Looking to install a sub woofer in a custom box and a amp just wanted to know how big i can go without killing my battery
I also wish to install a sub and amp but was just told by Crutchfield that installs of such are not recommended in 2011 Prius? They mentioned affecting the charging system and how it alters its capabilities. I have installed in a 2007 Mazda 5, 4 channel sub, mono sub, 4 speakers and a 10 inch sub and yes, I know they are different vehicles. I see a few posts on sub and amp installs. Anyone wish to share their ideas and how-to's?
Just keep in mind the 12v battery in the Prius is about 1/2 the size of a regular vehicle. You don't want to put excessive load on it.
It will not afect the battery, charging system or the mileage if used with the car in "Ready" Mode. Use a capacitor at the amp and a fuse at the battery. Trust me on this one, 900W RMS since December.
I ran 1900 watts since 2006 with no problems. I recently switched sub amps and downsized to a single 12. Still no problems.
Can anyone share information on their installs; ex: if mounting amp under front seats did the seat get removed after disconnecting negative battery posts to ensure airbag will not get tripped. tips on actual sub installation locations. sub box sizes used and location. AB type amp or other to keep power handling down to minimum. RMS power rating on amp. 4 channel or mono only amp. previous experience in amp/sub installs involved using line out connector to replaced front and rear speakers to 4 channel Profile amp (75 watt per channel) then to Profile Mono amp (1000 watt). this car sounds great. :rockon: Can this be done without affecting mpg performance?
I installed this JVC HU JVC KW-NT3HDT Navigation receiver at Crutchfield Signature With a JL 8W7 powered by a JL 250/1v2 Slash series amp. I put a JL 8W7 with a JL spec box in the trunk. I mounted the amp under the front passenger seat (it's not really mounted, just velcroed down because the shape is a little weird, but it works). The wiring is easy to run from under the seat to the center console (to get the wiring from the amp to the HU) and along the plastic trim on the passenger seat to the trunk area to get to the battery and sub. I haven't noticed anything battery wise. I really doubt it will affect your car's mpg much. The bigger issue is being smart about playing your stereo while the car is off imo. I think that's where you'll run into trouble more likely.
My old system: Head Unit: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X993 Reason for purchase: Because I wanted a unit with a 24bit D/A for maximum sound quality, High Voltage Low Impedence RCAs, Time Alignment to help create an accurate sound stage (the lead vocalist is coming from the center of the dash, not out of the corners of the doors), Bluetooth, and USB capability. Amplifiers: Diamond Audio D9 800.2 (400Watt RMS) very high end amplifier at nearly $2000 retail. Powering the front speakers Diamond Audio D6 1500.1 (1500Watt RMS) Front Speakers: Diamond Audio D971. 7" Midrange component set Retail $1500 Subwoofers: Two Diamond Audio D910D4 10" subs (currently blown) using two Diamond D6 12" subs for now. I have since changed the subwoofer amp to an Arc Audio XXD1500 500w amp and a single Orion XTRPro 12" sub in a vented enclosure. It's still loud and takes up much less room than the old subwoofer system did.
I'm currently running an old school Rockford Fosgate Punch 150 (20+ yrs. old) powering dual JL Audio 10's (10+ yrs. old) and it sounds great along with the stock JBL system. I have noticed any detrimental effects so far. As far as amps, RMS power is important however, from my years of experience back when I was all in to car audio was that reputable brands make the biggest difference. On my very first system I used to run 2 pairs of Boston Acoustics components along with a single 12'' sub using only a single Rockford Fosgate Punch 45 (2 x 22.5 watts + bridge mode for sub) . Then, I had another system using Precision Power 2x50 watt amp that powering the same component speaker and dual 12's loud and clean. So unless, things have changed I'd normally stick to US brand name amps like Rockford Fosgate, Precision Power, Phoenix Gold and JL Audio.
