Instructions to disable the SKS without Techstream

I just tried it and it worked perfectly the first time using Vincent's steps. then I reactivated it the same way... thanks for sharing!

 

I tried it and it didn't work:

- Power switch off, driver door closed and unlocked.
- Press the unlock switch of the KEY ONCE.
- Open-close, open-close, open the driver door
- Press the unlock switch of the KEY TWICE
- Close-open-close the driver door
- Wireless buzzer sounds once (disabled) or twice (activated).

The buzzer never sounded, and the SKS continued as normal.

Why: I find it annoying. It's parked in my driveway, and I walk by it all the time without wanting to use it. If it's locked, the light comes on. If it's unlocked and I'm working on it, cleaning it or something, it beeps regularly. I want it to ignore me unless I push the button.

Mike

 

Hi Mike,

I think you were using the procedures from Maciej_S, there is 1 step missing. Hovik tried the instructions from the Repair Manual and it works.

Vincent

 

The very next post after that one is mine. That sequence didn't work either. I'll try it again and let you know how it works.

Thanks
Mike

 

Does it just disable the keys ability to communicate with the car. In this case the key would still be sending and might interfere with the pacemaker?

 

The updated procedure didn't work either. Mike

 

I got it to work with Vincent's quote with the step missing. Upon starting it, only the driver's door needs to be unlocked (other doors lock), I did this by locking all doors with driver door open (press lock button on door), then manually unlock the driver door (move the lever to unlock position). Then proceed with sks disable/enable.

I need to keep it enabled (even though I can't use the sks to unlock the car; got a viper alarm in it with remote start, and disabling the sks disables the remote start; alarm thinks it's on but it isn't).

 

I also vote for disabling it if you are going to leave the fob in the car. Don't underestimate the resourcefulness of a car thief. Someone who breaks into the car, finds your keyfob wrapped in foil, which you cleverly hit under the seat or in one of the cubbies, can now drive away with your car, and I'm pretty sure the insurance company isn't going to cover you if they found out your car was stolen with the keys inside!

 

I'm not sure disabling it will do much; sure, they can't just press the power button and drive away, but I think it will give you directions to hold the fob up to the power button to start the car, if you try to do so and the fob isn't detected. Similarly, it will give you directions to depress the brake pedal, if you cycle through the non-Ready power modes twice or so.

So if you rely on disabling the SKS to keep a thief from stealing your car, it will helpfully provide them directions to get them going.

 

My spouse is on his 2nd Medtronic Pacemaker/defibrillator. His doctor says it's a non-issue. It will have to be within 12 inches for the electronics to affect it. His seat is further back than that so he drives my Prius.

 

I have a 2010 Prius bought in June 2009. After coming back from a trip of 18 days in Jan 2014, my car would not start because its 12-volt battery was depleted. AAA came to jumpstart it, and the technician told me that it's a common problem to Prius. He gets called to airport parking lots often after the owner comes back finding their car battery is empty. He also says this problem is not exclusive to Prius, but potentially to all keyless entry cars.

My owner's manual says to go to the dealership to deactivate the keyless system for extensive travel (page 51, which refers to page 579). Assuming that it takes two trips to deactivate and activate it again, calling AAA (if you are a member) or jumpstarting it on your own seems more convenient. Or, with luck, follow Adrianblack and Vincent's Service Manual steps successfully.

I don't find any mention in my 2010 owner's manual of the system shutting down on its own after 5 days--as some people in this thread say. Maybe they have a slightly different model.

 

You can search for Battery-saving function, it is on page 49 but it can be on a different page on your manual.

The RM has more details on page 7360:

If your model V is equipped with Display Audio, there is another way to disable/enable SKS on page 117. Go to Setup -> Vehicle -> Key System with Elec. Key, turn Off / On.

After the SKS is disabled, the push button start will not work. To start the hybrid system, apply the brakes and touch the emblem side of the electronic key to the "Power" switch and press the "Power" switch within 10 secs.



Vincent

 

Thanks for this. I am a surfer and have to hide the fob inside my car when I am doing my thing. I had my car towed to the dealership yesterday due to my not knowing about this 'hack'. I could open the door but couldn't power up. Toyota Roadside Assistance wasn't anything of the sort. A click monkey with an internet connection that was only capable of calling a tow truck (unsuccessfully). Bad experience. Now when I get my car back from service I'll try this out. Thanks!

 

Did not work for me either, bur for some reason the door automaticly lol s it-selskap aften leaving the car after some seconds- it did not do that earlier.,..

 

For anyone that can't get it to work, please ensure that each action has to be executed within the time frame allocated and you need to wait for the next time frame before executing the next action. Too early or too late will cause the ECU to reject.

Action_1__2___3____________4_____________5____________6_____________7
________|-----|-----|------------------------------|-----|------------------------------|-----|
Sec.____0___5___10____________________40___45____________________75__80

For me, I memorize all the actions before hand and use manual counting.

