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Chinese replacement HUs?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Audio and Electronics' started by Jeremy Harris, Apr 30, 2010.

  1. damn_gas

    damn_gas New Member

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    LOL... No, we clocked in a little over 600 miles for the weekend trip to SoCal and I spent just $32 in gas. The ODO was right on 1000 miles when we pulled in the garage. :D

    Thanks for the info... I think I'm going to be ordering the QL-TYT510 soon!

    - Glenn
     
  2. rrolff

    rrolff Prius Surgeon

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    Glenn,

    If budget was an issue, I would really look (and research AVIC forum) at the F900BT from Pioneer. It's been cracked and hacked - so I think has a decent number features that are nice (and can't be had - sadly on the $1000 Z110BT). They are very cheap used - but you need the PAC ad-ons (mostly as a package though - $300+).

    I don't know much about it - but I know whenever I'm looking for stuff on mine, there's lots of stuff for that one...

    Just another thought...
     
  3. damn_gas

    damn_gas New Member

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    :eek: Oh no... now you just made it more interesting rrolff...

    "MUST HAVE AVIC X920BT, MUST HAVE AVIC X920BT, MUST HAVE AVIC X920BT, MUST HAVE AVIC X920BT, MUST HAVE AVIC X920BT, MUST HAVE AVIC X920BT, MUST HAVE AVIC X920BT, MUST HAVE AVIC X920BT, MUST HAVE AVIC X920BT" :D

    You're suggestion of the f900bt led me to the x920bt. Man, what a cool HU! Price is really not that bad, one eBay seller sells it for $729 delivered.

    I immediately forgot about the Chinese HUs once I saw the x920bt. I haven't been paying attention to the progress/development of in-car entertainment and I was pleasantly surprised! Thanks! :)
     
  4. rrolff

    rrolff Prius Surgeon

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    I believe the Z110/Z120 is the same - just larger display.

    I would possibly prefer a hacked/cracked version (the 900) - though I don't know much about what has been done on it. The 920 and 110 are not crackable as it stands today... I ended up with the Z110 simply because it was a very good deal ($670 after rebate).

    The 900s can be had for a song...

    Good luck either way...
     
  5. PaJa

    PaJa Senior member

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    Last weekend I finalised the 1st stage of the install.

    [​IMG]

    1. As I expected, the original metal mounting brackets didn't fit well, so managed to dremel four major mounting holes and others adjustments as visible on two pictures.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The placement is not perfect, as you can see on 1st picture. Next time I open the dash, I'll change the shape of holes on sides to have a better fit. It is a better idea probably then change the front holes.

    2. The next task was to find a good position for GPS. As recommended by rrolf, the dash tweeter area is very good. I was not able to fit a GPS antenna directly under tweeter cover, it was to high. But I found the good place after removing of tweeter from its position. I foamed the antenna to have a good, tight contact. Pictures say more.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    3. I decided to place the microphone close to the original position as it was perfect from the user comfort point of view. From this position along windshield and headliner to A pillar, through tweeter opening, under the dash using the trace of original harness over parking brake, brake and acceleration pedals, fished it through opening under HU position. The microphone clip perfectly fits without any changes of plastic parts. The removing of A pillar was quite hard for first time - there is a special clip witch has to be turned by 90° and 2 clips close to the windshield/dashboard are quite tight to remove pllar out. But it was done w/o any visible damage. I recommend to be carefull of the curtain airbag - I fixed it with the masking tape during the manipulation around it.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    4. I made the preparation for the backup camera install. I wired long AV cable and reverse wire extension from supplied harness to the parking brake locality where reverse signal is available and I will continue with AV along doors to the rear of the car. I used the same trace as for microphone and GPS cable. So all HU's wires are together.

    5. I mentioned earlier, the EU version has a special FM/AM antenna connector and there is no DIN adapter available. So, I simply cutted the original coax cable and brown ant. amplifier wire and soldered the DIN male connector and tapped the HU's ANT. power where 12V is available when HU is turned on. From the original antenna connector I made the DIN female adapter for the potential future usage with the original stereo.

    To be continue......
     
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  6. Jeremy Harris

    Jeremy Harris New Member

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    Very many thanks, PaJa, for a really good write up. The unit does look very good indeed in that first shot, pretty much as good as an OEM radio. That Toyota surround really does look much neater than the after market ones I've seen pictured elsewhere.

    How does the FM radio perform? Is it better than the stock JBL radio?

