2008 Generation II driver with about 66K miles. Yesterday when I got in the car to do errands the car turned on but neither the MFD nor the main dash display turned on. I was able to get a little bit out of the MFD when I would push the display button, but it would fade and then go off. The main display was completely blank (no speedo, lights, other indicators, nothing), although it would show the turn indicators when I signaled. When I got where I was going I couldn't turn the car off by pushing the power button, and I couldn't get the trunk open to get the garbage out. When I got home the car would turn off and I got the main display back on, but on one other driving trip yesterday the main display worked but the MFD was sporadic at best. I'm assuming it's not a fuse issue because then it would be off for good. Give it to me straight, guys? Am I looking at a new MFD? Also, any thoughts about the main display and not turning off business? Thanks.
I suspect that you're experiencing some of the random symptoms of a dying 12V battery... Much less expensive and easier to remedy.
Yes, until it can be ruled out. It is not unheard of for a new 12V battery to be installed without a full charge which over time can lead to problems. Have you taken any battery readings after the car has unused for a significant period such as unused overnight?
Try running Richard's procedure to test the 12V yourself. No need to run to the dealer just yet. http://priuschat.com/forums/newbie-forum/73400-weird-stuff-happening-mpgs-dropping-test-battery.html
I tried the battery test. Under load it was just under 12V, like 11.7-11.9 (it varied). It did stay above 12V in Ready mode. If it's a battery at about a year old do they come with any kind of warranty?
I would just go ahead and get a Optima replacement! You can install it yourself, they now have a model specific for the Prius There is a thread about the new Prius specific battery.http://priuschat.com/forums/prius-h...-12v-yellow-top-d51-battery-pencil-posts.html
In Ready mode, you are really measuring an inverter output, not a meaningful battery voltage. Load voltage, and resting voltage when the car has been shut down for several hours, are more useful. Aftermarket batteries typically do have warranties. Do go find your purchase paperwork. It may also be marked on the battery itself, with a little punchout tag to indicate purchase year and month.
The 11.7-11.9 is death. My oem almost 5 year old battery measures better than that by comparison. Did you ever have to jump start this battery? If that answer is yes that's why the battery is bad. Those little AGM's cannot handle one good discharge without mild sufation and that has a big impact on its ability to hold a charge. Your mileage probably has been bad lately too as marginal battery will never charge right causing the engine to run alot more than necessary.. I'm afraid we will be seeing a rash of bad batteries form here on out becasue its really starting to get cold and that will kill a marginal battery. I recommend abandoning that battery and step up to an Optima as suggested because even if you bring that battery in all the dealer is going to do is put that battery on a charger & then tell you its good. Month later your stuck somewhere. Do everything you can do to not put yourself in the situation where you need a jumpstart becasue if not done properly can cause $ thousands of $$$ of out of warranty damage. Oh and its a very good thing to put the battery on a charger once a month. Put it on a standard charger in 2 AMP mode. It should charge the battery to O current draw in less than 15 minutes. Done. That will really prolong battery health for years. Alot of us on this forum regularly do this. I can't remember the last time I had to buy a car battery.
I've never had to have a jump with this battery, no loss of mileage. I'm not arguing, but this is totally without warning. Thanks for all the great information.
I had the original battery in our former Nissan Cube die instantly and completely at 14 months. The car was driven 50+ miles/day so it wasn't from lack of use or cold.
I just checked in my glove compartment: November 24, 2010. Maybe it's just me, but I think a $200 battery should last longer than a year.
So do I but Toyota warrants a replacement battery for only 1 yesr. Since you have to buy a battery, buy a better oone.
Hmm...call me a skeptic, but I don't think it is your 12V. Failure to turn off implies a 12V battery with a dead cell. 11.7V under load isn't fabulous, but it isn't dead either. This is looking more like a combination meter problem.
To elaborate on combination meter, see Luscious Garage | Blog | LG TV - Prius Dead Dashboard and Luscious Garage | Blog | Prius Combination Meter (dashboard) - Repair Available.
Hobbitt has been inside of these (of course...!) Prius MFD I am thinking that the problem being traced there (intermittents due to cracks in the connectors) is not present in newer MFDs. But who knows...
It turns out it's the combination display ECU. The replacement is going to be paid by the extended warranty I didn't want to buy. They're also covering the cost of a replacement rental car until it's fixed, so until next week I'm driving a 2011 Prius. I'm still not that close to covering the price I paid for the warranty. Thanks for all your help, guys!