(1) Push unlock once
Start to count 1 thousand, 2 thousand, 3 thousand, 4 thousand, 5 thousand
(2) Open driver door before 5 thousand)
6 thousand, 7 thousand, 8 thousand, 9 thousand, 10 thousand
(3) Push unlock twice before 10 thousand
11 thousand, 12 thousand,...,40 thousand
(4) Close and open the driver door twice before 40 thousand
41 thousand, 42 thousand,...,45 thousand
(5) Push unlock twice before 45 thousand
46 thousand, 47 thousand,...,75 thousand
(6) Close and open the driver door before 75 thousand
76 thousand, 77 thousand,...,80 thousand
(7) Close the driver door before 80 thousand

Vincent

 

when I park the prius for an extended period of time I just disconnect the negative battery cable at the body .. yes you have to crawl in the back and release the hatch back manually but its better than killing a $200 battery

 

Member @Horvik (who is no longer active on this forum) said he was able to both disable AND reactivate the SKS feature using the steps described by Vincent.

Instructions to disable the SKS without Techstream | Page 2 | PriusChat

Has anyone else been able to confirm that same steps work to reactivate on a Gen 3 Prius? Or, does the official repair manual, from which the sequence of steps was obtained, clearly say duplicating the steps will reverse the previous change (and activate the SKS if it has been turned off)?

Thanks!

 

I have a 2012 plug-in Prius and I tried this several times without success.

Can somebody please help me!?

 

Now if only we can come up with a solid solution for that terrifying death rattle the motor makes after 2-3 days of inactivity. Yes, I've read about getting an oil catch can (expensive is best for whatever reaeon) seems like it comes from the egr if you can pop the hood quick enough without freaking out and shutting the car down.

SM-N986U1 ?

 

Adding to this continuous problem. Disclaimer, due to a stroke, it's difficult to explain even though I've been repairing my own cars over 40 years and know their computer systems as well. Piece of cake. 'Normally'

Between my 2007 and 2010 Pius this SKS has cost me 3 batteries.

Usage is the problem. yet past 2 years my driving abilities became troubling and wasn't using the 2007 much. Even that I tried keeping the batter up by driving and or recharging it, the SKS just killed it. (I had not thought, remembered the switch under dash on Gen II, that might have helped)

No long after acquiring 2010, it killed its battery, and now recently with pandemic and all, Wife who had driven near every day and since out of work for a year, began only using the 2010 at average of once a week, it killed that battery suddenly, no warning B/C she had not driven it in 5 days. .

To make things worse The programing can get stuck in a loop. When the battery becomes low yet capable of starting the system but not enough to turn the engine where it only takes 1 full turn or so to run, it will reduce the load. A little difficult to explain except the charger, in my case, 8 amp and 4 amp charger, in this loop the mode virtually locks on the starter position where it is stuck without enough power to complete the starter's turn. This draws 8 amp charger into an over load, heats the charger, and automatically pops the fuse protection of charger and fails to charge.

This stalled, virtual locked position as the mode has not completed its cycle, it is literally drawing all the amps from charger when it's still trying to turn the starter. That is the stupidest programming, I'd never dream any auto to do.
Yes you can disconnected battery to reset it, but, what a dumb system when you only need to recharge enough amps without pulling junk out, apart and yank a battery cable.

This does not, only happen in Gen II but Gen II as well.

The worse is not only the SKS wearing battery down, but, all of it pre start modes, are running resets on, presumably solenoids and small motors, using up what little amps battery has before operating the starter motor. . That can leave the mode for starter to open the loop and get it stuck where you can not charge with an 8 amp boost. The most common handy dandy, want to be, tool man has in his/her garage, is completely stuck in a starter mode where the amp draw is so high, you can not charge but over heat charger and pop breaker.
There are other functions that stall, you can't get it fully off, or green light start light turns yellow get big triangle warning, and instructions won't reset, leave half on, stuck again for who knows why. It can start and run yet will not turn off, engine and main battery remains on.

I have seen so many different scenarios when low batter can cause irregular faults , it's nutz.

As I read other's input, on Prius at least, it seems even the IV generation is doing it even now.

There's got to be something, an after market toy add on to put these into a sleep mode that say; disables this system in about 15 minutes and reactivates it once door handles or remote sends a signal to activate it quickly. Or hard burn program mode on the chip to where you can make a decision to sleep and not without doing Mexican hat dances to enable and disable, yank battery cable wash off radio, personal setting etc just because it's constantly sending a signal to pick up your remote when you are, like, 10-15 feet away and lights up your whole danged pre-start 'Ready' system or whatever.

SKS = Stupid Key System. Starter Killer Sensor. It's a luxury option and nice yet, distorting expensive parts, (Who knows what other fails can happen when start mode is stuck, in a loop, incapable of operating and or requiring a hot jump (No help if start light is yellow) or spare booster in trunk, yet a large charger with, like, 20 Amps to get it out of trouble.

I can not expresses how much this has troubled me, and just has to be causing 100's of thousands of owners the same, given the pandemic's limitations and restricting mobile operations. When need to conserve Stupid Key Systems, you can see in the thread, topic, most can't even do the hat dance anyways. The average users do not even have a clue to discover help on the net.

Off my soap box. [Drops or rather, drills a hole dash microphone]. Ker-plunk.