finding electrical shorts and more

I suspect the repaired wiring harness, but no spark points to coils ( no spark at every plug? ) Some of the fuses should show burnout. Across a good fuse you should read zero volts. Try connecting up your multimeter between the neg on the 12V and the other side to chassis ground. IN MAX Current postion. It should show milli-amp current draw. Start with highest current reading on meter and work down. Another option is to replace wiring harness with a good one from junkyard. If you remove wiring harness disconnect the High Voltage safety switch first. Ascertain that your 12V system is good. Give us some codes and sub-codes and other people can address those better than I. As for the engine, obviously you are not getting spark or fuel. Good Luck. :cheer2: PS: Another good place to check is where the major damage occurred, general body shops are excellent at not hooking everything up or not proofing a system is working.

 

How about all the relays? Check them. The codes are important too. Post them here.

It is probably worth trailering the car to autobeyours.com in Indiana. It might be something simple that would take the average person forever to find, but Steve would spot in 10 minutes.

 

i read another thread awhile back that says most people don't think to look for loose ground wires when looking for electrical problems, and a loose ground wire can lead to huge problems.

I hope this turns out to be a cheap and easy fix for you . . . good luck.

 

Hmmm! I suspect that there is a problem with the wire splicing which has caused abnormal readings with the ECM. It would be a significant job to put in another wiring harness, but have you considered getting one from a junkyard?

 

There was a OP recently which did exactly that, the junkyard wiring harnesss did cure the problem.

 

The best way to check ECU's is to replace them. The ECU's are available on eBay sometimes very cheaply. They do not require key or code or programming but are Gen specific. If that is not the problem put that ECU back on eBay.

The harness can sometimes be repaired if you can get to the damaged area.
Most likely will need to have extensions put on all the wires. There all color coded. You can either use butt splice with the correct Klein
compression tool or solder. If you don't know how to solder don't learn here use the butt splice with heat shrink tubing and heat gun.

Heat gun and Klein butt splice tool can be found at mcm.com
and heat shrink at mouser.com.

Btw, when working on any Prius electrical wiring harness its a good idea to pull the Hybrid Battery Safety plug. The big orange plug in the back of the Hybrid battery housing. That disconnects the 200 Volt Hybrid battery.

Good Luck!

 

The service manual is not clear on the ECM replacement vs. immobilizer ECU. It is possible that you may need to follow a learn procedure that would have the car in IG-ON for 30 minutes. On the other hand, it is not too hard to just try it.

There are numerous standard voltage and resistance values that you can check at the ECM wiring harness, but they are scattered across the pages of code diagnostics in the service manual.

Do you also have ABS/VSC/Brake yellow warning lights? Those codes may not show up on your reader but could be a further indication of the trouble spot.

 

okay, the brake/abs codes are due solely to air in the actuator and not opens/shorts?

And you are replacing the trans??? By the way, there's another guy in PA that is fighting a leak at the MG2 cover and might benefit from your old trans. http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...-cover-leaking-pls-help-need-advice-info.html

 

What exactly is not in spec on these trans plugs?

If me I would get all the codes defined and see if your truly in immobilizer mode before throwing another trans at it. It could be the motor. That you still have same issue with another trans in it makes me suspicious.

You keep saying shorts. Shorts in a car are usually blown fuses and smoke.
If you suspect shorts go into ohm meter and with black probe on ground and Hybrid battery safety plug out ohm out all pins on harness. Anything other than a ground connection lower than one ohm is suspect. But make sure all ground pins are dead shorted to ground. You can also ohm out the entire harness this way too. Have someone ground out ta pin on one end and you measure that pin to ground on the other end. Should show dead shorted to ground. Thats the best way to find an open harness wire.

But regarding your quote please tell us what you find on these trans plugs that are out of spec?

 

Well, there's some progress!

The car stalled simultaneously with a red triangle alarm? There should be a code for that. You can always disconnect the 12V and start over. It won't fix any of those B or C codes but might make it easier to spot the actual fault if it stalls again.

 

:welcome:

You most likely will need a scan tool to bleed the brakes and do a zero point calibration. C1310 is probably there because you have C1247. C1247 has many causes -- do you know for sure that you need to bleed the brakes? You could try doing a reset first, jumpering pins 4 and 13 of the DLC and, with the car in Ready, pumping the brake pedal 8 times in 5 seconds.