replacing 2004 Prius Transmission dealer wants $5693

It would be interesting to hear why you think the transaxle needs to be replaced. What is the odometer reading, what are the driveability symptoms, and what DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) has the car logged?

Assuming that the dealer's diagnosis is correct and you are willing to take a chance on a salvage part, you may be able to buy a salvage transaxle for ~$1K or so. My guess is that your independent shop may charge you $1K for labor.

The only problem will be if the salvage transaxle doesn't work. Although the salvage yard may replace the transaxle for you, your independent shop will charge you for the additional labor since its not their fault the part didn't work.

 

If you approach this shop with the idea that a common practice is to replace the Prius trans with low mileage salvage, but hardly anyone does it because it is a scary hybrid, then maybe they will do it for not a whole lot of money because it is a potential source of new business. Also, PC user exstudent of Long Beach has the same problem that you do so it might be helpful to compare notes.

You should be able to find someone who will do it for $1500 - $2000. It all depends on if you source the salvage trans yourself, which usually means no labor warranty, or have the shop do it and pay their markup in order to get the warranty, and finally the condition (mileage) of the salvage trans.

 

CVT equipped Nissan Muranos use pulleys and a belt. They are NOTHING like that of the power split device in a Prius. You can read about them at Nissan CVT Warranty Extension . Nissan extended the warranty on them (see Nissan CVT Warranty Extension).

Compare that to Prius Palm Mileage Simulator and Toyota Prius - Power Split Device.

 

i would call around and explore the net to see if you can find an independent shop that has done one before. but i wouldn't do anythink until convinced it's actualy the tranny. all the best!

 

Check out Luscious Garage and Arts Automotive since you are in CA. Both are experienced, independent Prius repair facilities and have informative web sites.

JeffD

 

Let's all back up here for a moment. Did you get the triangle with the Enginer pack on? Did you and/or the dealer, try resetting the codes and seeing if they recurred with the pack off? You mention current sensor in the other thread -- the Enginer pack attaches to the system main relays which are right next to the current sensor.

 

I'm agree with JeffD. Call Luscious and Arts to ask them how much they'll charge for diagnostic. Always good idea to get 2nd or even 3rd Opinion.

 

That's a bad sign by itself. The 12V battery lists for $140. Replacement by a dealer should not be more than $200. You definitely need a 2nd opinion from a different dealer or an independent specializing in hybrids before proceeding.

 

There are plenty of good used Prius Gen2 transaxles in California. This is because the cars are popular, they get in wrecks, insurance companies are "scared" of fixing hybrids so they often "total" the car. There is also little demand for the Gen2 transaxles because they are generally very reliable.

A used Gen2 transaxle with low mileage should cost well under $1000 with warranty from a recycler. I've paid as little as $500 for them. It is usually easier/cheaper to replace the entire unit than try to fix whatever is wrong internally.

If you're powetrain warranty has expired, find an independent shop to help you. It will be way cheaper than the dealer, especially if they are willing to use a "recycled" part...and being a Prius owner wouldn't you'd rather use a recycled part from a wrecked Prius than ship a new part all the way from Japan??

Gen2 transaxle replacement is relatively easy, much easier than Gen1 and not that much harder than a typical modern front wheel drive car like an Echo/Yaris/Corolla etc. Since whoever does the work will not be opening the transmission, a transmission shop is not required, Show the steps below to your regular mechanic. If they can change a transmission in a Yaris, they should be able to do a Prius. The only big difference is the inverter assembly.

