2010 Toyota Prius model II Head Unit Upgrade

Any alternatives to Kenwood that can also be used as a monitor for Navigation and reverse cam?

 

much more similar to III NAV (except JBL)

 

Pioneer and JVC also have good units with NAV and reverse camera inputs. Pioneer seems to have the best ipod and iphone integration which is why I chose it.

 

Consider me wow'ed

 

Where can I get more info regarding these units (pioneer/JVC) including reputable online vendors. Thx.

 

For pioneer

Pioneer USA - GPS Navigation


I bought the 110bt and should be getting a $200 rebate
Pioneer USA - Navi-Days Navigation Rebate

For JVC

JVC Mobile Entertainment \ ProductLine Navigation

I bought through a pioneer authorized reseller through amazon (they were cheaper there than on their own site). You need to go authorized to get the rebate. Amazon also has the JVCs and kenwoods with some user reviews. You can search the forums to see opinions on the units.

 

I wonder if best buy stereo installers can do this kind of install, since it looks like a lot of work? nice job, looks better than the OEM.

 

Nice job, excellent write up

How well does the SWI volume controls work? Any delay?

 

Good to know. Was thinking of adding that SWI to my other Toyota (non hybrid). I too was worried about the delay.

 

I have SWI-JACK with a Kenwood head unit. There is some delay. The buttons SWI-JACK use are not instant like OEM. I have to hold a fraction of a second longer. I don't know if that delay is from Kenwood or SWI.

 

Help me please!

I have a Alpine 114BTi (parrot bluetooth & ipod full speed cable)
the first pic is the Metra 70-1761 wiring harness
and the last pic is the alpine wiring harness

speakers cables is ok
· green (left rear positive LR+)
· green-black (left rear negative LR-)
· white (left front positive LF+)
· white-black (left front negative LF-)
· grey (right front positive RF+)
· grey-black (right front negative RF-)
· violet (right rear positive RR+)
· violet-black (right rear negative RR-)

from the metra kit to the alpine ISO connector i think the is no problem...


but the other wires???
· orange (dimmer) DIMMER (i must connect to the iso plug or spare wire?)
· yellow (battery constant 12v +) (i must connect to the iso plug or spare wire?)
· red (ignition/switched 12v +) (i must connect to the iso plug or spare wire?)
· black (chassis ground 12v -) (connect to iso plug)
· blue (power antenna) (connect to iso plug)

ALPINE MANUAL http://www.alpine-electronics.co.uk...audio_manuals/CDE-114BTi/OM_CDE-114BTi_EN.pdf

somebody can help me?

Thanks

 

What is the best hu that has all the high end features of a car stereo, and GPS with all the latest maps and lane assist? suggestions?

 

Does the touch tracer display still work when the SWI is used with the upgrade?

 

I just finished my HU upgrade. I have a base model II and put in a JVC NT3HDT with SWI-JACK. I did install the bluetooth mic but not a back up camera. My expectations are very low for the bluetooth, as I have jawbone that sounds really good, and was tempted to just omit the bluetooth mic.

I'll post pics later. My impressions:
1) the process was much more difficult that anticipated. A number of posts here talk about how easy it is so perhaps my expectations were set poorly. After tracking down all appropriate parts, figuring out the wiring, and soldering all the wire connections except those from the SWI wires to the 20 pin car harness wires (which must done with HU out), it still took me 5 hours from take apart to put back together. Total time spent must've exceeded 10 hours.
2) Most of the difficulty was in getting the HU to fit right. I had to grind and drill the brackets and the HU fit is still not perfect but as good as I'm going to get it. The HU just has gaps between the plastic surround.
3) The SWI-JACK works but has a roughly 1 second delay.
4) FM reception is still poor. The HD FM radio fades in and out and has an echo. I need to look into bypassing HD FM I guess. A bit disapointing.
5) The sound improvement is minimal to moderate. The improvement is not as significant as I was expecting. Perhaps I need new speakers and an amp. The new HU just doesn't seem to deliver a strong sound.

 

Attached is a pic of my install.

The JVC won't allow some operations like entering an address in NAV while the car is moving. Of course, this is an unadvertisted "feature". If you ground the parking brake line, all features operate whether the car is moving or not.

 

Just picked up my 2010 Prius II today. Now looking into how to update the radio. The attached document in to OP is great. I am a little confused and was hoping someone could clear up my confusion.

Does all this text apply to part #1 in the picture?

[FONT=CenturyGothic,Italic][FONT=CenturyGothic,Italic]

No tool needed. Just use your fingers and nails. Just pull with enough force. Don't pull
slowly, just yank with enough force but make sure you only pull with about 1-3" of flex.
Don't pull it so hard that your whole body jerks. Just use your forearms and flex only
between the elbow and hands. They are all held by plastic clips that are sturdy so don't​

worry about breaking the clips.
​

Where do you start? At the bottom, near the cup holder? Does teh entire piece all the way up to the top right come off? It would be nice to know approximately where the clips are and how many there are.

I guess what is confusing me is that there are four parts labeled. The first part is described followed by a paragraph befinning with First, another with Second, than third and fourth. I may sound picky but when ripping into a new purchase, I want to be sure I am doing the right thing.

[FONT=CenturyGothic,Italic][FONT=CenturyGothic,Italic]

First, I recommend by removing the black surround that's at the base for the shifter. Lift it
out of the way and rotate it to the driver side (or you can unplug it and remove it​

entirely.
​

[/FONT][/FONT]Again, I wish there were additional descriptions other than "lift it out of the way" Am I to assume this part (labeled 2) is held down by part 1 so that once part 1 is removed part 2 simply lifts off? No fasteners?

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Second, start pulling off at the base where the cup holder is and start tugging upwards
towards the upper corner leading up from the heater controls upwards towards the​

right side of the stereo.
​

[/FONT][/FONT]OK, I thought I already removed the part labeled 1 with the cup holder. Did I misread the first paragraph? Or am I misreading this one?

Third, carefully start pulling off the plastic surrounding the radio. Don't yank all the
corners at once. Again start at one side and work across to the opposite side.
​

How is the plastic sourounding the radio held in place? Again, with clips? Are we talking about theh part labeled 3? You went through the trouble labeling the parts and therefore you should refer to them by your label. Or maybe you did if the third step refers to the part labeled 3.

[FONT=CenturyGothic,Italic][FONT=CenturyGothic,Italic]

Fourth, remove the "Power" button cover. In the same way, just tug and it will snap out​

of its slot.
​

[/FONT][/FONT]Now I am wondering how the Trim gets re-attached. I would love to see pictures of the back of the trim in it's removed state.

The rest of the guide is clear enough and some may be specific to the HU that was selected.

I am wondering if theer are any other sources out there that I can use to fill in the gaps. Wondering if the materials from Crutchfield will be sufficient.

Again, thanks for all of the work. Maybe some additional comments explaining some of my questions will make this resource better.
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