    Thanks again for all the really useful information.

    Jeremy
     
  7. PaJa

    PaJa Senior member

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    FM radio reception quality is pretty same - so no good and RDS doesn't work fully. It displays PTY infromation and some station's names. It doesnt have TA, AF functions.
    MP3 player doesn't use folders for albums, it just scan the whole storage (NAND flash, SD, USB) and plays the content. There is some possibility to create play lists.
    BT works as expected - the sound quality is perfect, but I'm missing voice dial.
    DVD playback is fine. Navigation works as we can expect from latest version of iGo8. GPS fix is quick - much better then on my HTC Diamond mobile. When navigation plays the voice command the MP3 is paused or radio has a loudness dropout.
    All together I'm a little disappointed, but if I compare $600 vs. 1600 for the "brand" which doesnt fit the original suround. The quality respects the price. Also $3000 for advanced tech package with not good navigation is a worst scenario and you dont have a toy.:cheer2:
     
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  8. Jeremy Harris

    Jeremy Harris New Member

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    Thanks again, PaJa.

    It's a pity that the RDS function doesn't work properly, as I rely on AF to avoid having to retune the radio all the time. The odd thing is that the slightly cheaper versions of this head unit, like the one that rrolf bought, do seem to have AF and TA functionality, at least, the screenshots on the autodvdgps web site show these functions as touch buttons on the screen.

    I'm still undecided on the way forward. I already have a Smartmirror, which has pretty much the same GPS navigation, reversing camera and Bluetooth functionality, so I could fit that to get the add-on "toys" and then just look for a good branded radio/MP3 headunit. I think that the small filler strip kit that adapts the non-standard opening in the Toyota OEM fascia, like this one: Connects 2 CT24TY09 Toyota RAV4/MR2/Celica Facia Panel - Free De £18.95 Discount Car Audio UK: DVB Car Audio UK Online Entertainment Store , would probably still look reasonably OK with a standard 2 DIN head unit.

    My main interest is in getting good FM radio reception and a usable way of playing MP3s, whilst still having a head unit that looks as if it is OEM.

    Jeremy
     
  9. Jeremy Harris

    Jeremy Harris New Member

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    Having thought long and hard, plus having gleaned a bit more information on these units, I've decided to go for the next model down from this one, the QL-TYT 720, which I think is the same one that rrolf had last year.

    It now seems that they have ironed the bugs out of that model and they have confirmed that it has full RDS functionality, including AF and TA. It doesn't have radio text, but I can live with that.

    It seems as if there is a consistent theme to the way these products are developed. They seem to be released without adequate testing and then rely on customer feedback to get things sorted. With this in mind, it seems to make sense to go for an older model, because there is a reasonable chance that they will have had time sort things out.

    Thanks to the pioneering work that PaJa has done, I now know that I don't need the pricey amplifier interface, as I've now deciphered every wire and realised that I can use the power antenna feed to turn the amplifier on via the AMP wire. Looking at the circuit diagram it seems that, at least for the European JBL version, the head unit does have its own power amplifier that runs some of the speakers directly. It seems that the JBL amplifier only drives the front door speakers. I've been hunting high and low for a connector to make an adapter for the odd antenna connection on the European Prius, to no avail. I think I will need to either make one, or just cut the lead off and fit a standard connector. Some Hondas seem to have a fairly similar antenna connector, so I may get an adapter for a Honda and see if I can modify it to fit the Prius.

    I've ordered the genuine surround from Pentagon Sheffield, so I'm hopeful that I'll end up with a dash that looks fairly OEM.

    I'll post details of the install, together with the head unit and JBL amplifier wiring that I've deciphered so far.

    Jeremy

    Edited to add:

    I've found what I think is the right antenna adapter to allow the European Prius antenna lead to connect to this head unit. Here's a photo, linked from the Connects 2 description of this part, their part number CT27AA78:

    [​IMG]

    Does this look like the right one, PaJa?

    If so, then it's available on eBay, just search for the part number, CT22AA78

    Jeremy
     
  10. PaJa

    PaJa Senior member

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    Unfortunately their picture is not very clear and it looks to have a different shape which would not fit. I found frenchie's picture:
    [​IMG]

    I cutted the original wiring and made ant. adapter Toyota-DIN female in case I'll return OEM stereo back to the car. I'll make a photo when I'm back at home next week.
    Here is promised antenna DIY adapter.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. PaJa

    PaJa Senior member

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    Last weekend I found couple of hours to finalize the rearview camera install. I had a video cable ready beside the rear seatback from the previous install session. I selected the following wiring path:
    1. Rear seatback remove - it is needed to loose the nut fixing the Seatback side cushion.
    2. Rear Seatback Side remove.

