If I wanted to go with a aftermarket audio system in my car, where do I get 14v at say 100 amps from? Do I need to build a high current 14v supply and run it off the HV pack or is there a 14v buss in the car that can handle a 100a load? I am used to a regular gasser car with an alternator and big battery. The Prius is totally new to me. Thanks, Mike
Dude, Connect it directly to the battery in the rear and store it in the tray in the rear. As long as you don't crank while the car is not in Ready, you should be fine.
That's what I did with mine, right to the +12 battery! Plenty of juice when the car is on! Both the 2 way, and the subwoofer!
100amps? I highly doubt your amplifier(s) draw anywhere near 100amps of current. That's 1,380 watts... What equipment are you installing?
My sub amp is a Punch 200dsm. It pulls well over 50a by itself I recall measuring the output at 560 something RMS watts way back when. Mike
Hi Pat, What do they use to generate the 14v supply? Is it totally safe to draw 100a from the 14v buss? Not that it will be 100a continuous but surely it will nail that level. I just don't want to be frying stuff if I do go with some big amps. tnx Mike
I'm very familiar with that amp. 560 Peak is definitely doable with a 200dsm but RMS, no way. How did you test the output? Unless you drive around listening to test tones it doesn't pull that much current.
Maybe that was a peak reading meter then. Hmm, I always remembered it as a true RMS meter. It was many years ago as you know when that amp came out. It was running bridged mono into a 4 ohm sub with the ammeter inline with the sub. Oh well, that still is a healthy amp that requires a solid 14v supply Mike :tea:
OK, after reading the PDF install and ops manual, this is a nice little 100 RMS watt per channel amp, into a 4 Ω speaker. That being said, if at 14.4 volts you are listening to Wegeners "Flight of the Valkyries" and that amp is drawing all of its 50 rated amps, I can guarantee that you will have more to worry about than can the 14.4 volt buss hold up to the audio blast, but rather why is there blood pouring from your ears, and you KEEP SHOUTING "WHAT DID YOU SAY" Realistically if you run the system at a reasonable SPL, I doubt you will even come close to a 20 A draw. If however you do indeed draw 50A, I have a new word for you to learn, Tinnitus! It's a bitch. Let us know what you do!
Hi Pat, You know what'd be cool is a switching supply for a mobile plate supply running a pair of 833A's I'm staring at a pair of them on the shelf right now. That'd be some mad powa in a Prius :rockon: So it appears that meter we used many years ago was indeed a true RMS meter. 400w RMS into a 4 ohm load at 11.9v. I know we had the car running as it needed the alternator assist to run the audio system Oh well, not a good thing to be listening to that loud of car audio system anymore. I can still hear my wife hollering at me from upstairs so I must be able to hear something I'll have to see how big a battery I can shoe horn into my car and go from there. Sounds like the 14v buss will handle at least a 100a draw which the system wouldn't be drawing that high continuously. A larger battery, if it fits, would lessen the burden on the car's 14v PS. So it appears a guy could run a true kilowatt HF FET amp in the car I don't think the computers would be too happy about that. It'd put out a nice signal though. Appreciate the help guys --... ...-- Mike :tea:
