+1 Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best! Unfortunately we are in the middle of the Technology Age where the common belief is that the more complex you can make things, the more money you can charge. Keith
The problem is, a standard key-on-column is not the simplest solution. The whole system is complex and expensive to manufacture. An electronic push-button on the dash is a better solution. Holding down the button for 3 seconds is fairly easy to learn.
Come on, lets not all go back to the stone age because a few people can't cope with technology. If someone's in a car on its side and wants to get out because they fear for their life, let them get out, don't worry about whether the car is running or not, sod the car, look after the people.
Is that 3 second push mentioned in the Owners Manual? Answering my own question: On page 167: Stopping the hybrid system in an emergencyIf you want to stop the hybrid system in an emergency while driving the vehicle, push and hold the “POWER” switch for more than 3 seconds. However, do not touch the “POWER” switch while driving except in an emergency. If the hybrid system stops while the vehicle is being driven, this couldlead to an unexpected accident.
If the car was running while on its side, there is a good chance of engine damage. I had a similar event - and I made sure the insurance company knew it was running - this made them up their quote.....
You guys seem to think that pushing a button for 3 or more seconds "always" removes all power and shuts things down. Well I work as a computer systems/networking consultant and it has been my experience that about 95% of the time, pushing the button does work. However, occasionally that does not work and I end up pulling the plug... (Did you ever wonder why, with all of that redundancy and fault tolerance built into complex computer systems, that most computer rooms still have a big red EPO switch?) Keith
Let see now... I'm rolling down the freeway at only 60 mph, and the system locks up and I need to push the button for 3 seconds. In the time before the car responds to pushing the power button (3 seconds), the car has traveled 264 feet. The inscription on my toombstone would read: "He should have pushed the button 3 seconds before he knew that he needed to push the button". I'd gladly pay the extra amount of money ($ 50?) to have a key/switch on the column (or dashboard) if it would allow me to immediately shut it down. Keith
What do you mean when you say the "system locks up"? As with all cars, your first move would be to step on the brake pedal. Problem solved. In the OP's case, he was flustered from the rollover and forgot to turn the car off. For all we know he would have done the exact same thing if it had a standard key-on-column ignition.
Slight change then: In the OP's case, he was flustered from the rollover and forgot how to turn the car off.
Well, I would have feelings for that engine, and giving much time to assess its condition after the event. Probably cabin heating was on, so it kept running for the whole time.
Followup According to the the shop handling the car, the engine is fine. The breaks and axle were damaged, as well as essentially the entire drivers side (plastic and metal), the door frames, both bumpers, and something on the other side. Total damage for a 5 mph accident, $12,300; 7400 parts plus 3 weeks labor. I am hoping that the insurance company totals it, but the guidelines for total is 75% of market value. It will be there assuming one factors in diminished value (since it is a hit and run that factors in), as well as the car rental for 4 more weeks ($30/day*28 days=840 dollars). So, total ins payout will be about 15500. Or, $3000/mph I was traveling. If they fix it, they are using all OEM parts since the car is only 1 year old.
Re: Followup A NEW 2010 III base around here is $21645 so the estimate is at 71.6%. Factor in the mileage & it should be close to 75%. At 6.1c per mile 12000 miles will do it. From my point of view this is a thought experiment as I hae yet to invert a car. The car is ON. The only reasons I see for the ICE running would be if it is still warming up (coolant temp under 125F) or if it is needed to run the defroster or climate control. Could the wheels be turning from momentum?
Re: Followup They would be, however if he was traveling at 5mph like he says, then the wheels should be spinning at 5mph or less.
Re: Followup If the engine ran without oil pressure for any significant length of time ( 10 minutes? ), it probably is not "fine". It might seem fine but only an engine tear down would show if there was any bearing or cylinder damage. Why was the engine running? It shouldn't have.
PP: It was cold out..defroster was on...I am not sure how long the ICE was one, I know it was on at one point.