    [​IMG]

    3. Deck trim panel remove. I followed the cable harnish path on the picture to reverse lamp, where I tapped the (+) for the camer power.

    [​IMG]

    4. The video cable together with the (+) power line followed the upper harness path, beside the rear curtain airback to the rubber connection.

    [​IMG]

    5. I fished the wire through the rubber pipe, The lubrication (shower gel) was the essential trick and the second trial with video cable conencted to the fishing wire was successfull.

    [​IMG]

    6. I found, after the rear door dismount, that the camera (Camry09)is much smaller then the camera opening in the rear door plastic panel. I decided to keep the orig. opening plastic plug for the future and cut&trim the new adapter from plastic. After the modelling of plug I glued the camera into it with hot-melt glue and spray it with the original color. The final result is:

    [​IMG]

    7. The camera image from HU.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. PaJa

    PaJa Senior member

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    How is your HU?
     
  13. rrolff

    rrolff Prius Surgeon

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    Paja - can you go into how you removed the rear side panel - I've never had the guts to pull it because it seems tough...
     
  14. Jeremy Harris

    Jeremy Harris New Member

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    The HU arrived OK last week, along with the OEM fascia. I'm still waiting for the aerial adapter; its on back order and should arrive this week.

    The finish of the unit looks good, it will certainly blend in well to the dash and look fairly standard, I think. One thing that I didn't get with it was any nav software micro SD card. I didn't see an option on the Qualir website to order this separately, but luckily I have a current copy of iGo8 for Win CE and also a copy of TomTom, so I'll see if I can get either of them to work.

    Hopefully I should get it installed next weekend.

    Jeremy
     
  15. dtuite

    dtuite Silverback

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    Jeremy, while you have things apart, could you perform a simple continuity check from the am/fm antenna screw-in socket to the antenna plug at the HU? Ever since I realized that totally unscrewing my antenna has absolutely no effect on reception, I've been suspicious. But my days of hanging upside-down under dashboards are behind me. I'don't think I've seen a post here in which continuity had been verified.
     
  16. rrolff

    rrolff Prius Surgeon

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    To save you hours (well - that's what it took me), you need to pay close attention to the display setup in the mapping software.

    I didn't save mine (sorry) - but form memory, iGo has a file (called sys.txt?) where you need to setup the display. There are parameters that must be set - like VGA=1 (???) - and a corresponding lib file that must have the 800x480 driver file. It's all a pain - took me lots of trial and error before I finally got the right combination to get the startup screen and main screens in sync.... You need the correct data.zip file...

    Here's a good source that I used (general forums - this topic shows the data structure which is also critical)...Mobilism • View topic - The structure folders On iGO

    Do your homework - it will help when you install...

    Good luck!
     
  17. Jeremy Harris

    Jeremy Harris New Member

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    Wilco, but as there is an inline aerial amplifier it may well be that this check doesn't tell us much.

    Jeremy
     
  18. Jeremy Harris

    Jeremy Harris New Member

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    Thanks very much indeed for that advice, it's much appreciated. I'd sort of assumed that I could just copy the iGo files to a micro SD card, plug it in and go.......

    Looks like I need to do some homework.

    Jeremy
     
  19. rrolff

    rrolff Prius Surgeon

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    Really, it's hard due to the display - most are lower resolution. The data.zip file must be in the right place, and be correct for the display. Also, the sys.txt file must have the correct stuff (again - don't remember specifics).

    Looks like my old forum is gone - and has moved. You will likely run a 'skin' - I think a DIMKA search will get you there - and help in your quest (800x480 data.zip etc)... Good luck!

    Maybe things have moved forward in the 6 months since I ran mine - it may be easier (I had to find a specific iGo version data.zip etc)..
     
  20. dtuite

    dtuite Silverback

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    Drat. At which end? Well, if anything occurs to you, relative to a swap-out test, and it's not a big pain to implement . . . .

    Discovering that it didn't make any difference whether there was any kind of whip screwed into the antenna socket changed my thinking about where the problem with the OEM radio was -- unless there actually IS an antenna diversity setup, but I thought that hypothesis had been eliminated.