Installing active sub with OEM headunit, tips? I won an activ sub So I am kinda obliged to put it in as my comment winning me the sub included a reference to the Prius So my questions: - best place to pick up the speakersignal? - best place to hide the remote-volume-bass-knob-cabling? - best place to pick up power (guess simply the battery terminals) - which signal to use for switching the amp on (so what 'remote' signal to use)? I have a 2009 European Prius II with the simplest headunit and a Parrot handsfree bluetooth set that also hooks up to the speakerwires. (I think it has its own amp and cuts off the speakerwires coming from the headunit and inserts its own signal for the phone or its inputs (iPod/USB ). I'll dive into the wiringschematic of this Parrot to see if that gives me a clue for where Parrot spliced into the speakerwiring. Any comments welcomed. General info: I have bigger plans for my other car: excellent sound (SQL), multiple amps (8 channels), stealth install as it a family car and I need the space for holidays. I may have bigger plans for the Prius too, but I take my time changing stuff due to (1) lack of confidence, knowledge and skill, (2) changing ideas and (3) lack of time/garage/etc. So one other question for the future is why bezels/radio-fronts to put a 1 or 2din unit in the stock location are for 2004-2007 Prius' and not for 2009? What changed in 2008 and 2009?
Pick up signal and turn on from the rear speakers. Mount the remote knob inside the center console Pick up power and ground from the battery which is conveniently located in the rear hatch Good luck!
If you go directly to the 12v battery for power/ground, install a relay that de-powers the sub when the vehicle is off to avoid draining the 12v battery. JeffD
Thanks guys! Where do I find the rear speakerwires? Do they run under the door-sils or can you tap into them in the back somewhere? And what should I use for turn-on signal? I could devise some turn-on gismo out of the speaker-signal (I'm guessing it is a standard amplifierchip with a bridged output, so sensing 6-7V on one of the speakerwires would mean the sub should turn 'ON'. There are commercially available units, but making it myself would be cheaper ) But if there IS a signal present for e.g. an OEM amplified sub, then tapping into that would be better! I will probably open up the dash anyway (found the instructions on here somewhere), so will have a browse threw the connection there too (e.g. how the Parrot carkit is wired up). Any schematics on the OEM radio wiring with wirecolors?
I would just tap into the rear speakers where the wires are in the door sill. A good high to low converter will have the remote turn on module built in. check out Peripheral electronics. The have an all in one unit. I think it can create a turn on signal from the speaker wires which makes for less wiring. Alternatively you can access all the wires you need behind the stereo then just run the RCA cable and remote turn on wire to the rear of the car.
Thanks. The sub has its own high-low converter (it has speakerinputs and RCA inputs), but I have not found any reference to it distilling a 'remote' signal from it. Perhaps I should simply await its arrival before proceeding... As for the RCA: the OEM unit does not have this I assume? I've asked on the Parrot-site if the line-out on the Parrot also carries the OEM-headunit signal at line level when the headunit is playing, but I guess this is highly unlikely. I'll report my progress with pics once I actually get it :rockon:
where do you hook up the remote wire lead for the amp ? the remote wire controls when the amp turns on and off with the car? I cant find where to hook it up ?
The active sub is still not in and I resorted to fitting an old headunit to switch on the amp for the frontspeakers. But any "accessory" wire would do: that's a wire that gets 12V when the car is switched ON, like e.g. the cigarette lighters. It would still have the amp switched ON when the radio is OFF but the car is ON, but that's only a 2A draw or so.
If all you need is a switched 12v power source then use something like the LVT: I simply taped into the left rear speaker wires that ran through the driver side door sill. I used t-taps then ran wires to an SVEN2 (high to low level converter) then ran RCAs to my amp.
did you run a remote wire F8L? I am getting ready to attempt an amp install of the new rockford fosgate punch pbr300 in the prius, and my amp is looking for a power/ground/remote wire. I have never wired in an amp before and am getting confused on what exactly is needed. Could you explain more on what the sven2 is accomplishing? Does it take care of the remote wire? Here is a link to the amp that I will be using... Rockford Fosgate
Your amp seems to have the LVT thinghy and the SVEN2 build in!!! I don't think you need anything else than - tapping into the speakerwires for both a music signal and a turn-on signal (due to the LVT and SVEN2 being build into the amp) - powerwiring to the amp - speakerwiring to the sub
Missed your question... I had a dual 12" Aliante in the back for a while, but it needs to go whenever we go grocery shopping The amp is there all the time so I always play my fronts full range through the amp (2x65Wrms). The bridged second pair of channels is doing nothing unless I throw the sub in the back. I run it with a 2 ohm load, but so far the amp survives and doesn't get more than luke warm. If you plan on doing the same: don't put the amp too far forward: the aluminum strips stayed where they are (didn't feel like drilling through the touch Toyota steel again and my thread tapping tool broke during the first three holes...), but I had to move the amp to the rear half an inch because the amp was touching the buldge under the carpet under the front seat. Secondly: the screws used to attach the aluminum strips came out the other end half a millimeter. No problem I thought, as there is plenty of undisturbed dust there. But strangely enough, the slidingmechanism does NOT disturbe dust, but DOES take issue with a slightly protruding bolt. After making sure it doesn't protrude at all, it works perfectly and is totally stealthy (if I would have fed the power wire UNDER the carpet instead of on top...) Third thing is that I had to undo the mounting-thingy under the second transistor of the lower row of four. It put too much stress on the cables when sliding forward, so I undid it. BTW: the active sub I won fell through. Lets chalk it up to miscommunication...
I still throw it in on a regular basis awaiting ideas to make a permanent solution... BTW, to the right is my RV (camper) where I put the enclosure when I need to go groceryshopping. Hauling it inside the house (~25kg?) is way too much of an effort due to an illness.