These are the basic steps; (I'm doing this from memory so I'll update this list as I think of things)
1-Lift up car about 10" to 18". I usually use rampstands under the back wheels and jackstands on the front pinch welds.
2-Remove Orange Plug from HV battery pack. Disconnect 12V battery ground. At this point it is near impossible to get hurt by electricity.
3-Remove windshield wipers
4-Remove wiper cowl and wiper motor/tray assembly
5-remove left and right plastic splash guards below engine/transmission/wheel wells.
6-remove black plastic cover over radiator/front of inverter. About 6 plastic barbs with Phillips heads, turn 1/4 turn to pop out the center of barbs.
7-Drain inverter/transaxle coolant (24mm drain plug on transmission in line with one of the cooling hoses)
8-Remove inverter assembly (on top of transaxle) by first removing the cover then disconnecting orange HV wires and smaller electrical connections, remove inverter small bleeder hose bracket and two cooling hoses, one at the reservoir, one on the front side of the inverter. Three 12mm bolts along with 10mm "ground strap" bolt hold inverter into car.
9-Drain transaxle fluid (other drain plug on transmission, 10mm hex)
10-Disconnect 2 small (heater hose sized) coolant lines from front of transaxle. There is another hose same size that connects one side of transaxle to the other, leave it be.
11-Disconnect wiring harnesses/plugs from transaxle all around.
12-Disconnect steering linkage at drivers floor under black plastic cover where it meets steering rack (mark for easy reassembly).
12a-Remove axle nuts - You should "unpeen" the nut first then use a 30mm 12pt socket. This is a great tool for the job Amazon.com: Schley (SCH65400) Toyota / Lexus 30mm Front Axle Lock Nut Remover Kit: Home Improvement Have a helper step on brake pedal if wheel is turning.
13-Remove lower subframe. Note, this is easier than most cars since the Gen2 steering rack has no hydraulic or electrical connections (the power steering motor on the Prius is up high under the dash).
a) disconnect lower ball joints from subframe (two 17mm nuts, one bolt each side)
b) disconnect tie rod ends from steering knuckles (17mm castle nuts, cotter pins)
c) unbolt stabilizer links from sway bar or strut (one end only)
d) remove bottom center engine mount, two 19mm bolts
e) Support subframe with jack. Remove four big bolts (19mm) holding subframe to frame
f) slowly lower subframe/steering rack assembly. Unhook ball joints, Let the struts dangle from the top.
g) remove both drive axles. This tool makes it easy to pop the axles out of the tranny Steck Manufacturing 71410 Axle Popper Wedge and Shim Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive
14)-Install engine hangers into top of engine, support engine from top with cherry picker or similar.
15)-Install good transmission jack under transmission. Note, the transaxle weighs more than the engine and more than most trannies so be ready for the weight. If you're a home mechanic, use this HF jack, it's about perfect for the job with jack handle orientated out the drivers side of the car.
16)-Loosen the eight or so 14mm head bolts between the transaxle and engine. Only loosen a turn or two right now. Two bolts on the top with heads on drivers side. The others around the perimeter with heads on the passenger side, including two bolts that hold a tin plate and black plastic filler panel where the starter would be on a non Hybrid Toyota.
17) Remove engine air cleaner box, and directly related vacumm hoses and electrical wires that restrict engine from being lowered about 6-8 inches. Contrary to Toyota service manual there is no need to remove the AC compressor, disturb engine coolant/cooling lines, ECU wiring under dash, exhaust or fuel lines if you are only lowering the engine a few inches to remove transaxle.
18) Remove 2 engine mount bolts (14mm heads) on passenger side engine mount from above. From underneath, remove 2 engine mount nuts (use 14mm deep socket) that connect to the same passenger side engine mount. Remove bracket betwen exhaust pipe and transaxle (14mm bolts)
19) Remove the big tranny nut (17mm I think) from above that holds the transaxle "spike" into the transmission mount on drivers side.
20) Gently lower engine and transmission together about 4-8 inches. Keep an eye on hoses/wires etc so nothing gets stressed as you lower them.
18) Remove the transaxle to engine bolts you previously loosed.
19) Pull transaxle away from engine. May need a prybar to get things started. As soon as the transaxle is far enough out to clear the "flywheel" (about 2-3 inches away) lower the transaxle by itself then pull it out from the driver side. You can push the engine towards the passenger side to give you another inch or two. If the spike it too high for rolling out the tranny under the wheel well, remove the spike bracket from the top of the transaxle. NOTE, unlike most automotic tranny cars there are no flex plate bolts to undue, so again, another area where the Prius is easier than a typical modern car to remove the transmission.
20) Raise engine to normal height and support if you are not putting in the replacement tranny right away...this will reduce stress on hoses/cables etc until you are ready to install replacement.
21) Compare replacement transaxle to original, move over any brackets, connectors, hoses etc from old unit. Be especially noteful of the two metal alignment dowels between the engine and transaxle.
22) Install by following steps in reverse.
23) Be careful refilling the fluids and bleeding the inverter cooling system.
24) Have wheel alignment checked/adjusted since you disturbed front end.

