1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Engine Starts and Stalls in 3 seconds P3030

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by thoroughbredab, Dec 9, 2011.

  1. thoroughbredab

    thoroughbredab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2011
    6
    0
    0
    Location:
    NC
    Vehicle:
    2001 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    I read the forums and found nothing quite like mine.

    Installed a "good" used traction battery out of a car with 70K. Tested batteries 2 at a time and have 15-15.5 volts per pair. 12v Batt also tests fine...... I turn key, the display shows ready, and the car fires up, runs for a few seconds then I here a "click" back in the Batt area and the car engine dies. (red exlamation and Battery picture) It will not start again UNTIL I clear Check engine code which is always P3030 (I hear another click when I clear CEL) Then it starts again for 3 seconds. repeat.repeat...the sence wires which I think the code refers too look OK and most people I see with this code can still drive around. Can someone please advise me.
     
    #1 thoroughbredab, Dec 9, 2011
  2. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2010
    3,326
    1,513
    38
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Taylor Automotive, Sanford, NC, #1 shop on the East Coast for Gen 1 Prius.

    (919) 774-4037

    You could try using the system main relay and battery ECU out of your old battery.

    Test voltages from the battery side of the sense wire harness to see if there the bad connector shows up that way.

    15.0-15.5 is pretty bad, that battery is significantly out of balance. Differences should be 0.1V or less.
     
    #2 seilerts, Dec 9, 2011
    1 person likes this.
  3. thoroughbredab

    thoroughbredab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2011
    6
    0
    0
    Location:
    NC
    Vehicle:
    2001 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Thanks for your quick reply.
    I dont think that my .5 volt difference would cause the engine to start and stop, would it...? what do you mean by test volts from batt side of the sence wire harness and what should they read? Are you leaning more to the batt ecu and or relay since the car clicks and doesnt stay running? is 15volts too high?
     
    #3 thoroughbredab, Dec 9, 2011
  4. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2010
    3,326
    1,513
    38
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    0.5V is huge in NiMH, could be the difference between 75% and 50% State of Charge, even considering that you are measuring 2 modules. I point this out because it indicates that your used battery may not be as good/fresh as claimed. The system main relay is responsible for the click that you hear. You can try switching things out, since you still have them, yes? Otherwise, I highly recommend a trip to Taylor Automotive.
     
    #4 seilerts, Dec 9, 2011
  5. thoroughbredab

    thoroughbredab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2011
    6
    0
    0
    Location:
    NC
    Vehicle:
    2001 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    please help me with this statement.....'test volts from batt side of the sence wire harness' and what should they read?
     
    #5 thoroughbredab, Dec 11, 2011
  6. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2010
    3,326
    1,513
    38
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    You know, I may have misspoke. On Honda and Gen II Toyota, the sense wires connect to the battery ECU. On Gen I, it looks like the wires are integrated, no way to unhook and backprobe.
     
    #6 seilerts, Dec 11, 2011
  7. thoroughbredab

    thoroughbredab New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2011
    6
    0
    0
    Location:
    NC
    Vehicle:
    2001 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    On mine the sense wires run along parallel with the main cable and come out together with a orange plug about 1.5"x.5". do I unplug this and ohm it out or test volts to ground? if so what should my readings be. on a nother note i was able to keep me ICE running by quickly shiftling to N then I put it in D and was able to go for a 3 mile drive. but towards the end of the drive the shifting and power was horrable (wasn't sure I would make it back home) also right from the startup the ABS light was flashing and BRAKE light was on.
     
    #7 thoroughbredab, Dec 12, 2011
  8. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2010
    3,326
    1,513
    38
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Okay, if the sense wires connect to a plug, then unplug it and test each one of those pins relative to the overall HV battery negative. You will need to have the interlock installed to test all of them. Look for each pin to be different from the rest by 15V. Take high voltage safety precautions as you will be probing +300V towards the end.
     
    #8 seilerts, Dec 12, 2011
  9. vincent1449p

    vincent1449p Active Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2004
    894
    331
    0
    Location:
    Singapore
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius c
    I had the sense wires problem reported here.

    IMHO, it is safer to dismantle the sense wires harness from the terminals and unplug it from the Battery ECU then do the measurements. You need to ohm it out all the 20 wires for continuity and also across each other for open circuit. FYI, some of the KOH leak into my orange plug and cause corrosion to one of the connectors. Some of it also leak into the Battery ECU socket. Although I managed to bypass the socket and soldered the sense wires directly onto the PCB, the Battery ECU eventually burnt one year later.

    Vincent
     
    #9 vincent1449p, Dec 12, 2011
(You must log in or sign up to post here.)