What every newb should know

Thanks for the helpful information. As a brand new Prius owner (and a 2010 owner at that), please bring on the 2010 tips! I'll add to them as I discover them myself!

 

I will remember all those things that had said..

 

PriusTips v2

PriusTips v2 ****** Basics for the new owner. ****** (Updated 8/22/06, and edited 5/29/10)

It seems a long time ago that I compiled these tips for the NEW '06 model in another thread. A lot of these cars are now changing hands - unfamiliar hands in many cases, so maybe it is useful to add it here for purchasers of used Gen 2's in this thread.

HOWEVER, please note that a USED Gen 2 may have wear and service issues that are not mentioned here: this is not about maintenance, but about familiarization!

Before I bought a used Gen 2, I would have it checked out by a competent authorized dealer to avoid any nasty surprises, and after purchase I would have it fully serviced, unless the previous owner can produce impeccable service records.

I expect most new Pri owners go through the same difficult learning curve I did with my '06, beginning in Feb. '06 . Hence this document.

At time of initial writing I was on my 4th tank [now 45,000 miles]; the following is the result of my inquires over the initial months of ownership plus some later corrections/additions. It is intended to cover most important issues new drivers find confusing, or may be unaware of, but need to know.

I have put extra emphasis on tracking fuel use and attaining fuel efficiency, because this is the reason most buy the Prius. However, there is much more to be found on this subject throughout the Forum.

Your corrections/additions are very welcome (please Post, and/or PM me).

There is an acronym index at the top of this forum.
********

FIRST - READ: Quick Reference Guide and Pocket Reference Guide (PRG) which come with the car and will get you driving. [P 3: of PRG is N/A if you have keyless entry (SKS), except it does show how to remove emergency key from fob. The manual is best kept for reference, until you have gained basic familiarity with the car and have a day to study it (except for SAFETY INFORMATION which should be read before operating the vehicle).]

INTRODUCTION:

BREAK IN: Merely avoid excessive acceleration and speed for the first 600 hundred miles, and general driving abuse. (At the end for this post you will find a link to a thread on the subject.)

GENERAL DRIVING: Take some extra care until you get used to the different controls, vehicle dimensions and the invisible front of the hood. (It took me quite a while to get used to the very different controls and vehicle dimensions). The cowling beneath the front and rear bumpers is very low and easily damaged by higher kerbs and parking lot dividers, so don't pull in too far.

BACKING UP: Objects seen in the display through the rear camera are MUCH closer than they appear, and it is VERY easy to impact something that you think is still a foot away, especially because the throttle is very responsive. I don't know what zero clearance looks like (I was not looking at the display at the time ) The plastic bumpers and panels are very soft and dent/deform very easily.

The Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) will start and stop unpredictably and may race suddenly on hills, which can be disconcerting: don't worry about it. It is keeping your batteries charged when stationery, and providing power in synch with the electric motor.

IGNITION MODES: Foot ON brake, press Power: turns car to drive mode, allowing gear selection. Foot OFF brake, Power button turns vehicle to ACC, IG-ON, Off, with successive presses. If parked and you want light-duty accessories like audio, you can use ACC, which disables the engine for safety (for a few hours only, for fear of draining the small 12v battery : turn off A/C and lights!) Use Park for prolonged periods of heavy-duty accessory use when the car is supervised or locked, so the engine can recharge the 12v battery (but only in a well-ventilated space - CO2 poisoning risk!) IG-ON permits review of warning lights and diagnostics and can also drain your starting battery.

THE MYSTERIOUS B MODE: Engine Braking Mode. Used for long steep descents, when generator drag is insufficient to control speed and you don't want to overheat and wear the mechanical brakes. It is the Prius equivalent of changing to a lower gear to control speed on a descent. It causes the engine to be rotated by the drive mechanism, so causing drag. I often drive in mountainous country, but seldom need it. It is great for keeping the speed down on snow and ice without using the brakes.

WHAT YOU MUST KNOW!

