Figured I'd give you guys an update for my car work in progress: https://picasaweb.google.com/octomo...?authkey=Gv1sRgCNWFkfyYjurmYA&feat=directlink Previous shots here: https://picasaweb.google.com/octomo...authkey=Gv1sRgCPmjvcqxxaHZ4gE&feat=directlink I have to go dynamat the other door now. These doors are really easy to take off and on. Its a joy working on it.
Did you also Dynamat the sheet metal in the street side of the door? That's more important than the plastic door panel.
negative. was far more interested in ease of installation and blocking road noise rather than blocking road noise and enhancing the speakers air sealing. The speakers themselves sound good, but I simply wanted a little less road noise since I spend 2.5 hours a day on the road/highway.
That's what I'm doing. I just got the drivers door done then decided I should stop to do my taxes. I also put a few small pieces on the sheet metal on the passenger compartment side of the door. I rapped on it in different places to find out where the worst vibrations were. probably did overkill on the outer door sheetmetal, used about 3 sq ft of dynamat extreme.If I was going to get serious about it I would block off the holes in the passenger compartment side sheetmetal with something solid.
I doubt you went overkill. Then again my idea of overkill is probably skewed because I worked in car audio for over a decade and a half lol. I completely covered the door skin (interior side) with Dyanmat extreme and I put 3 strips of it inside the door panel (exterior side). It seemed to help some but because there is not a lot of deadening material in the rest of the car it is hard to tell.
I've matched the 13tw5 subwoofer to this amp. It is the the hd900/5 amp. I want to get a sub box that will fit into the pocket in the trunk, or possibly something built into the side that will still allow me to hide it with the cover up top.
Wow, that's probably the best available amp. Keep in mind the usable energy in the HV battery is about 500Wh. I think keeping the HSD computers and the inverter on takes about 200W. That'll leave you 300Wh for driving the car and for the sound.
Using 4ga. cable, a fuse at the 12v battery (LV) connection, and a capacitor before the amp, there are NO issues. Has worked perfect on mine since installation. Same amp. Stored energy in the capacitor is used to prevent any large sudden demands on the battery. Same reason they are used on your homes A/C Unit to prevent throwing the breaker when the compressor kicks in. The fuse disconnects the battery from your system if it shorts out. This saves wear and tear on the amp and the battery.
Unfortunately Shawn is correct. The sound deadening material should be placed on the metal door skin, inside (inside the inner panel) and outside.
I did this with our first two 2010s, and am now putting it on our new 2011... While it may not make a huge change in speaker sound, it does cut down on road noise, and more importantly, when you close the door, it sounds like a Lexus - not a cheap Toyota...
+1 to F8L and rrolff. I just completed my Dynamat install, door skins only. Sounds completely different. Now I don't think I need to add more power (Watts) to have it sound good. Bass is cleaner, doors don't "twang" when spiritedly closed, or when the door handles are released. What's more, the "2 door" Dynamat kit ($70 at Best Buy) took care of ALL FOUR door skins, and even had a few scraps left over
