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Replaced 12v Battery but Car is Still Dead

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Arlo, Feb 8, 2011.

  1. Arlo

    Arlo Junior Member

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    About a week ago I tried to start my 2005 Prius and nothing turned on. I then noticed that the door locks and interior lights were completely off. After a bit of searching online (and basic intuition) I figured the battery dead. Of course, finding the damn thing took more searching online and then opening the trunk took another trip inside. I was originally going to jump start the car (the front is not accessible for me because of where it is parked and I do not own a portable battery charger) but I read in a forum post that you could simply hook up the Prius battery (or the jump points under the hood) to another car battery and if the lights and interior stuff come on, it is a sure sign your Prius 12v battery is dead.

    So...I located a 12v battery at a dealer and brought it home today to install it. I was unbelievably careful in the entire process, making sure no connections were left exposed during the swap. When I finally got the new battery in, I noticed that the power light in the car had turned on (perhaps the interior lights were on too but it was still light outside [and cold as poop] so I did not think to look). I hopped in the car and pressed the power button (the key was not in the ignition, it was inside the house) and everything powered down.

    I went and retrieved the key, put it in the ignition and pressed Power...nothing. Nothing turned on at all. I pressed it several times, brake pedal depressed, and every 5-6 presses I noticed the engine light (picture of the engine, or something) would flash on and off. The door locks still do not work and the car still will not turn on.

    What do I do? What else could be wrong here? Is it possible that something major (e.g., the larger, more expensive engine) is broken?

    Thanks for the help!
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    A couple of questions:

    - Did you buy the correct 12V battery from a Toyota dealer?
    - Did you ensure that the battery's positive terminal is connected to the positive battery cable that has a red plastic cover?

    and a suggested action plan assuming the above is good:

    1. Disconnect the 12V negative terminal cable where it connects to the body. Check the tightness of the 12V negative terminal cable where it connects to the battery.
    2. Check the tightness of the 12V positive terminal cable connector.
    3. Allow 5 minutes to elapse from your performance of #1 above.
    4. Reconnect the 12V negative terminal cable to the body. Ensure that the bolt securing the cable to the body is tight.
    5. Open the driver's door. Do the interior cabin lights appear bright?
    6. Turn on the headlights. Are they bright?
    7. Turn off the headlights. Fully depress the brake pedal, and press the POWER button. What happens?

    Good luck.
     
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  3. Arlo

    Arlo Junior Member

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    Hi Patrick,

    Thanks for the quick reply. I decided to post to this forum, in part, because of how good your responses have been to other posters.

    I have not had a chance to test the battery connections because it was late (and 6 degrees) last night when i got your reply and now I am at work. I plan to test this route this afternoon when I get home.

    As to the possibility of the wrong battery, I would imagine it to be pretty unlikely. The dealership used my VIN to look up the battery so unless the guy screwed it up after that, I should have the right one. It looked just like the battery I removed from the car. Is there an easy way to check if it is the correct battery?

    I am also pretty sure the negative post cable and body mount are pretty secure. The latter produced a tiny spark when I rested it in the hole to begin securing it (which I took as a good sign that the battery was functional). I suppose I will test the tightness of it and the others, as well as disconnecting and allowing it to rest for a moment before reconnecting everything and crossing my fingers.

    I am worried that if I have to tow the vehicle (a chore in its own right given its place in the driveway) I will have to rent a car to get my daughter to Sesame Street Live this Friday.
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Arlo,

    I noticed that your profile shows you have a base model. I assume this means that your car does not have the Smart system. In that case it probably was equipped with the smaller of two possible 12V batteries installed in 2G vehicles.

    Since you say the new battery looked like the old, the other item to check is to make sure that the battery polarity is correct: as you look at the battery with the terminals closest to you, the positive terminal should be on the left. Please make sure that you can see the + marking on the battery case, which identifies that terminal.

    The reason this may be a concern is that the Classic Prius (which came with an original equipment battery of the same physical size as non-Smart 2G) has the battery mounted on the left side of the trunk, hence the battery terminal polarity is reversed as compared to 2G. If you were sold a battery for Classic (by mistake) and did not notice the terminal polarity issue, that would be a big problem for your car.

