Adding a subwoofer to the 2010

I would seriously consider the additional load a 200W sub would put on the Inverter. A 200W amplifier will likely draw in the neighborhood of 22 amps at peak power, and 12-15 amps at a normal listening level. That's an extra 12-22 amp load the inverter was set up to handle. If you ever get into a worst-case driving condition: stop and go traffic in heavy rain at night. The additional load from the subwoofer might be more than the inverter can handle.

 

Do you even have space beneath the seats to put a sub?

The G3's I've seen all have something underneath the seats. When I asked the salesman what they were he said they were for heated seats. Obviously this guy was clueless, as many salesmen often are, unfortunately...

 

It is as simple as adding a high to low (line output converter) to the stock system. Then just adding connections for power and ground, all of which is conveniently located in the hatch area.

As for the current draw. I cannot say whether it is good or bad but I can say I have had zero problems with a very large stereo system in my GenII for over 75k miles.

 

Bazooka with the pre-amp is what I wanted to do, but they need to be mounted to keep from rolling around. kk6spd's setup with the Boss sub looks like an inexpensive way to add bass and keep a factory appearance.

 

Your Basslink unit is a line output converter. It takes high level speaker outputs and turns them into low level outputs (RCA) so that the amplifier can handle the lower level signal.

The only thing we have not determined yet is if the 2010 has a full range signal to the rear speakers or if it is modified with A crossover at some frequency. If the signal is not full range then we would want to tap into your speakers before the amplifier which is usually full range. Either way I do not see why you would have to go into the dash board.

As for growing up, nonsense! I'm now 34 and I have almost 2000w of continuous power at my disposal and trust me when I say people stare when they see a Prius vibrating down the road. lol

 

You just use the supplied nylon and anchor it up against the back seats using the child seat bars. It won't move at all!

 

Good thread. Im interested in putting a sub in mine. I want something thats not way too overpowering and something that can coexist with the stock JBL nicely. Suggestions????

 

I just ordered a 10" kicker comp vr, kicker zx300 amp, and a box that will only take up roughly 1 cubic foot in the trunk. It should be here soon, and sound really good. The amp also comes with a bass remote so that you can turn up/down the sub without going to the trunk.
got everything, sub amp box wires + 3 yr warranty on all of it, for 327 shipped from onlinecarstereo.com
i'll be sure to post how it sounds when i get home on leave

 

Im a really big audio noob. I have a couple questions. Ive been looking around and not sure what wattage to get. I dont want to draw too much from the car but what would be the highest wattage for just the subwoofer??? The amp??? Thanks a lot.

 

I got a nice little crossover box or wtv installed under the amp under the seat, then had the wires ran back in the car. I purchased a Boss 8" all in one deal, and it stopped working, so Best Buy stuck a cheap little 10" Alpine with a Kenwood amp and it sounds MUCH better. The output is 400w, which is exactly that of the speaker. And that is the true continuous wattage, even at the set ohm. Perfect. It really thumps, but I don't tend to go around booming. lol

 

For the people who installed the Kenwood KSC-SW10 or similar sub in the trunk area UNDER the hatch in that little storage area, did you notice that the bass was dampened/compromised as it is not open into the interior space but covered up with that folding floor cover? I would like to install mine there but then was thinking that I would have to turn up the volume/level higher to compensate for this location and then risk possible distortion. The space under the front passenger seat is the other option I am considering.

 

I have a Boss1200 under the hatch and I would have to say being in there actually enhanced the sound. It seems to use the entire car as the box.

 

That is very interesting. Guess I'll start with that first. It's probably the easier location so I don't have to break my back working in the tight space under the seat and worrying about the heater blowing hot air right onto the unit.

Did you connect the power wire directly to the (+) post of the battery? The Kenwood manual stated to run this power wire to the fusebox, which I don't understand what that means at all.

 

Of course my sub is rated much higher than what you got.

Yes, I connected directly up to the battery terminal. My sub has a sensing wire from the HU that will turn the sub on when needed. No problems with the 12v discharging so far.

Now do you already have the Kenwood sub?