Weird Electronic issue after oil change

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by PeterPrius, Feb 19, 2011.

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  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Patrick, do you see what you've done with an obscure, off-the-cuff acronym, LOL.


    I believe DMM equals Digital Multi Meter.

    Hook up to the positive terminal (the copper bar in the engine compartment fuse box, and ground (there's a bolt protruding from the engine directly adjacent, that works well).

    If your battery is in top condition you should get a voltage reading of 12.6 volts or better. If significantly lower, the voltage draining events have been taking a toll. A few sessions hooked up to a lowish amperage charger might restore it.

    Don't trust voltage readings taken directly after a charging attempt. You need to drive the car a bit before taking readings, otherwise they will read high.

    I use a CTEK MULTI US 3300, works well (there are a lot of similar ones):

    http://smartercharger.com/battery-chargers/
     
    #21 Mendel Leisk, Mar 2, 2011
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  2. PeterPrius

    PeterPrius Hers is a 2009 Prius, non-SKS

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    She keeps her foot on the brake, presses Park, presses the Power button and the combo meter and MFD go dark. The engine is off. That's what I believe IG-OFF to be!

    After it is "off" she pulls out the key and opens the door, pretty much simultaneously. Car starts right back up, engine and displays. The MFD appears as normal, meaning it doesn't give a blank SOC which one gets when one presses the Power button without the brake being on.

    UPDATE: She just texted me: she pulls out the key just after she opens the door.
     
    #22 PeterPrius, Mar 2, 2011
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    A very interesting problem. Does this happen all the time or only once in a while? If the latter, is the frequency of occurrence increasing? It would help if she can demonstrate the problem at the dealership.

    It sounds like the Power Source Control ECU is confusing fob removal with the driver's pressing the POWER button.

    Since you've bought the Optima battery, I suggest that you replace the 12V battery and see if there's any improvement. If not, you'll probably need to wait until the problem can be demonstrated to your dealer's service writer before you can expect any warranty repair action to be taken.
     
    #23 Patrick Wong, Mar 2, 2011
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  4. PeterPrius

    PeterPrius Hers is a 2009 Prius, non-SKS

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    My sweetheart was able to replicate the problem. Here's the sequence:

    Drives.
    Comes to a stop in the driveway, keeps foot on brake as she presses Park.
    A/C is still running when she
    presses Power button. All displays "disappear".
    Removes key to begin getting out of the car.
    Car turns back on.
    Happens only when the A/C is left on while parking and powering down car.

    My next concern is that I don't see how Automotive Aves can offer a warranty if their techs are not Prius Certified.
     
    #24 PeterPrius, Mar 4, 2011
  5. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    You replaced the 12V and still have this problem?

    The Optima instructions mention using a battery maintainer so as to not loose radio presets and skip the automatic window reset. Whether or not you have replaced the battery yet, I suggest disconnecting the battery for at least 5 minutes to give all ECUs a chance to reset. If with new battery and complete reset you still have problems, then take it back to Automotive Aves and complain.

    Just by-the-by, there are a couple of good places in Denver/Boulder that specialize in hybrids. Adopt-A-Part and Slipstream Automotive. You don't necessarily need a Toyota Certified Hybrid tech (and there is no ASE hybrid certification yet). In my opinion, a hybrid shop will treat you much better than a Toyota dealer.
     
    #25 seilerts, Mar 4, 2011
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  6. PeterPrius

    PeterPrius Hers is a 2009 Prius, non-SKS

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    I'm too chicken to replace the battery. And at this point I'm not willing to have Automotive Avenues or the dealership point the finger at me because this car is getting weirder by the day.

    I think Patrick Wong is onto something about the fob. Twice in the last 2 days the car doesn't start "normally", meaning the usual routine of insert the fob, press brake pedal, press Power button. Doesn't display a thing, just blank.

    The battery has a very good charge (i tested after driving it yesterday).

    When removing the fob in defeat, about 10 seconds later the car starts. Yes - no one in the car and it starts!

    The gas gauge blanks even though it has a full tank of gas.
    Clock reads 1:00
    Trip A, Trip B are set to 0.0
    MFD Consumption mileage is reset.

    While started I check the 12V voltage but the Display button doesn't allow me to do that 1-2 touch screen tap dance three times.

    After we're able to get the car turned off, for sure, it starts up via the normal process but everything on the displays is still funky.

    I have an appt with the dealership as it's under the warranty. I know, it doesn't really mean anything but at this point I have to play by the rules and have a certified Prius tech check it out.

    This car is pretty much like a schizophrenic Herbie the Love Bug. That got me to think: since this car began its life as a rental car (we found out last week; and AutoAves claims they actually did not know what condition the car was in nor where it was from, but I walked into a dealership with the VIN and found out myself, due diligence be darned to heck) I keep thinking this is an SKS Prius and the dealership switched out the FOB or something. I really don't know what to make of it.

    I just hope I can speak directly to the Prius tech so my explanation of the weirdness doesn't get lost in the translation via the service manager.

    Thanks for the Slipstream and Adopt-A-Part info. That's where I'll be taking my 2005, past warranty Prius.

    Peter
     
    #26 PeterPrius, Mar 11, 2011
  7. pEEf

    pEEf Engineer - EV nut

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    I'll say again; this MUST be a problem with the 12v battery or it's connections. The only way the MFD and clock will reset, is if the battery voltage goes below about 6 volts!
     
    #27 pEEf, Mar 14, 2011
  8. richard schumacher

    richard schumacher shortbus driver

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    If it can't run the self-diagnostic, that's a big fat clue that the 12V battery is near death or its connections are very poor. If you have a voltmeter confirm the voltage at the jump point under the hood, with the car OFF.
     
    #28 richard schumacher, Mar 14, 2011
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