Looking for a dash kit

Why exclude them? You'll at least want to look at their diagrams to recognize which dash panel(s) you broke. (I'm guessing the Instrument panel -> Cluster and switches -> Finish panel, though if you had an especially bad day you might have busted Instrument panel -> Instrument panel also.) See this post for how to find what you need in the dealer diagrams. The site is for actual Toyota dealers who will sell you the actual Toyota parts at a discount. Different dealers who participate have different discounts, so it is worth checking more than one. Then you will at least know what you are looking for and what it would cost to do it right. If you then want to explore other options, you'll know what to compare them to.

A good place to start is probably by asking the heat/AC whether it thinks there's anything wrong with itself. You can do that by (a) turning ignition off, (b) turn heat knob to off, (c) turn ignition to ON (only ON) and inside of five seconds, press A/C three times, then turn heat knob to auto.

Watch the light in the A/C button. If it just goes to a steady fast blink, that's the OK code (which in your case, just means the system hasn't noticed what's wrong so it can't tell you). Otherwise it will blink you two-digit codes: for example, blink blink (pause) blink blink blink would be 23. You can look those up in the manual and/or post them here. If you don't get any blink codes when you do this (after making sure you did it right), then there's some more basic problem like the power or control cabling to the A/C control got knocked loose in what you were doing, or (less likely) you damaged the control somehow and/or blew a fuse. The wiring diagram (see this post) will be of use if you need to track such things down.

-Chap

 

That'd be two codes (with a 1.5 second pause between digits and 2.5 secs between codes).

11 refers to the inside air temperature sensor. This guy is behind the small stack of slits in the plastic just under the shift lever. He has a wiring connection and also a small tube that leads to the hvac fan inlet. (That way when the fan is running it actively sucks cabin air over the sensor to make sure it senses the same air you're sitting in.)

21 refers to the solar sensor (the black round spot far forward under the windshield, just to the right of the defrost nozzles). It's what allows the hvac to compensate for when you're driving in shade or hot sun.

You can get a code 21 just for doing the self test in a dark place. If you do it again in the sun and there's no 21 code then the solar sensor is fine.

You can get an 11 if you do the test when the air temperature inside the car is really cold (something like -3 F or -19 C). If it might really have been that cold in the car when you tested, try again when it's warmer and see if the 11 goes away. Otherwise your inside temp sensor is either faulty, or just didn't get reconnected.

The way code 11 is written up implies the computer can't distinguish "sensor problem" from "really cold", so I wouldn't be surprised if that made it blow really hot air on purpose.

Hope this helps (it's in the shop manual, look around page DI-864 or so).

-Chap