Ok, so I may have buggered things up slightly - trouble code help!

This is definitely a stumper!

Oc course there is no offense intended, but after years of reverse-engineering and troubleshooting experience, I've found that most problems like this turn out to be human-induced.

Your theory of the miswired MG leads is an unlikely cause, but if could be something as trivial. Maybe even a connector you forgot to reconnect or a broken wire somewhere.

I'll do what I can from here to help, as I'm very curious as to the outcome! Of course, If you happen to have any extra budget for an airline ticket, I'd love to fly down and assist in person. =) It's been a few years since I've been down-under, I miss it!

 

Yes.

It's possible. Remove the inverter and inspect MG1 motor cable.

 

If you'd swapped two cables around, 3 Phase alternating current Motor Troubleshooting « Ignorance is Bliss suggests that the motor would run backwards. That's not good for the engine, it's supposed to rotate in one direction only.

The peculiar feeling you're getting when driving electrically could be the HV ECU trying to drive MG1 to balance the torque from MG2, and failing.

I don't think it would matter if the phases were rotated from where they should be (e.g. U->V, V->W, W->U), except that the controller might be confused by the signals from the resolver.

If you're in any doubt, I'd check that the connections are definitely wired up correctly.

 

I looked at the TechStream data and strongly suspect low traction battery. If the battery sags too much it will not start! In addition to a reported SOC of less than 15%, see a 20 volt sag @ 10A! I think you need to perform an instrumented charge so you can verify there is enough AH in the pack so it will be able to crank. When I was testing, I found the car could still move (very weakly) and not have enough energy to get the ICE up to firing speed.

This may be the periodic sound you are hearing, it's trying to crank but there is too much sag.

Your data shows that the SMR's didn't even close until you were 32 seconds into the log. It also shows 10A of current at close, which I assume is mainly the DC/DC because your 12v battery is also low.

You can safely charge the traction pack at 200ma or less indefinitely as long as it's in a cool area. Try this: put a charger on the 12v battery that can put out at least 10A @ 14v and jumper the battery fan on high (ground pin 10-brown and pin 24-yellow on the Battery ECU connector). Perform your normal charge regimen, then move the lab supply to at least 250 volts but set it to current limit to 200ma or less. Then leave it for a few days. This will fully charge the pack and also top-balance it.

Then do another techstream log, and we will at least have interesting data!

The traction pack should be fully charged by then as well as the 12v battery, so we shouldn't see but a few amps on SMR close. (make sure the AC is off!)

 

That info refers to a much simpler motor. Prius motors won't run backwards if two cables are reversed.

That's why it matters.

 

If the battery pack is too weak to rotate the motor, I doubt the system will keep trying.

 

Hi PLB-389. If you've gt a HV adjustable power supply set it up for 237 volts and place 50ohm resistor (>20W) in series. It will give a nice slow charge over about 24 hours but it will be safe to leave it longer than 24 hours if desired.

 

From memory; is seemed to me that the 3 MG leads were already held in their relative positions, so that assembly would be obvious. But I may be wrong. Next time I am @ Luscious Garage I will look at one.

 

I think you buggered things up majorly...you past "slightly" 25 posts ago....

 

So do you have the battery fan running also? (I described how to enable it)

 

You don't need a picture. Just make sure that the cable in the middle on one end is the cable in the middle on the other end. If you've done this, and the problem remains, just swap the two outermost cables at one end. If this doesn't do it, your problem lies elsewhere.

 

I wouldn't think this is necessary at 0.2A. There's max 50W heat to dissipate across 75 lbs of a battery rated for 100A. At most, the temperature would go up over ambient by a few degrees C (or F for that matter). Am I missing something?

If you are at 239V, as told by scan tool, then the engine should start.

The MG leads should be marked U, V, W. At the very least, V should be in the middle. Aren't the connections at MG1 and the inverter marked U, V, W? If V is in the middle, then you have 50% chance of getting it right. It is hard to imagine getting U and W reversed, from how stiff those cables are. But, it is possible that, by spinning the motor backwards, a no-start DTC is not set. Now that would be interesting.

 

Running the fan is just a precaution. I wouldn't want any venting. He is in Australia, so I have no idea what the ambient temp the battery is in.

Keep in mind, if the motor leads are not hooked up properly, the motor will not commutate, and thus will not rotate at all. This is because the resolvers will be out of phase (and/or direction) with the actual windings. I would think this would immediately set a DTC though.

 

Your charging setup looks good. It reminds me that I need to put my HV charger together

I do not advocate swapping MG leads around; rather, verify that you at least have the middle "V" cable done right. If so, then put your fully charged battery back in the car and see what happens. I assume that you have the battery installed in its normal position when you are troubleshooting? There is an "Earth bolt" (illustrated in the dismantling guide and repair manual), I think it is used by the battery ECU to make sure that the pack is properly insulated from the frame. I'll take a look when I'm at the shop later today.