She died on the road. (Anyone familiar with Capital Toyota in Landover, MD?)

Yes, there are so many DTC that I can appreciate that the tech doesn't know what to do. They returned the car to you, so that you can drive it and wait for the car to fail again.

I would focus on P0A1D and P3000. Were the three-digit info codes associated with those two DTC logged? They don't seem to be recorded in the six pages that you uploaded. The info codes would potentially provide a better hint about the problem.

At this point it seems that either the traction battery or the hybrid vehicle ECU has a problem. The HV ECU seems more likely since the problem is intermittent.

Unfortunately, it appears that you'll have to suffer another failure before any action is taken.

 

I do not think the inverter or the coolant pump is a problem. The 12V battery is relatively new so it shouldn't be a problem, especially since your failure occurred only after you'd been driving for a couple of hours.

DTC codes have a common format. The first character is alpha and the last four characters are hexadecimal.

The first character can be one of the following:

P = powertrain
B = body
C = chassis
U = network

P0A1D is pointing to a problem with the HV ECU or an associated component, depending upon the three-digit info code.

P3000 is indicating a problem with the HV ECU or traction battery (or out of gas situation which you did not have) depending upon the info code.

The various U codes are reporting that the HV ECU lost comm with the engine, traction battery, skid control, and gateway ECUs.

DTC C2315 is logged by the transmission control ECU and is reporting a problem with the HV ECU, the P switch, the transmission control ECU or the associated wiring harness.

Given all of the above, the HV ECU seems like a likely suspect.

If you like, you might try calling the dealer service manager tomorrow and say that all these DTC were logged yet no problem was diagnosed, you have a long way to drive and have lost confidence in the car, and ask whether the tech can engage Toyota tech support for assistance.

Or, at minimum, keep a copy of the repair paperwork in the car so that if/when it fails again, you can provide this to the next Toyota dealer service dept that you visit, thus proving that the issue is not a one-time glitch and that they need to do something for you besides resetting the codes and setting you loose on the road again. Good luck.

 

This may not apply, but make sure you really check the connections on the 12V battery, and clean them. I used to have a Saturn that would die going over some bumps, often going through dangerous intersections.

Cleaning and sanding the battery posts and connectors helped. Anyway, this is an easy thing to do.

 

Sorry weekends are always difficult for me to find time to check priuschat.

There are separate sales reviews and service reviews. If you choose only service reviews then there are two 1.0 ratings and one 2.0 one. This is why I said "poor" but the sample size of three is too small to be overly concerned. In general user reviews need to be taken with a grain of salt anyway. I wonder if some dealers may fake good reviews for self and bad ones for competitors. Some dealers "encourage" customers to give positive reviews with various incentives such as a free oil change.

 

If the wires are accessible maybe one could also try to tug and wiggle the wires to find bad connections?

 

Bummer Jim. I vote for the loose wire or harness connector.

Wayne

 

I would double check that Optima installation for loose connection because it needs new cables due to the difference size of the battery terminal.

 

can you make a stop in the silver spring/north bethesda area on your way back? DH would be happy to look at it.

 

I think we're seeing an internal communication problem in the HV ECU, between the main processor and the communications processor(s). The HV ECU contains 5 CPUs, one of which runs the main control program, another two generate the AC drive waveforms for MG1 and MG2 respectively, and the others do communications to the other ECUs. I don't imagine the software was written to cope with a drop-out here and treats it as a failure to communicate with those other ECUs.

Likely the P0A1D would tell us more, but they haven't captured freeze-frame data for that one to tell us which one of the 40-odd error codes it is. Most of them simply say 'replace HV ECU'.

Assuming that the CAN bus checks out OK, I'd say it's probably a crack in the HV ECU circuit board or a bad solder joint, and that replacing the HV ECU is the right solution.

Patrick: P3000 only ever means 'problem reported by Battery ECU'. You have to look at the Battery ECU to see what the problem is. I'm not sure why Toyota have included this proxy DTC in the HV ECU, but they have. Perhaps there was some limitation on the Combination Meter seeing the codes from the Battery ECU, in order to illuminate the master warning light, on the original model, and that software hasn't been removed?

P3000 INF 388 does say that one cause is fuel shortage; this is recorded when the Battery ECU is reporting that the battery is discharged more than the normal lower limit, which tends to happen when you keep driving after you run out of fuel. There isn't a no-start code stored for Jim, so I don't think this is the cause.

The Battery ECU's U0100 code is interesting as that shows loss of communication with the engine ECU (ECM). That might point to a general CAN failure rather than just the HV ECU.

I also note that the freeze-frames on pages 2, 3, and 4 have the same Engine Run Time and DTC Clear Run Distance, so I'm guessing they actually did occur simultaneously, but that the one on page 2 has a coolant temperature of 0°C and battery voltage (+B) of 11.73V while those on 3 and 4 have 85°C and 13.84V. Could be a power-supply sag, which might indicate an intermittent short somewhere.

There's a big difference between the accelerator pedal position #1 and #2 sensors which seems weird, though I admit I've not seen any freeze-frame data before to compare it to. These could be raw percentage of sensor power supply voltage rather than translated input.

If that is true, 16.8% of 5V is 0.84V and 32.5% is 1.625V, which according to the chart for DTC P2122/3/7/8 is zero pedal - they should be 0.8V apart. On pages 3 and 4, 25.2% is 1.26V and 41.9% is 2.095V, which is about 20% of full travel.

 

Your seeing DH, trouble over, next.

Wayne