It takes me about 5-6 hours to swap a Gen2 transaxle without a lift i.e.car just on jackstands. First timers should take about 10-12 hours, less if they've worked on similar cars like Yaris/Corolla etc.

note 04/05 transaxles have slightly different electrical connectors than 06-09 but they can be swapped over.

 

Nothing when it comes to a Prius. The proper term in transaxle since the transmission also contains the differential which connects to the drive axles, but people refer to them as transmission, transaxle, tranny, etc. All mean the same.

Kind of like how people call the CD/tape player in their dash "a radio". Not entirely correct, but everyone knows what you mean. If you are more comfortable using the word transmission instead of transaxle, no problem.

 

Uhm...nice memory.

 

First things first. I know that for many people it may be difficult to accept, but just because it is a national franchise or otherwise carries a national moniker does NOT mean that they are literally qualified to properly repair the brands that they deal in. The fact of the matter is that you are increasingly hard-pressed to find "good" mechanics (read: troubleshooters) at any dealers anymore. I work on equipment, albeit not automobiles at this point, and I can tell you from a couple of decades of experience that technicians are trained to troubleshoot by flow charts. The problem is that so many issues fall somewhere outside the parameters of a flowchart and dealers are not willing to do the ethical thing and take the knocks that come with the learning curve for these issues, opting instead to pass the "flowchart designated" fees on to the consumer. I am about 99.5% sure that this was the deal in your case. Maybe the car needs a transmission, and maybe it doesn't. Either way, its not a black mark on the Toyota brand, its just your particular car. If I were you, I would locate a good reputable ToyoLex garage and have the car towed there. If they verify that it is indeed the transmission, order the used one, print out 3prongPaul's excellent instructions and have them replace it. Also, if I read correctly that you actually paid to have the car towed back immediately after the supposed "fix", I would be raising Hell with the service manager about it. That tow should be on their dime.

 

I've done a ton of Gen1 tranny swaps, only a couple of Gen2.

All I did was think of what is different between Gen1 and Gen2...Gen1 I could probably do blindfolded at this point because it is so ingrained in my memory ....and why am I doing so many Gen1's? Because most dealers don''t properly service them !

 

Did you mess with your Enginer converter when you put in the new BMS? It is possible to get this code if you are putting out too much current at too high SoC. Has the dealer reset the MIL and taken the car for a test drive with your pack off?

 

Has this car ever been in a collision?

 

Always ask for dealer for error subcode (many codes have a subcode, sometimes called INF code)

P0A90 can have subcodes of 239, 241, 602, 240, 242, 251, 509, 604, 605.

if they said problem was battery current sensor or transaxle, it must have been subcode 604 or 605 since those are the only ones that mention current sensor. Most other P0A90 errors are within the transaxle and/or engine (i.e. crank sensor).

The dealer is saying it's not a battery current sensor error, but did they test with enginer system on or off?

To troubleshoot further you should disconnect the enginer system from the HV battery (unplug the blue barrel connectors between the enginer pack and HV battery and tape them up).

Then clear the codes. You can do this by unhooking 12V battery ground wire for a few seconds if you don't have a code reader. Drive for a few days and see if any error lights come on. Seilerts may be right, the Enginer pack could have tried to "overcharge" the Prius and this could cause an error.

I'd definitely do the test above before spending money on a tranny.