So, after I've completed the HU upgrade which did very little in terms of sound quality, the next step was to upgrade stock speakers. I spent days researching speakers. I wanted originally to go 2-way for the front and coax on the back, but then decided to get 3-way's. 2-way components I was researching: Hertz HSK 165 Focal 165K MB Quart QS216 JL Audio C5-650 3-way components I was researching: DLS Ultimate UP 36i Hertz HSK 163 Read here about difference between 2- and 3-way. Finally, I settled on set of 3-way Hertz HSK 163 and set of Audison Voce AV X6.5 coax for the back. The main goal - SQ. At the time I did the install I was offered to replace HT25 tweeter with slightly larger HT28 and HV 165L with HV 165XL, so my final set for the front comprise HT 25, HL 70 and HV 165XL. The difference between original set (HT 25, HL 70 and HV 165L) and mine (HT 28, HL 70 and HV 165XL) IMO is not too big if any, I heard both sets but decided to go with more expensive. HT 25 - tweeter 1" (25mm) / HT 28 - tweeter 28mm HL70 - mid 3" HV165L - woofer 6.5" / HV165XL - woofer 6.5" Hertz HSK 163: 6.5" woofer, 3" (7cm) midrange and 25mm (1") Tweeter 150W RMS power handling (300W peak) Frequency response: 40-22kHz Impendence: 4-ohms Sensitivity: 92 dB/Spl Woofer Outer diameter: 166mm Woofer Mounting hole diameter: 141mm Woofer Mounting depth: 67mm Midrange mounting diamete: 71mm Midrange mounting depth: 41mm Crossover included: 500Hz and 4.5kHz crossover frequency
Wow thank you so much again, Inseek for this info. Those hertz sit/fit nicely in the dash OEM location. Like what you did with the rivets and the orginal mounting brackets. Do you think speaker baffles in this area would be a good idea or not necessary? Again, thank you so much for these pics!!
Wow, looks fantastic. The tweets in the A-pillars look great; that actually looks like the easiest part of the install. This is a very tempting approach for me, though I shudder to think what a shop will charge me to do the kind of work (I'm not well-equipped to do that sort of thing myself, at least not if I ever want to actually finish it). So how does it sound?????
Well done! Very cleaver on the way you mounted the squawker/mid. So the 1" particle board allowed for door panel to still make contact with the speaker?
Very good documentation inseek. Did my mid very simular to yours. Here is what the tweet looks like painted to match if you choose.
nice pics. if i saw correctly, you used hot glue to hold that speaker in? i would recommend something else. if the car sits in the sun, the hot glue will eventually deform and let go of the speaker.
Thanks for this advise. The car was sitting on the sun many times times last April and nothing happened so far. Good think about the hot glue is that it is easily removable , so I can replace it with high temperature silicon if necessary. I also recall seeing a metal ring that came as one of the mounting options for the tweeter, it can be used as well.
Hi Inseek, How did you cut your hole in the pillar to mount the tweeter? What tool did you use? Thanks!
Just staring at these pictures some more, it looks like the tweeters are aimed at each other, rather than the passenger and driver. It looks like the driver is *way* off-axis relative to the driver's side tweeter. Do you hear any image or soundstage effects from this?
When I was trying to find a right location for tweeters, I used a velcro tape attached to the back and moved both tweeters around. The location I choose produced the best soundstage and overall sound richness. I've red alot of theory about where and how to install speakers, but at the end everybody agree that YOUR EARS should be the judge and YOU are the one who decided what sounds best regardless of the location. I had to do adjustments using 9980HD's DSP, and I am still looking for ideas how to professionally measure and tune-up my sound system (the DSP allows me to adjust high- and low-pass crossover levels, time alignment distance along with some other settings).
I found one tool at Amazon that was like round cylinder with exactly the same diameter, I guess it was intended for drilling holes in wood cabinets
Thanks for the pictures. I would really be interested in any additional information you can add. Any lessons learned or things you might do differently. I just received my PIP a couple of weeks ago and I think this time I'm going to spend the time and money to do a nice system upgrade. I don't want to change the head unit. I'm thinking about using a JBL MS-8, a Zed amp, undecided components and a sub. I need to start figuring out what I want, where to mount stuff, and where to tap into the stock system. I'll probably do the install myself, it's fun and you save a few bucks. Ken
After a hot summer (car parked outside under the sun) I had to do some work with tweeters mounted in A-pillar. Regular hot gun glue I originally used to hold them in place is no longer holding them; and since the mesh covering them is painted in black they are like sun magnets - after few hours under the sun they are unbearably hot to touch. I decided to do two things. First, I painted tweeters with metallic grey spray rated for high temperatures. It was an easy job, it took more time to push gently some napkins behind the mesh to preserver the membrane. Second, I've purchased high temperature silicon and combined it with some better hot gun glue that was advertised to hold higher temperatures. So far, so good for about 6+ months, but if it happen again I will probably use epoxy. I'll add some pictures showing painted tweeters in 1-2 days.