Replace HV Battery: Toyota vs Re-InVolt

Fellow Chatters - It's decision time for me- I would appreciate your inputs.
01 Prius, 110K miles, HV battery failure warning on MFD, ICE revs after several minutes of driving, no power to drive, shutting off ignition and restarting corrects problem for a time. HV battery fan runs at high speed at times. Codes: 3000, 3006, 3012, 3016, 3022, 3024. 12V battery tested weak as well.

Here are my options that I'm aware of:
Local Toyota dealer quote:
New HV battery (1yr warranty) $2299., $180. tax, labor $440. (4hrs) = TL $2919.
HV battery ECU $1207., labor $0. (if installed with battery, otherwise plus $440)

I want to replace the HV battery myself, so...............
Re-InVolt quote:
Refurb. HV battery (complete w/ Gen II modules and ECU) (1yr warranty) $1675., shipping $175. (core shipping add $175) = TL $2025.

I'm leaning away from a new battery from Toyota because they’re Gen I type and more of the same. Local Toyota dealership service manager has been excellent to work with, but it still looks like a money pit. So, what about Re-InVolt? It has a 1yr warranty, but I've not seen evidence that Re-InVolt is any more reliable.

I'm aware that any battery I purchase is subjected to many variables that effect it's life expectancy. So, do I just go for it? Am I missing something?

What was your experience with either option?

 

Thanks for your input. You are correct that Champion doesn't ship batteries. I stand corrected and have updated my original post. Still checking on other options. Swapping the 12 volt battery out first. Leaning toward Optima D51R Yellow Top (3yr replacement warranty) $160. (shipped) vs Panasonic from Toyota (1yr replacement warranty) TL=$192. I intend to call eLearnAide about their return policy before ordering. Optima D51R 8073-167 yellow top Battery

 

Concerning the ReInVolt: If I install the ReInVolt battery complete with the ECU, I understand I will need to at least clear the old codes, but should I expect the car to just start up and accept the new parts or should I expect issues to be resolved like more codes due to communications between ECUs?

 

Thanks for your help. I installed Optima D51R 12V battery from eLearnAide. HV traction battery problems still exist. Upon starting the SOC display shows HV battery at lowest level, then quickly becomes full and drops down again fairly quickly indicating failure as stated in #1, it needs replaced or refurbished. I intend to upgrade it with Gen 2 modules. Updates to come.

 

After reading up on classic cell modules and seeing the condition of those in my 11 yr old 01, I decided to repopulate my classic pack with cell mods from 2010 salvage. Cleaning the bus strips and terminal nuts was rather tedious, but your recommendations were helpful. Installed the pack and started the car. It ran smooth with no MIL for a few minutes then ICE began to run rough, white vapor came from the exhaust and the ICE died. Restarted and it ran okay for a few minutes until I powered it off. I connected an OBDII and read DTC P3190 seemingly not related to the traction battery, which SOC varied from 1/2 - 3/4. I cleared the code, restarted and drove about 5 miles before CEL, triangle and right side warning indicator appeared and experienced loss of power as was stated originally. Then I scanned DTCs:
P3190
P0171 sys too lean bank 1
P0130 O2 sensor circuit malf. bank 1, sensor 1
P0133 O2 sensor circuit slow response bank1 sensor 1

Odd that these DTC's weren't read previously as originally stated. There are still no HV battery related DTCs. First glance at the MAF appears dull/dark. Throttle body butterfly looks mostly clean. Air box is clean. The car has been mostly idle the past 6 weeks or so, but driven occasionally until HV batt removal. No sign of critters except there appears to be small bits of foam laying in the cabin filter, but no other signs so far.

I will clean the TB and MAF and check the airbox seal to the TB. Maybe that will do it. I didn't find much info on the P0130, P0133 codes and none on the DTC chart. Any help there?

 

My how things change. The codes for today are: P0171 sys too lean bank 01 and P1436. This is after 22 mile drive check eng. light ON, no others. Prior to drive I cleaned the TB and MAF with required cleaners. K&N air filter is clean, not over oiled. Spark plugs (25K miles on them) not fouled, but some condensation in No.1 well removed. Throttle plate moves freely. Ensured air box clamp is tight to TB. HV batt SOC display is full. MPG as usual. 12V batt is new.

P0171 freeze frame includes: f"uel system 1 CLSD"
Status: All reading Ready, except "Evap System Not Ready"

Patrick Wong states: [FONT=&quot]DTC P0171[/FONT][FONT=&quot] means that the system is running lean. Possible problem areas include a leak in the air induction system downstream from the mass air flow sensor (allowing unmetered air to enter the system), a faulty MAF sensor, the engine coolant temp sensor, fuel line pressure, a leak in the exhaust system, the upstream O2 sensor, and the PCV valve and connections.

P1436: originally dealer tech stated "[/FONT][FONT=&quot]actuator in exhaust not working. Replace exhaust w/ cat. converter" Q: Isn't the actuator a common problem? Are there instructions how to inspect and free up actuator? [/FONT]

Update: P1436 is the only code remaining. There have been no issues with the re-populated HV battery. Actually, it holds charge better than my 05 and is usually fully charged.

 

Update. I read the suggested thread way back when, but no solution there. I too have lubed the valve and if moves freely, but the code returns. I've ignored the CEL 'cause the car runs fine and mpg is good. Are you aware of a reason/consequence why I shouldn't ignore the error code P1436?

Update 18 months later: Moved to AZ, car runs great, check engine light still on, city mpg now in mid 30s in AZ summer with heavy A/C use. I plan to try using ZEP on the actuator valve so I can hopefully get rid of CE light and pass emissions.

 

Thanks Bob. I meant to say we have no inspection here. Since CELs are notorius for illuminating for seemingly insignificant things (i.e. loose gas cap), I've lost focus of their pupose (my bad) and it was so easy to ignore this issue.
I will try to lube the valve and consider replacing parts now that there has been some time (7000miles) since I've invested/replaced cell modules in the HV battery pack and all is well there.

BTW, I looked at your mpg chart and am curious what it takes to achieve +50. I drive conservatively, accellerate softly (except when passing) and coast as much as possible (ticking off the SUV and pickup drivers). I never see more than about avg. 45mpt. Suggestions? A good thread? Are you running on Eco tires? I haven't yet. Have tried Firestone FR710 and currently Cooper Lifeliner GLS - both good winter traction (important here).