burning a backup nav dvd

How did you copy the disk to your PC? As individual files or did you just make an ISO or NRG image of the disk? Since you said you used ISO9660, it sounds like you copied the individual files.. The image method may be slower, but it works. When you do individual files, you may be missing some hidden files or special attributes that prevent creation of a faithful copy of the original disk..

I also recommend burning DL disks at the slowest speed and turning on the compare/verify; I've backed up my Pioneer nav disks and a Toyota disk for a friend with a Lexus, and I've wasted a disk each time because I forgot to switch to slow speed.. The disk seems to burn fine at the fastest speed, but when it does the compare, there are unreadable sectors found. Burning at the slow speed on the other hand works every time- perfect copies that work fine in the nav systems..

 

Has anyone tried this on a mac ?

And does toast 5.2.1 work in a similar way ? I usually leave verify on but have not tried the slow speed.

Would be nice to have since I live in a high definition area and remember a post long ago saying they lost that with a dealer update.

 

I wanted a backup too, so I tried the image method and it wouldnt work. I got the same message. The disks I used were RW and I was wondering whether the unit didnt like RW disks..
I used Alchohol 120% for the for making the image and dvd decrypt for burning.
Anybody help here..

Chris <_<

 

I believe c4 is correct; use the image method.

I have made several backups using that method and the NAV system hasn't had any problems reading them. I use DVD Decrypter exclusively (ISO-->READ, ISO-->WRITE).

 

Well, we're talking about circa 8 GB worth of data which the NAV system expects to be on a single disk. Thus, I'm not sure the problem is with RW as much as it is with the fact that the data spans more than one disk.

So, you'll either have to use DL media or cut down the files so they'll fit on a single disk. There is a method for accomplishing the latter. It involves ripping the NAV DVD and then "zeroing out" various regional files for which you may have no use.

 

Many DVD readers do have trouble reading some disks, so it could be the RW disks (do they make dual-layer disks in RW??? I've been using the Verbatim DVD+R DL, which are expensive- especially if you make a coaster out of them..)

Again, burn in image mode, slowest speed your burner supports, turn on the verification feature so that it checks your freshly burned disk against the image. The only other thing that I can think of that might cause media rejection, and I can't remember the exact details, is that there's an ID field on the DVD that is supposed to be set by the burner indicating the type of disk (ie DVD-ROM, DVD+R, etc), and some burners set it, and others supposedly always identify disks as DVD-ROM- I've got one of the latter, but this may or may not make a difference; there's probably hacked firmware available if you do happen to have a drive that identifies media..

 

Only brand of DL disks I'll use. Prices, although still somewhat steep, have come down dramatically, though. I mean, it wasn't unusual to see those Verbatim +R DL blanks going for 10 bucks a pop earlier in the year. Now, I'm seeing 10-packs for $20-$25.

 

You'll want to set this "booktype bitsetting" to be dvd-rom. You may need hacked firmware, see rpc1.org for more information. You'll need to use dvd+r's to set the booktype, as -r's have it preset from the factory for dvd-r (can't be changed). DVD+R DL drives burn all DL's as dvd-rom, that's probably why DL's work and SL's don't. You should burn ALL dvd's as dvd-rom, they just work better in just about everything. If you are looking for a drive to buy, get an NEC and get liggy and dee's hacked firmware, then use their utility to set the booktype to dvd-rom for all types.

Nate

 

I used DVD+R DL and it has RW stamped on it as well. The writer reports them as RW, but regret I dont know much about them at this stage. I'm beginning to think you used -R, and maybe thats the problem I'm having. Could you confirm exactly what disks (make & type) you used for a successful backup.

Chris

 

I used Verbatim DVD+R DL disks and they also have "RW" stamped on them (near the bottom of the disk). The "RW" is sort of a trademark thing for the PLUS format. There really is no such creature as an RW (re-writeable) DL disk.

My suggestion, at this point, would be to use Decrypter all the way through the process and use the speed specified on the disk when writing (I believe I used 2.4x).

 

Tag

Thanks for the help.

Chris.

 

Well, I did everything by the book..+R DL disk, DVD Decrypter ISO Read and Write 2.4 X speed, verified it after, no problems, doesnt work in the car..
Im wondering if the European Aisin unit is different from your Denso unit..At least I believe them to be different.
I might try -R disks next. It gives me something to do as the nights get colder!
I notice naterprius was suggesting a hacked firmware but didnt really understand all that and its a brand new NEC 3540A burner that I really dont want to mess with.
Does anybody have any other suggestions?

Cheers,

Chris

 

As for using DVD+RW, I have successfully used that in the NAV, of course with only one or two regions, since it is only SL.

 

Oh, the 3540 is a great drive for hacked firmware!

Here's the code:
http://liggydee.cdfreaks.com/download/3540/103bt_rpc1.zip

Here's the utility to flash, then change the booktype with:
http://binflash.cdfreaks.com/#download
(Get the Win32 GUI version 1.22).

I use a 3520, almost an identical drive.

Just be sure your existing firmware is 1.01 or something similar before flashing.

Run the utility to change the booktype to DVD-ROM for all three types of discs. Your drive will work better when you are done!

This is really quite straightforward. You can post here or PM me if you have any further questions or hesitations.

Nate

 

Thanks Nate, I'll try that and let you know..I'll have to get some more disks at the weekend, I've scrapped what I had..I'll flash the firmware tonight, then I'll know whether I need a new drive as well...No really I trust you..Just joking..

Thanks again,

Chris.

 

DVD+ use the RW logo because they are not technically the DVD format so they are not allowed/certified to use the DVD logo.

It's the same as Philips decertifying many copy-protected music CDs from carrying the "COMPACT disc" logo because they violate the Red Book CDDA standard for audio cds.

This is different from +/- R and +/- RW that specifies if the disc is write-once, or rewritable. Please differentiate carefully because it seems a few people are mixing it up.

I have my 3540 flashed, and the DVD+RWs I put out are bitset to dvd-rom. + format plus bitsetting is great for making burns compatible with almost any player out there which technically only accept DVD-ROM such as my gen2 Playstation 2.

 

I ordered some Verbatim DVD+R DL discs from newegg, they probably won't arrive until next week. I'll try to make a backup of 4.2 when the blanks get here. Just remember, sometimes DVD burners need to make a few coasters every time a new brand is introduced to it. Kind of sucks for $4 DL's, but I bought 10 of them for this reason.

Stay away from TDK's. I've had nothing but problems with them, in my Lite-on and in my NEC.

Nate

 

Chris, the only possible issues could be that the drive was not a true 3540 or that you lose power during the flash. Like I stated earlier, just be sure that you have a 1.0x on there before going to 1.03. If you bought the drive from Mad Dog or Dell or something you need slightly different firmware, Liggy and Dee have that as well.

As far as power goes, either use a UPS, or take your chances. (Incredibly rare issue).

You will need to restart the computer, set the Region back to Region 1 (for video) and don't forget to rerun the utility to set/check the booktype. Congrats! You will now have an uncrippled, ultra-fast, ultra-compatible DVD burner.

Nate