VSC and ABS codes

First place to start with stuff like this is your 12V battery. If it is weak, then codes like this can show up because the voltage isn't high enough to operate the sensors. Search here for "check your 12v" threads. If your voltage in the morning is good enough, like >12.3 before startup and 12.0 during, then look deeper into those codes.

 

Let's focus on the blink codes from the (!) light, as the blink codes from the ABS and VSC lights appear to be undocumented.

11 means "open circuit in main relay 1" and the suspect areas include the ABS #1 relay, the skid control ECU, or the associated wiring harness.

43 means "capacitor malfunction" and the suspect areas include the brake control power supply, ABS #1 fuse, ABS #2 fuse, ABS #3 fuse, or the associated wiring harness.

Therefore I suggest that you check the above-mentioned relay and the fuses. If all are good, you might consider whether your 12V battery is marginal. If so, replace it now. Then clear the skid control DTC and see if any skid control ECU warning lights come back after you've driven the car.

If yes, then you probably should visit your local Toyota dealer for assistance.

 

I would say that your 12V battery is in marginal condition. Even if you didn't have a current problem with the skid control ECU, it would be a good idea to consider replacing the battery in the near future, to reduce the likelihood of a no-start situation.

 

I've been meaning to add that, if part of your ABS/VSC system sets a trouble code due to low voltage, then all of the ABS/VSC functions are offline. If you see 1 ohm resistance at that relay and you have gasping near death 12V battery, then everything that you have described makes sense. If you have a battery charger, put it on over night at 4 amps or less, and get a new battery asap! The two accepted battery options are a new one from your dealer or the Optima Yellowtop kit from elearnaid.com. There are tradeoffs to consider in each case, but the costs are comparable.

 

pgc100,
Did you figure out what the problem was? I am having the same braking problem with my 2006 HiHy. I just pulled the following codes ABS 42, VSC 45, although I'm not getting any (!) codes.

 

I am in the EXACT same situation... I even found 4 inches of water in the battery compartment. I just pulled the drain plug but I have no clue where the water came from. It was crystal clear and I found no rust???

So obviously I replaced my battery with the optima and the BRAKE, (!), ABS & TSC lights lit up like a Christmas tree just a week later. Now I'm at a loss...

What does ABS code 42 mean?????

 

Have you an opportunity to check the three ABS fuses that I previously listed above? If not, I suggest you remove them one by one and use an ohmmeter to verify continuity.

Did you reset the skid control ECU DTC codes? If not, I suggest you do that and see if they reappear or not.

Not sure what to say about the brake dust.

 

Locksmith problem on lost remote

I have posted my problem with the lights VSC, Brakes, exclaimation, and ABS coming on right after the locksmith hooked up his computer to the car.

I would like to know if there are more experiences like that and whether I should go back to the dealer and ask them to try to recharge the battery and then re-set the code. Thanks for original suggestion and any additional thoughts.

This is the first time I post so not knowing how the thread works. I have a 2007 Prius and I lost the remote key. I called a locksmith in NYC and he unlocked the car, cut a duplicate from a new remote (I think he got it from the dealer) He then tried to program the remote but was not able to. He then plugged a computer into some wires underneath the steering wheel. The moment he did that, the VSR, ABS, (!) and brake light all came on. I took it to a Heritage toyota in Burlington and they told me they need to replace the brake actuator. The part is $1700+ and plus 5 hours labor. Could the lock's smith computer really do that kind of damage? What are my options. Thanks for the help. ​

This sounds like low/dead battery to me. If it is still at the dealer, you could politely ask that they put the 12V battery on a charger for several hours and reset the codes. They may need to perform a zero-point calibration, as there is a possibility that the locksmith's computer may have undone something.

 

Here is what the Toyota dealer indicated. If I can get some help to see what they mean
83002 3.00 (I think that is the labor hr). Codes C1203- Engine Control system Malfuction, C1345-Not learning linier valve offse, Diagnosed and found vehicle needs brake actuator asse to cure.

Does that make sense?

Thanks
Clem

 

To summarize, a locksmith hooked up some sort of device to the OBD port, and as a result you now have these two trouble codes in your ABS system. It makes me wonder if (1) the technician was not able to figure out how to perform the init/calibration of the linear solenoid valve or (2) if the ECU was damaged. I am 99% sure that it is #1.

 

Dear Siefert,

Is there a procedure that I can suggest to the dealer's service advisor/manager or the technician that they should follow to perform the init/calibration of the linear solenoid value? Sorry, what is ECU mean?

Thanks
Clem

 

They must use Techstream to perform the initialization. There are a couple of documented instances where these codes appear together, and the initialization procedure solves the problem. They should get on the phone to their technical support if they cannot figure it out. By ECU, I mean the ABS computer.

 

Any one find the meaning of ABS 42 ??

Currently getting this on my ABS Skid ECU