Battery disconnect?

You can find a fuse by referring to your owner's manual and locating the fuse box under the instrument panel as well as the main relay/fuse box next to the inverter.

You can also disconnect the negative battery cable where it connects to the body, or disconnect the positive cable at the dedicated jumpstart terminal within the main relay/fuse box.

Either cable disconnection assumes that you have a 10 mm metric socket and socket wrench available to you. The 12V battery is located in the right rear corner of the hatch and the main relay/fuse box is next to the inverter on the driver's side of the engine compartment.

If you disconnect the battery cable in the hatch and then close the hatch, you'll have to crawl into the rear of the car, remove the folding hatch floor and locate the access point within the black plastic tray over the spare tire, and find the mechanical hatch release when you are ready to open the hatch again to reconnect the battery cable.

 

You could hook up a trickle charger, one that's capable of being left on indefinitely, ie: it'll monitor battery charge level and reduce charging to just a trickle. I use this one, it's very compact/portable:

CTEK Multi US 3300 | CTEK Battery Chargers

They're a little pricey (though they go on discount sale sometimes, Princess Auto in Canada, currently), and there are cheaper, similar products.

 

Open hatch.
Remove the hatch floor and stow it somewhere.
Remove the storage bin and stow it somewhere. Note you can put both of these items back before closing the hatch, you will just have to move them to get back in.
Remove the small triangular floor piece on the right side as you face the hatch - the one just behind the tail-lamp.
You can now see the 12V battery. The post closest to the tail-lamp is the -ve terminal, and it's best to remove this rather than the +ve terminal (it's safer). You can remove the connection to the body, or the connection to the battery. As Patrick suggests, probably better to remove the connection to the body. Less chance of damaging the battery. Be sure to insulate it in case it moves and connects to the body when you're gone. A rag wrapped around it will do.

Now, if you close the hatch, you can't open it without the 12V supply (electric latch). You will also have to reprogram the radio stations and the auto down/up window. The window is easy. Once you have restored power when you get back, roll the window half way down, then back up and hold the up button for a second or two (I think it will beep when it's programmed).

To restore the car to operational mode, you can use a "booster device" on the front boost terminal and then open the hatch, or you can crawl in and manually release the hatch (centre of hatch just under the hatch floor is a shiny lever) or just put the -ve terminal back on loosely and open the hatch from outside. Then you can finish by tightening the bolt, replacing the storage bin and floor pieces and the above "reprogramming".

Not difficult or dangerous, especially now that you know what the implications are. Do try to avoid rapidly and repeatedly connecting and disconnecting the battery. That's not good for the electronics. Just one disconnect and later, one reconnect.

 

I didn't lose my nav memory points when I replaced my 12 volt battery. I intentionally didn't have any other battery or maintainer in between while the 12 volt was disconnected.

See Patrick's post about the tools. I will trust his statement about the 10 mm socket since I don't remember what sizes I needed.

 

Yes, you will just need a 10mm socket or wrench.

 

No. If the battery is in good condition then it's entirely possible that with the SKS off that the battery could survive ok. The other precautions are mainly taken just in case your battery is not so healthy.

Jumping is an option but the biggest downside is that since the battery isn't rated for "deep cycle" operation it may deteriorate significantly after being run down too flat.

 

I would say there is a high likelihood that the battery will be dead, so your other option is to leave it and plan to spend $200+ for a new 12V battery upon your return. Assuming this is the original equipment battery, it would be OK to replace it after six years of service, anyway.

 

Do note that the SKS WILL turn off on its' own after a few days. Everyone seems to forget that.
RTFM!

Allowing the 12V battery to fully discharge is a "bad thing" (tm). It will damage the battery, shortening its' life.

 

you could also remove the "dome" fuse in the fuse box. it is the top red 15 amp fuse. be aware, you will loose your radio and nav settings.

 

You might find the PDFs at http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...prius-storage-time-limitation.html#post607660 interesting. (Thanks to Google!) It says "In order to store for 10 days or more..." "Disconnect wire harness from exclusive jump starting terminal (found in Junction Block under hood). (Prevent decreasing SOC during storage due to parasitic current drain.)"

You should check your terms to ensure that it is actually covered for that 7 year warranty. Usually batteries are not covered for that length.

Heck, on my 02 Nissan Maxima, the basic warranty was 3 years/36K miles but 12 volt battery was only covered for 1 year. For the point between 1 year and 3 years (IIRC), it was prorated. My 12 volt went bad around the 2 year mark but I didn't know if it was an electrical problem or bad battery. I ended up having to pay to get it diagnosed (turned out to the battery). The prorated battery cost and diagnosis was about the same as buying new one. :/

If you're not going to disconnect the battery or pull the proper fuses and the car will be parked out in the sun, perhaps try to snag a VW solar charger? I posted about it at http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...isconnect-reconnect-cycles-2.html#post1298659. I finally was able to get one for free. Looking at the part and its size, it looks worth more than $5 to me. That combined w/turning SKS off might keep the battery in ok enough shape. Get one w/the OBD2 connector not the cigarette lighter version (which would be useless since the outlets are disconnected/power off when the car is off).

BTW, if you're still on the original 12 volt, it's probably on its last legs anyway.

 

Good for you, congratulations.

Yes, you would open the little rectangular access panel at the rear of the black plastic liner which sits over the spare tire. Then look for a small shiny lever located near the latch mechanism. To open the hatch, you would need to move that lever (which will unlock the latch) and then apply upwards force on the hatch to open.

 

Betcha a nickel that extended warranty doesn't cover the 12V battery, along with many other things.

 

FYI anyone reading this it is 10mm socket and it is hard to reach a few of them. Please make sure you have a long enough extension adapter and a deep 10mm if removing the battery completely. I ended up just bending the bracket holding the 12v down being careful not to put too much pressure on the black brake box thing next to the battery because I didn’t have a long enough wrench extender. I know I am really late to this, but thought I could help with my experience I had today. The screws on that black brake box were impossibly tight. I could not remove them all.