    Once you've given the ECUs a chance to reset by temporarily disconnecting 12V power, and have determined that the battery connections are tight, see whether the cabin lights and headlights are bright. This will show you that the 12V battery is producing good power.

    Then, see if the car will become READY. If yes, then you are done.

    If it doesn't become READY, see if you can at least cycle between the IG-OFF, ACC-ON, and IG-ON modes by repeatedly depressing POWER without your foot on the brake pedal.

    If you can get to ACC-ON, can you see the MFD turn on? If yes, see if you can turn on the stereo.

    If you can get to IG-ON, do the instrument panel warning lights appear? Can you raise and lower the power windows?
     
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  5. Arlo

    Arlo Junior Member

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    Just a quick update (I still have to teach until 4:15 so I have not had time to check the connections yet). I called the Toyota dealership and they double checked my VIN against the battery they say they sold me (according to their sales/inventory) but this at least suggests that the battery itself is the correct battery. Of course, I suppose the parent company could have put the wrong battery in the wrong box but I am going to hope that is not the case. Now just to see if it has any power in it and if it's completely connected. I will post an update, hopefully an exuberant and positive one, later this evening.
     
  6. Arlo

    Arlo Junior Member

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    I was unable to get home before dark (and extreme cold) so checking the connections on the battery will have to wait until tomorrow. I did, however, try one more time to put the key in the ignition and start it up. Instantly I noticed that the Power Light lit up (the backlight) and an orange light in the middle of the Power button began to blink. Also, every other time that I pressed power, the Parking light button would blink once as would the picture of the engine light that is on the dash.

    I tried to turn on the headlights, lock/unlock the door, turn on cabin lights, etc. and I still have nothing happening. Not sure if this is any more help in assisting me to diagnose the problem but more it is always better to have too much data than too little. I will still check the connections in the morning and report back.
     
  7. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    It is possible that you were sold a dud -- sat on the shelf too long and self discharged. Check to see if you have 12.5V or more at the battery terminals.
     
  8. RobH

    RobH Senior Member

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    Another possibility is that the battery connections were somehow reversed. Use a voltmeter to confirm that the positive terminal is in fact outputting +12V. If something is/was reversed, several fuses would have popped. The easiest to check would be the dome light fuse, and/or the 100A fused link inside the fusebox in the engine compartment.
     
  9. Arlo

    Arlo Junior Member

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    I do not own a voltmeter so I can think of no way to test the battery aside from ripping it back out and taking it to an auto parts store to test it. I am going to check a few connections on the battery terminals and the ground and hope for the best. Man, it is still so cold outside though (wind chill of -13)!
     
  10. Arlo

    Arlo Junior Member

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    Checked battery, positive and negative terminals are in the places they should be and the cables are all secured properly

    I just disconnected the battery, left it disconnected for 5 minutes, and then reconnected everything. Still not starting but symptoms seem more positive (maybe I am being optimistic?). When I inserted the key in the ignition and pressed power, the green light in the power button came on. when i pressed it again it flashed the engine symbol at me and turned the light in the power button red. I am almost positive I heard something turn on under the hood, a light rumble/vibration type sound for a few seconds. It is certainly a sound I have heard during normal turning on/off of the vehicle so it has me hoping that perhaps the solution is in sight.

    Any ideas?
     
  11. ursle

    ursle Gas miser

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    +1, batteries are usually sold discharged.
     
  12. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Voltmeters are dirt cheap. Harbor Freight even has one that is free w/purchase on a coupon. It looks like the Fisher Price version but it works just fine. You'd be able to use it to test fuses and the fusible link for continuity as well.
     
