sad story of my (sold) 2001 prius [bad cell + engine misfire -> $6000 repair??]

It is possible to limp along with a failed module for a few weeks at best, and even then, the driver must knowingly baby the car and avoid low SoC, high demand situations. But once the car detects a bad cell, it will complain vociferously. Suggest that your buyer take the car to a place in Columbia, MD, that is listed in the hybrid directory. At the very least, they can install a ReInvolt battery for about $2000. A competent hybrid mechanic might be convinced to simply replace the bad module and charge several hundred $$$.

Preferred Independent Hybrid Car Repair and Service Shops | Hybrid Cars

 

Here is my response to your numbered questions in the OP:

1. No

2. The Classic Prius traction battery has 38 modules within (composed of 228 cells.) It is possible to replace an individual module, but that is likely a repair that will last only for the short- to medium-term. If one module has failed, others are likely in line to fail over the ensuing months.

3. Probably not, especially since the car is on its second owner.

4 and 5. Given your description of symptoms, I would start by repairing or replacing the traction battery. Regarding engine misfiring, if water seeped into the spark plug wells, the spark igniters might need to be replaced. It is unlikely that all four fuel injectors need to be replaced unless a tank of bad gasoline was added. I would question that any ECU needs to be replaced at this time, but if the engine has trouble starting then I would suggest replacing the iridium spark plugs if this has not already been done, and cleaning the throttle body interior and throttle plate.

 

That estimate is ridiculous, regardless of how parts or labor are categorized. It is likely that the mechanic has no intention of actually working on the car and wants the guy to go somewhere else.

 

I'd be quite interested to hear how this turns out, although we may never know since the owner is not the OP.

Not to be a total jerk, but that repair estimate is insanely expensive for a 10 year old car with merely 100k miles on it. I say that because the the Prius had already been out since 1997 in Japan.

Just for perspective, we have a 1992 Mazda 626 in the family with about 125k miles (old car, fairly low miles) and it has never needed more than about $800 of repair on it. And the repairs are few.

Perhaps the problem with the classic Prius was a 'bad' traction battery design.
If the iconic Pri's come up needing tons of repairs in 3 years with low mileage cars, that will be bad.

 

http://priuschat.com/forums <--such a great resource. He ought to register!

(best wishes!)

 

I agree with seilerts that in this case, the problem isn't with the car, it's with the estimate. If took your 626 to some mechanic who told you with a straight face it needed all the injectors, all the coils, seven gears in the tranny and a full defresnibulation of the frammistat, and you posted about it, somebody else could come along and say "gee, those Mazdas sure are expensive to repair!"

-Chap

 

I would still look for a second opinion in hybrid shop.

Ahh, it turns that from one perhaps 'small' problem mechanic try to pull the chain of 'other' problems, we all know that car worked and owner used it for months, then problem happened. I have cars for years and if one problem happen then during the testing I do disregard other symptoms, I just repair the problem. Usually the 'other' symptoms disappear then.

We all know that Pri's electrics are 'connected' in a various ways and that misfire may be caused by above problem.

If it's me I would search 'donor', perform transplant of s/hand battery or renewed battery - preferably with private mechanic through private agreement.

Leave the initial cost at ~US$1k (pretty sure if you search you'll find one for that cost) for start. If failed with other symptoms, then the main problem (of the problematic cell) would at least be eliminated.

I would leave touching the rest until then, just leave the standard 12V battery connected to some sort of power maintainer/desulfator from time to time until you find the donor HV battery.

my 2 cents.

 

Hey tuc - I think that you are being very decent - many people would have just blown the guy off. This really is not your battle - part of buying any used car, especially an older one with close to 100k miles is that you know that issues will pop up. I can not imagine contacting a seller after 5 months so my alarm bell would go off had I received this email - I'd be waiting for the other shoe to drop - namely the new owner asking for $'s. Perhaps that is just my jaded, cynical side talking.

 

Re: included work estimate

I just had my injectors redone for $20 each at a place called Doctor Injector in Portland Or area. Very competent and honest people.

It is common for people to rebuild these batteries with Gen 2 cels, but you have to scrounge two gen 2 batteries to have enough modules to use (more of them in a gen 1).

a wreaking yard ecm is about $150 (do your shopping.

As for coils, if it aint broke, don't fix it.

Valve cover gasket is re-usable, but assuming its gone, a Fel Pro replacement is $15.

Sooooo. Aside from the igniters and dealing with the battery (did he get any codes from the mechanic?), he's looking at $250 in parts.

 

We're assuming the estimate is ridiculous. $2,500 for hybrid battery replacement doesn't sound ridiculous to me. I was quoted $3,500 parts and labor by Toyota for a 2nd gen.

It sounds like this repair could very well run into the thousands. We need follow up on the story.

 

You've selected the part of the estimate that doesn't sound ridiculous.

I was reacting to post 3. Without seeing some pretty serious diagnostic notes made by this mechanic in support of his conclusions, I am left with the strong impression that he is proposing to buy $920 of injectors, $840 of igniters, $1k of ECU, plus a gasket for a valve cover that isn't removed for any of those repairs, and throw them at an engine because he doesn't know why it is misfiring.

Has he offered results of his fuel, spark, and compression tests? Seems like the time-honored place to start. If the engine still starts and there's enough juice in the traction battery to crank it while getting stable 13.8 V out of the converter, I would think these tests can be made.

-Chap

 

Ok fair enough. Hopefully we'll know more about this case.