Death of main battery +(

Rebuilt traction battery ?
Check out reinvolt.com

 

You are 194 miles from Luscious Garage.

-Chap

 

Pitty you aren't in Texas, I'd buy it from you for a decent amount and put the new battery in myself.

 

OP: One other option for you is to ship the battery to your local installer.

 

We can certainly ship a rebuilt, upgraded battery ($1200 plus shipping plus refundable deposit for your old battery) or reconditioned used battery ($800 plus shipping plus refundable deposit for your old battery) to a shop of your choice if you can't find one out there. (I expect you will be able to find one closer.)

Do not sell it to a pick and pull. You can get more for it. A bad traction battery is no reason to send a perfectly good car that gets 40-50 mpg to the steel shredder. Heck, if you are going to sell it to a pick and pull, I'll buy it and have a friend in Redding hang on to it until I can come get it!

Call me or PM me.

Eric
Adopt A Part
800-508-2211

 

Why not ask the OP what the codes were that led the dealer to condemn the battery? Wouldn't it make more sense to ask a few questions in an effort to determine if the battery was the issue, before trying to sell the poor guy a used battery? Especially with other Gen I battery rebuilders so close by?

This is not the first time that I have noticed this. Looks to me like you are using this forum to sell parts. While I wish you luck in your endeavor, the "Private Sales" forum is the place for that.

 

Since Freidawg has not in any way tried to convince OP that a failed battery is the problem, I think you are barking up the wrong tree. And remember, OP did not ask if his traction battery was toast, he asked what to do about a failed battery.

If you can prove the traction battery is fine or point to a less expensive option, more power to you.

 

I disagree. You can read for yourself that the OP is already looking at battery pack suppliers. Friedawg has likely noticed that, as well, and smells a sale, I'll wager.

But let's give Friedawg a chance to respond, shall we?

The battery pack may indeed be bad. However, it makes more sense to confirm that beforehand. And I already pointed out that rebuilders are close by, thereby saving the cost of shipping two battery packs halfway across the country. Hence, a less expensive option.

 

Looks like a couple of folks on the forum are already itching to take this car off your hands.

Help you out, so to speak ;-)

A few basic questions first: did the vehicle sit without running for a period of time? If so, how long?

What code or codes does the vehicle presently have? What symptoms does it have, i.e. does it run?

 

You continue in the delusion that labor costs are equal across the US. I would wager you could ship it to NC, get it rebuilt and ship it back for less that paying to get it rebuilt in San Fransisco. But this is not really about economics.

 

Hi All,

I think its just obscene what people are being charged for technician fees. $600 to be told the wrong answer, the 12 V battery, is just plain criminal.

 

I guess this is a good excuse to post my latest video on this topic:

 

I didn't say that labor costs are equal across the US. It's a free market system. I'm not sure why you would make such a claim, or use words such as "delusion". This is a technical forum.

Actually, we were discussing the choice of a relatively local source, as compared to buying a used battery pack from a junkyard in Denver. It appears that you are posting in haste without reading the entire thread. I think your posts will make more sense if you try that first.

It's also important to remember that folks who shop on price alone will usually get the cheapest solution, but "cheap" doesn't always equal "quality". When making recommendations, we are potentially playing with someone else's bank account. Let's respect that fact.

 

Does the master warning light (red triangle) illuminate when you try to ready up?

How many miles did the vehicle have on the odometer when it sat for that period of time?

 

OK. I'll respond.

First with regards to what is in my post: 1) He didn't ask for help with diagnosis. 2) I suggested he look close by first. I even suggested he would probably find one close by. 3) The post immediatly prior to mine suggested having a battery shipped to an installer. Seems my posting makes sense in the context of the thread.

Second with regards to my intent/motive in responding to the post.
1) People need to know there are alternatives out there that allow them to keep their cars on the road. 2) If the guy is going to the Pick and Pull to sell the car for $400, I would like to discourage him from doing so. The car is likely worth more than that. Many, if not most, Pick and Pull yards are owned by steel companies that use them to source feed stock. i.e. that car will likely be shredded in 90 days.

Thanks for the tip, I'll post an ad in the Sales Section.

Eric
Adopt A Part
800-508-2211

 

All in all, selling it to a shredder seems like the least logical option. I love my Prius, but it has so much plastic and lightweight material, I'm not sure it there is even $400 worth of steel in it!

(Note: I'm coming off a 1995 Cherokee that felt and handled like it was solid steel....and got the MPG of a refrigerator on square wheels.)