  13. Arlo

    Arlo Junior Member

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    I give up. I called the AAA to come test the charge on the battery and the guy forgot the equip needed to test it. He did, however, bring a 12v battery charger that he used to try to jump the vehicle but this did not work at all. In fact, nothing changed from when it was hooked up to a charger to when it was not (no additional lights, door locks, no start up, etc.). He finally gave up and said he would be happy to have it towed for me so now they are arranging for a tow truck that also has dollies and can move the thing out of my driveway. I am having it towed to the dealer so I will let you know what they diagnose as the problem. I am hoping, at this point, that it is just a fuse or something or a bad relay/wiring harness somewhere. At least that would be a, relatively, cheap repair. And maybe I can return the battery I bought if it turns out that the old one was just fine.

    Thanks for all the help guys.
     
  14. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    When was the last time that the car was driven? How many days elapsed from that point until the first time that you unsuccessfully tried to start the car?

    I agree with your decision to turn the problem over to the dealer.
     
  15. Arlo

    Arlo Junior Member

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    It had not been more than a few days (3, at most). I drive my 94 mustang to and from work every day and the Prius is my wife's car (car seat doesn't fit well in my car). I did notice that our gas mileage had slipped down to the mid 30s lately. Now I know I need a new air filter and that could knock a few miles off the mpg but we normally get 44, so perhaps that was a symptom of a larger problem? It has been so snowy and icy lately that I attributed the lower mpg to poor traction.
     
  16. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    OK, if you saw that tiny sign of life then the implication is that the 120A MAIN fuse located at the positive battery terminal is OK.

    I would say that automotive batteries are usually well-charged. For example the 12V battery I bought for my 2007 a few months ago measured 12.9V out of the box. If the battery voltage is below 12.6V then the plates will start to sulfate.

    Yes, perhaps a fuse had blown. Of course, if that happened that would raise a question regarding why did it blow and will it blow again.
     
  17. wildbottom

    wildbottom New Member

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    Probably a good idea to keep a Digital Multimeter in your Prius(or any car) for checking fuses.
     
  18. Arlo

    Arlo Junior Member

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    You are right, that fuse appears to be intact. What other fuse and fuseable link the mechanic was talking about, I am not sure. I was on my way into the theater to see Sesame Street Live and didn't have much time to have him elaborate. He did say, however, that he thinks AAA jumped it with the wires crossed (Egon is upset somewhere) and that blew the fuse. He said that had I just hooked up the new battery, my problems would likely have been solved. But instead, I decided to get AAA out here once to check the charge on the battery and while I was at work they talked my wife into letting them try to jump it. It was unsuccessful so I bought and installed a new battery, but it was too later.

    He also said my serpentine belt looked worn and my transmission fluid was dark. Just before I got off the phone it sounded like he was attributing one of these other issues to the car "trying to run on the engine too much." Sounded like a weird explanation to me but I opted out of the services anyway, planning to do the belt myself and let someone else get dirty with the tranny (but for cheaper than the dealer).

    So hours spent freezing outside in the cold, $130 battery that I already installed, and now about $1000 (his estimate) to cover about $300 worth of diagnosis and, I guess, $700 in parts and labor. Oh, and I had to get 3 separate tow truck companies out here before the AAA woman finally understood that we needed dollies to move the damn thing out of the driveway.

    Oh well, I am glad I decided to teach summer classes. It looks like that extra salary will go to paying for this!

    Thanks for all your help guys!
     
  19. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Well, if the jumpstart was botched, then you are lucky if only the fusible link assembly needs to be replaced (which is a 5" long clear and white plastic box with various fusible links within, located in the main relay/fuse box near the inverter.) The repair price seems high if that is the only problem.

    It is certainly possible that the inverter would be destroyed, and in that case you would be well into four-digits for its replacement.

    Had you told us in your OP that a jumpstart had been attempted then we would have immediately come to the conclusion that it had been botched.

    In any event, good luck with your car's repairs.
     
  20. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    OK so now you're saying that the AAA guys tried to jump start it before you got the new battery. So it was probably already toasted before you even tried the new battery. That would make a bit more sense, because if the new battery was correctly installed you'd think everything would have been ok.

    It's pretty disturbing how often we get stories here of people letting someone jumpstart their prius and it ending in disaster.