Hi PriusChat!

:welcome:
2007 is not involved in the brake software, only the floor-mat issue. (be careful that you have them well secured)

The Gen II does make a fair amount of noise just after you turn the car off, it stores hot coolant, in case you drive again soon, it will warm up quicker.

 

If you put the Weather Tech mats in put the passenger side one in the drivers side. This puts the mat -fully- under the accelerator pedal so there are no edges to catch on. It does limit how far you can depress the pedal, but that hasn't been a problem for me.
The other thing putting the passenger side one in the drivers side does is it stops the mat from moving forward. The "dead pedal" fits in the cutout on the left and holds the mat very well.

-DO- check, with the car off, by depressing pedal fully on and off, that the is no way it can catch. We don't need -more- nonsense about killer floormats!

 

If you want factory mats put a "want to buy" post in the for sale forum. I imagine there are members who have switched to more rugged mats who would sell you a set. Oh, and list your color. I have a set of gray ones I'd part with.

Mid-$10K is still below trade for a 2007, so not a bad deal. Interesting, though, that if you had had to pay for labor it would have probably ended up at about what you could find one for used. That's a good indication that even insurance salvage rebuilders are selling for decent money.

 

Re: Prius won't start! Help!!

It is obvious that your 12V battery is dead.

How much usage does the car get? If you don't drive the car much then it is likely that the battery did not get sufficient charging time. Also it is possible that the battery was not fully-charged when you installed it.

Is it possible that a door or the hatch was left ajar so that the cabin lights remained on which, depending upon the battery's state of charge, can potentially fully discharge the battery overnight.

Do you have a battery charger so that you can see whether the battery will accept a charge?

If not, you can carefully jumpstart the Prius (making absolutely certain that you observe correct battery polarity, or else incur a 4-digit repair bill replacing the inverter) then either go on a very long driving trip (8 hours) or else leave the car READY overnight so that the battery will charge up. Good luck.

 

No, the interior cabin lights will not turn off automatically, as many Prius owners have learned to their dismay. And yes, the hatch requires a firm slam to shut fully.

I recognize that the advertising claim is that the Optima battery is fully-charged upon shipment. You would need to measure the battery voltage upon receipt to confirm whether this is true (new fully-charged AGM battery should measure ~12.9V.)

In any event, you now have to decide whether to charge the battery with a battery charger or jumpstart the car then leave the Prius READY for an extended period.

 

You can jump-start the car from under the hood. The instructions are in the owners manual, but basically, you connect to a terminal in the fusebox with a red flip-up cover. The negative goes to the chassis (use a bolt on the firewall just above the fusebox).

Be VERY careful with polarity when you jump-start the Prius. Reversing polarity, even with the car off, will be very expensive.

 

Turning off the hatch light is not enough because if the hatch is open, then 1) the car will not lock and 2) the other cabin lights will remain on. It would be better to leave that switch on, but you need to look at the light to make sure it is off before you walk away. I recommend that you also get in the habit of always locking the car, and ensuring you hear the appropriate beeps from the car that shows it is locked.

Regarding damage to the Optima battery, since a selling point is supposed to be that the battery will withstand repeated discharges, you'll have an opportunity to see whether that is marketing BS or there is truth to the claim.

 

I have a 2007 with the exact mileage.

I would recommend getting the brake pedal mod done on the car. Its a free recall for you. They take the pedal out and cut about an inch or so off the bottom and then grind the edges/corners real nice. I hate dealers but mine did a nice job.And you won't notice a thing about it except you can then safely use 2 mats.

The other thing I learned from the guys here years ago is to lock your car every single time you walk away especially in the garage.
Make it muscle memory. It will not allow the lock if doors are open.
If you do not do this every time plan on buying alot of batteries.
Its alerted me at least 5 times about hatch ajar.

Also its easy to close the rear hatch. Grab the inside handle and with one smooth swift motion pull the hatch down. As the hatch going down passes by you using your palm on the Toyota emblem push it closed. Its easy and closes very nice every time.
Be aware there have been reports of window blow outs on a very firm hatch close.I try to leave a front door open when I close the hatch.

BTW, talking about the rear hatch there's been a rash of melted 2007 rubber handles on the hatch lock including mine. Does your hatch lever feel like a hersheys bar?

Good Luck.

 

Even an Optima will suffer some damage from being fully discharged. So it will be slightly less than perfect. It will also be slightly less than perfect after a year of use. I wouldn't worry about it.
Yes, the hatch light is a problem, as it is so easy to leave on and so hard to see it's on. I leave mine turned off. I make sure the hatch (and other doors) are properly closed. I leave Pearl unlocked while parked in the garage. I haven't had a problem in over three years.
I -do- have a Battery Tender ready, just in case, a spare full size Optima battery, and a high quality battery charger as well. So I'm not worried, though if on the road I could kill the 12V battery and would be stuck (but I also have a "Prius boost cable" in the car).