2010 Prius OEM-quality Fog Light Kit Now Available!

Took delivery on the kit and i followed the instructions and the install went perfect. Except for one thing, attach the red wire to the brown wire from the terminal. I'm red green color blind so I had to call my neighbor over to pick the correct colors. Other then that the kit is excellent and really makes a difference. I like the way it fills in up close. It has an excellent flood pattern.
My next question is. Has anyone installed an HID lamp in the fog lamps. I'm thinking it maght be a good option.

AJL

 

Theres a guy on here who has 3000k hids in his prius. Im going,to as soon as the hids come in and I find out why my fogs dont work. Anyone know where I can get another switch?

 

Read post #203 on here. I wrote a short write-up on how to test the switch and the relay to determine where the problem may be if your lights do not work.

If you are saying that the indicating light does not come on the switch when you turn the headlights on, since you say you have checked the ground connection, you probably need to go back and check the bridge connector with the red wire to the brown wire at the ECU. This is the 12V source to the switch and then to the relay. I had to use a pair of pliers to push down on the splice to make sure the metal piece pierced the insulation well enough to make a solid connection with the copper conductor.

 

Hey dwight, on you 203 post should I have the relay connected to the connector when im checking? I checked the prongs on the back of the switch and the ones connecting to the black and red wires have no signal between them. Should it be like this?

 

Iceman,

For checking the switch, it really does not matter whether the relay is connected or not. If you do not have 12V between the black wire (ground) and red wire (+12V) on the back of the switch, then you either have a bad ground connection or a bad connection between the red wire and the brown wire at the ECU. My guess would be the bridge connector that connects the red wire to the brown (12V source), as others on here have reported issues making a good connection with the bridge connector supplied.

The red wire is the +12V source that the switch uses to connect to the white wire when the switch contact is closed. It is also the 12V that engergizes the light on the switch. The white wire goes through the fire wall and is used to energize the relay coil.

Try reading between the red wire and a known good ground connection, a bolt or screw connecting to the frame. Be sure you have the headlight switch in either park or headlight position, as this is when the brown wire is energized. If you read 12V, then you have a bad ground connection. If not, then we are back to the bad 12V source connection.

If you can connect your meter to the black and red wires on the back of the switch, then take a pair of pliers and slowly squeeze on the bridge connector. If this is where the bad connection is, you should be able to see the 12V appear as you add more pressure. This bridge connector is hard to make a good connection with just finger pressure, unless you have really good hand strength. Plus in its location it is hard to get any leverage with just fingers.

Let us know how this works out.

Dwight

 

Ill try it out this weekend. I had trouble like this when I was installing the foglights on my tc. If I cut the brown wire and solder it back with the red wire would this work too? Thats what I did on my tc. Will anything reset on the car if I cut the brown wire for a lil bit?

 

If you make sure that the headlight switch is in the OFF position, there should be no voltage on the brown wire. The solder connection should be a better connection than the bridge connector.

If you want to be really safe, disconnect the negative side of the battery at the body ground connection. Note that you will have to reset some parts of your system, such as driver window Auto up and down, etc. There are other threads on here describing exactly what presets are lost.

 

Hey Dwight, is the brown wire anyways connected to the transmission ecu?

 

Fixed the problem by soldering the red wire to the brown one.

 

Iceman,

Glad to hear you fixed the fog light problem.

The drawing that I have shows the brown wire connected to the Main Body ECU. The brown wire is only energized if the headlight switch is in either PARKING LIGHT or HEADLIGHT position.

Does this answer your question?

Dwight

 

Yup that pretty much answers it. Thanks for all the help Dwight.

 

Anyone know which bus I can tap for power to the switch for the Fogs, not using the ECU or parking/headlights, that will also power down when vehicle is shut down. 2 reasons: To use them as DRL's and so that my Kenwood HU will not Dim (as it should) when parking/headlights are turned on. It was the solid orange wire by the way Spiderman...Thanks.

 

To clarify: Non OEM switch installed on 2010 Prius II Base Model. Locate an "unused" slot from fusebox rated 12V+/15A (or wire), that is hot when vehicle is in "Ready" mode and is cold when vehicle is off. Thanks.

 

If I understand right, and if I remember right there is a yellow wire (ACC) running to the HU. That wire is only energized when the car is in Ready or ACC mode. If you tap into that for your fog light switch, that should give you what you want.

 

Per effective factory WDM to the radio, the only 2 yellow wires are, Rear Left Speaker (-) and (BAT) ECU-B 7.5A. Will have to pull unit to verify if latter is still used, but pretty sure 15A unshared power is required for the Fogs. See attached and correct me if I read the print wrong. Will keep looking for a main bus, as described, I can fuse.

Thanks as always.


http://priuschat.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=28824&stc=1&d=1300064046

 

Right, pin 3 ACC should be it. Now this should just be used as a trigger to the switch/fog light relay, not as a power source. That should come from the connector in the engine bay fuse box.

When I mentioned yellow, I was referring to the HU side of the harness.

Good luck...

 

Desperately need some HELP!

So I installed the fog light assembly today.

Good news...it works.

Bad news...my alarm is now jacked. I purchased the alarm through the dealership, but I believe it is after market. The first night I brought the car home there was an issue with it, and the dealership had to send out a technician to "fix" the problem. I remember he messed with some of the wiring next to the steering wheel where we are now making the bridge between the red and tan wires. No idea what he did then.

So right now, with everything hooked up, the car does NOT automatically set the alarm and lock the doors as it used to. If I set the alarm myself, the alarm starts going off after 3 seconds.

So I figured if I reversed everything I did (unplug the connection to the fuse, unplug the relay and disconnect the bridge with the tan wire) the car should go back to normal. NOPE! Now the alarm acts like it should, sets itself and locks the doors, but it still goes off after 3 seconds. This scenario is obviously worse since I can't control it. The other way at least I can leave the car unlocked without having to deal with the non-stop alarm.

What should I do here??

 

So I took the car into Toyota, and we pulled off the inside panel to see what was going on with this aftermarket alarm system. There were two issues: the sensor had gotten unplugged and the ground had come loose. So it's all fixed now, and running great!

By the way, I also did this entire install without a lift, so it is possible.

I just can't figure out how to screw down the relay to any of those bolts. The space is too tight to get them off and on with the relay in the way. Any suggestions?

 

^ glad you got the alarm thing figured out. Would not have guessed that.

I didn't even attach my relay to anything... of course mine is behind the dash. Where is yours? If in the engine compartment, I would just zip-tie it to something sound.

 

I am currently installing these right now. It is my understanding that others who have installed these have noticed the plastic isn't completly flush with the bumper? Meaning, I can still see a little bit of light coming through where the tabs are. Is this the case?