If you have a blown fusible link in the engine bay fusebox, this set of photos may help you. It's still a PITA to change, but if you have some time it's not all that difficult. The fusible link assembly is about 5 inches long, gray with clear plastic cover. They usually only blow in a collision or stupid event like hooking up jumper cables in the wrong place. more photos here; http://photobucket.com/fusiblelink
Thanks this is very handy, do you happen to have the actual part number and/or a reference where you bought your replacement from. Toyota seems to struggle to identify "fusible link".
Toyota Part number for 2004-2005 is 82620-47050, around $69 list at dealer...I'm sure it's a special order since they are not commonly consumed. (You'll need your VIN to confirm compatibility) Your best bet is to buy a used part from a recycler. I got mine from http://www.adoptapart.com in Denver.
I was able to do it without having to remove the bottom cover. Once the new part was in, the check engine light was on for about the first half-hour of driving. I was not too concerned and hoped it would go off, because the check engine light had also run for a half hour and turned off on its own after I originally blew this fuse (same as the original picture on this post) and bypassed it with a short piece of wire and two alligator clips. About buying a replacement: With only the knowledge of the dealer's price quote (and I wasn't aware the price had included labor) for the part, I jumped at the chance to buy a used one for $60. I later found online sources that were selling new parts for this price, supposedly.
To replace this unit is fairly simple and straight forward. 1.Buy the replacement part (Cost me $55 on sale from the Toyota Dealership). 2.Make sure you have the needed tools a.1 Large Flat head screw driver (or plyers) used to help pull unit up and out. b.1 Smaller flat head screw driver (used to release tabs) c. 10 mm socket wrench d. 8mm socket wrench[ Study your new part and see where there are 3 tabs that hold it into the fuse box a.1 on the right side and 2 on the left side. Make sure you have a screw driver on had that is small/large enough for this tab. b.on the very bottom you see where 2- 4 slot connectors will attach Connection Points by lunacyworks posted Jun 16, 2016 at 11:33 AM 3. Disconnect the 12v battery (I also disconnected the HV battery) Safetyfirst by lunacyworks posted Jun 16, 2016 at 11:33 AM 4. Remove the Red + cover off the fusible link box remove wire cover then remove nut and wire Step1 by lunacyworks posted Jun 16, 2016 at 11:33 AM 5.Next loose all the tabs holding the fusible link module in and the blackfuse block directly below the fusible link module as they are both bolted together. Step2 by lunacyworks posted Jun 16, 2016 at 11:33 AM 6.Pull fusible link module up enough to reach the bolt holding the Black fuse box on. Remove bolt, then loose tab holding black fuse box on. Lift and push black fuse box out of way. Step3 by lunacyworks posted Jun 16, 2016 at 11:33 AM 7. Next remove the 4 bolted on wires (1 left side, 3 right side). Step4 by lunacyworks posted Jun 16, 2016 at 11:33 AM 8. The loose tabs holding the 2 4-wire connectors to bottom of Fusible link and then remove the fusible link. Replace in reverse order. Step5 by lunacyworks posted Jun 16, 2016 at 11:33 AM In my picture they are a bit off as I didn't figure out to remove the black fuse box first. Other posters say to remove the bottom of the fuse box, but I found that was not needed. The whole process took me around 20-30 mins. I figure I could replace it now in 10 mins.
PS. I did this because the 7 year old 12v batter died and my brother tried to jump the car and connected the jumper in reverse order. He works and sells cars for a living, just giving proof to be very careful even if you do it on a regular basis!
This comment made me feel so much better... I just did the same thing with the jumper cables myself... and I used to sell cars, too! I've jumped a thousand in my time, what a bone head. Just waiting for my fusible link assembly to show up. Thanks for the tutorial.
So is the first picture in this thread a picture of the broken fusible link? I thought mine was broken and bought one off of eBay and it showed up looking just like the 1st picture in this thread so I began to think mine wasn't broke since every picture I could find of that area of the link was like that with the space between the metal in that area.
