Hatchback hard to open in cold weather??

Maybe the two hatch struts need to be replaced.

 

Is the hatch unlatching? Assuming so, try using some silicone on the rubber seals. It helps keep them from sticking to the car body.

Tom

 

You need new struts. The pressure in them is shot and it becomes apparent in cold weather. Had that issue several times with other cars. New struts will fix the problem. Can't believe the dealer didn't recommend changing them. They should be available at the big autoparts chains. Easy swap out -- they may do it for you for free in the parking lot.

 

I've had this issue too. It seems like the latch gets stuck. I find that if I release it and pull the again it'll open. Sometimes I have to do this a couple of times before it'll release. It only tends to do this to me if it has been a while since I've opened the hatch.

I have also noticed the weather seal does tend to stick in the winter.

 

My 08 frequently needs two pushes of the fingers on the rubber latch to open. The first push pops the hatch and then it needs a second push to fully unlatch. Kind of like a secondary hood latch. I just figured that was normal as mine does it most of the time. I have also had the hatch stick more firmly when its been colder, but due to my location that hasn't been a problem. I would suspect some minor misalignment of the latching mechanism. I don't know if this is adjustable or not. It hasn't been enough of a problem here to bother investigating.

 

Careful with the replacement.

I remember finally needing to do that on my first hatchback... an '84 Omni!

I suggest only one at first. Two made it difficult to close. The restored pressage actually worked too well.
.

 

Well, if your concern is just the hatch opening switch, that is easy and inexpensive to DIY replace, and I have posted on how to do so.

If your concern is smooth operation of the hatch lock, try spraying some WD-40 down into the hole where it lives. Move the mechanical hatch lock release which you can find hidden behind the small rectangular access port in the black plastic tray over the spare tire. Maybe that will free up the lock.

 

Is it trying to unlatch and failing to do so fully? Or is it not unlatching every time you push the switch? If the latter, then maybe you're keeping the fob in an outside pocket where the battery in it is getting colder and not working well, or it's in an inner pocket and the extra shielding of your winter outer clothing is interferring with the signal, maybe?

 

It opens slowly in 50 degree Calif weather. Then I lean in and bang my head thinking it's fully open. The Gen III does not yet have this problem. WD40 did not help.

 

http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...g/78687-how-replace-hatch-opening-switch.html

 

The problem with removing the original screws holding the hatch
release switch may have to do with all cross-head screws not being the
true Phillips head type. For example:



One obvious issue is the "blades" on the true Phillips are parallel sided,
whereas on the other types the blade sides are tapered towards the tip.

However, most likely, the difficulty comes from a particular cross-head
screw type originating in Japan:

My experience is with a medication dispensing machine made by
Yuyama of Osaka Japan. After servicing almost everything medical and
laboratory related, and up until 6 years ago I had never even known
about other kinds of Phillips, then during the service training on these
units along came JIS as they called it. Each screw has a dimple which I
take to understand to indicate that the cross-point head is not a
Phillips. The screws are also metric for sure.

We're using JIS screwdrivers available at RC Helicopter hobby shops as
that is a common problem with the RC Toys. Most helicopter blades
appearantly are held on by JIS screws. Phillips just tears the recess
apart.

Further I hunted the net to see about the ISO cross-point screws you
mentioned. I can't find them anywhere, just nothing. I did find a lot
about ISO metric threads. But never in reference to the head drive
recess. Also nothing about ISO screwdrivers as I'd expect.

I'm almost sure what you refer to as Eiki ISO screws were actually JIS-
Type screws with ISO metric threads. Two ways of saying the same
thing basically. Similar to if I'd call them Yuyama ISO screws.

From: When a Phillips is not a Phillips!

I have also heard of a "Pherson" (spelling?) head screw that outwardly
looks like the Phillips head, but I can't find anything about it on the 'Net.

Edit: Ahh, found it. It's a Frearson or Reed-and-Prince head as shown in
the illustration above. Probably not applicable here as, at least in the US,
it is used on bronze wood screws used in boat building...
one of my past careers was as a boat builder...
to which I will gladly still answer.

 

Yeah, thermal expansion/contraction could be causing the condition assuming its some minor mechanical interference. If that seems to be the problem try to see if it can be adjusted, or you might take it apart and reassemble and see if it changes. I don't know if that's hard to do or risky or not. If you're still in warranty, take it in to the dealer and see what they say.

 

Low fob battery, low 12V, try some light grease as for the struts I lubricate them with light grease, but, it only helps some. I have also noticed a slowness in Winter and I am in California!

 

gob some white lithium grease on the base and the latch mechanism.
in winter several of my other cars locks will "stick" its actually water freezing the mechanism shut.
displace the water with grease and voila, doesnt stick anymore.
perhaps a good wd40 spray to displace all water, then grease liberally.
open and close the mechanism a few times to spread the grease.
also try pushing down on the rear hatch when pressing the unlock button.
if its jsut a bit tight, jammed, maybe downward pressure will relieve the jammed up pressure point, and latch will unlock freely.
just thinkin a bit.
definitely wd40 all gaskets if they get wet they could also easily freeze shut.
my struts are weak in the winter, hach doesnt open all the way, i am always bangin my head!!!!
you could always leave one rear seat folded down and let the dog climb in the rear door and go into the trunk area from there...