-22 mA slightly less bright that the factory wedge bulbs (same type as came in the doors). The sample from the flea market table is bluer than the later mail order units. A 31mm Festoon bulb, most likely this (Festoon 31mm High Power LED SMT Bulb White Dome) is a poor fit to the dome lamp over the rear seat, as it is slightly too long to fit the contacts properly. I did force it in, and it otherwise works well. The side wings do fit the housing. Polarized, this draws 66 mA, compared to 530mA of the factory 8W bulb. The trunk lamp also uses a Festoon bulb, which appears to be shorter at 26mm long. A different festoon LED tacked on to a different order from SuperBrightLEDs is now functioning in that location, though with the same poor fit issue as the light above.
Not sure sorry. The vanity lights are used so infrequently I didn't think it was worth changing them.
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