Were you changing the fusible link because of a problem? What is wrong with your car? If the car starts with a jump but doesn't charge the 12V it could be the main 120A fuse in the trunk on top of the 12V battery. It's tricky to remove because it's actually bolted into the fuse holder. You need to remove the black fuse holder assembly then separate it enough to get to the fuse bolts. The main 120A fuse in the trunk often blows if you try to jump start another vehicle FROM the Prius under the hood. (You should never use a Prius to jump other cars, but it's ok to receive a jump in your Prius from another car) It's harder to blow the fusible link in the main engine bay fusebox.
BTW, when changing any major fuses you should disconnect the 12V battery. NO NEED TO UNHOOK THE HV BATTERY. WHEN THE 12V IS DISCONNECTED THE HYBRID BATTERY IS AUTOMATICALLY DISABLED AND PREVENTED FROM SUPPLYING POWER TO THE REST OF THE CAR. Too many people remove the "orange plug" on the Hybrid battery only to not re-install it properly then have trouble getting their car to READY UP.
My issue was caused by reversed cable on a jump start. I replaced the fusible link from one direct from toyota and mybfash powers up and the remote will lock and unlock doors but it won't ready. When I try to go to drive or reverse it just goes to neutral. Red triangle come on. I did also check all small fuses in the engine bay and under the dash. I replaced a blown ecst I believe it was and the dome one. How Do You know if the 120 amp by the 12 volt battery is bad? From what I read the little white sense wire by the 12 volt battery couldn't cause this. That tiny wire came loose ?
At this point I suggest buying/borrowing a code reader and see what error codes you have. You didn't disturb the orange plug on the HV battery right? If you did you probably didn't reseat it properly. There is no way the car will READY without orange plug being seated properly. Almost everyone who removes the orange plug the first time doesn't re-insert it properly. I get calls from other shops all the time with this problem. The last step when inserting orange plug (2004-2009) is press the handle STRAIGHT DOWN towards the floor (it moves about 1/4") THIS STEP IS CRITICAL. After that it may take 2-3 tries with the ON button to get the car to READY.
If the fusible link looks OK but a problem is suspected, is it possible : 1. It looks OK but it is not. 2. If not sure, is there a specific procedure to test it as opposed to a regular simple fuse ? Thanks
Usually the fusible link is visibly damaged if its damaged. You can check each subfuse it contains with an ohmmeter. Matt, what is the problem with your car?
Thanks, In case you can't see my thread................... 2009 Prius was found dead a few days ago, ran fine the previous day. There was an attempt to jump it via under the hood contact and directly from the battery in the rear, but it did not work. Nothing electrical is working at all. Someone suggested we disconnect the 12v rear battery and jump from under the hood, that did not work. The rear 12v battery is good, has been load tested and is good. The 5 amp and 120 amp fuses at the rear battery are not blown. The pos. lead of the under the hood contact and ground reads 13v with the rear battery connected. The fusible link looks like none are blown. The am2 15 amp fuse is not blown. The last suggestion was that the invertor is / may be bad. At this point..... If the fusible link looks OK but a problem is suspected, is it possible : 1. It looks OK but it is not. 2. If not sure, is there a specific procedure to test the linkable fuse as opposed to a regular simple fuse ? 3. At what point do we say it is likely the inverter or something else and send it off to a professional far far away. The car has been great since new, about 80K miles but to do what we gotta do. Thanks We are kinda remote and would like to solve this if possible. Any more thoughts ? I have attached a few images, the 5 amp fuse was removed when the foto was taken of the 120amp fuse, which seems to look good and the 5 amp fuse was OK too. Thanks 3prongpaul
Any chance there's a good site to buy the fusible link? I did accidentally reversed my cables trying to jump the battery and the 100 amp fuse is clearly blown.