FOB: Fob is always kept on one's person. Do not leave the fob inside the car; women - don't try to lock purse (containing fob) in car. You cannot lock the car with the SKS fob in it; if you leave it there you may not notice the car does not beep & flash lights (lock indicators) as you press the door lock button and walk away.

An adjacent cell phone or other electronic device MIGHT interfere with fob's action. You can gain entry with the mechanical key embedded in the fob.

LOCK DOORS! Doors do not auto-lock upon entry or exit. You must use lock pad on exterior of door, rocker switch on arm rest, or fob lock button. (I recommend you always manually lock the car immediately after entry for personal security). You can not check the lock condition of the front doors with the SKS fob on your person except by examination of inside lock indicators: the car will always unlock for you! You can program the SKS to only unlock the driver's door (security for a single person) - see manual.

PARKING: Before you exit car, deliberately hold Power button down to shut down and automatically engage Park (be careful, I have had the car try to drive off without me on a couple of occasions; therefore I recommend if you stop for any reason except traffic, firmly press Park, or Power off; I have failed to press firmly enough to disable the vehicle - also, if just holding the vehicle on the brake, it's easy to forget drive is still engaged in the silent vehicle).

You can temporarily leave the car with engine running, by selecting Park; Park is NOT for parking in the conventional sense, because it does not power the vehicle down. Park disables the drivetrain and locks the brakes; selecting a gear disables Park so you can drive off. Also use the emergency/parking brake when stopped on grades (release by stepping on it again).

If you power off with headlights on, they will turn off automatically. So you can leave lights always on, if you prefer to drive that way.

STOPS WHILE DRIVING: The vehicle is designed to hold the car in place if you stop on a hill and take your foot off the brake (I'm not recommending that practice). Because of that design, if you stop with your foot lightly on the brake, the energy display may show a flow of electric power from the battery: the brake pedal has not traveled far enough to shut off power. So get in the habit of adequately depressing the brake pedal at a stop.

GAS (unleaded); Manual says Prius requres 87 octane minimum - however 86 (at many cut-rate stations) should be OK at higher altitudes - 4000'+ (I regularly drive at this altitude or above and the car runs fine and gives good mileage). If car complains (knocking) you may have to use 87 octane. Higher octane gas has NO advantage unless the engine knocks. I have no experience at sea level.

The GAS GAUGE and TANK CAPACITY are very confusing, because the gas reservoir is actually a bladder, the capacity of which varies with temperature between as much as 9 and 11.9 gal according to reports here. For this reason, range cannot be predicted with useful precision. In addition, range (mpg) is greatly reduced by a variety of adverse conditions, discussed below. So adopt the following rules to protect your car and enjoy peace of mind:

1). IF THE GAUGE FLASHES EMPTY, GET GAS IMMEDIATELY, at any price; driving on empty (on the battery) can cause severe, costly damage!

2). In thinly populated territory, don't let the gauge get below 2 bars (3 in adverse conditions).

3). In town, don't drop below 1 bar.

4) Check the gauge shows full before leaving - it lags somewhat.

You can just accept these guidelines and skip to FLUIDS, or read the detailed explanation which follows now, later or never. Certainly later, if you are interested in performance, as most Prius owners are.

FUEL USE
Until you are familiar with the process, watch fuel gauge when refilling (power off, and press Power for ACC condition). The gas gauge lags, and after the pump shuts off, it should creep slowly up to Full (irrespective of the amount of bladder distention and its actual volume); further tank topping is inadvisable after the pump shuts off, unless you KNOW the tank is well below capacity.

Recognize you probably will, without knowing it, have an incompletely full tank (less than 11.9 gal) which can seriously diminish range! The volume above the Full mark is unpredictable: in my warm climate it is enough for 100+ miles under normal conditions; yours may be different. The bars on the gauge are not a linear measure, and probably differ between cars and according to temperature in the same car, due to differences in the deformation pattern of the bladder as it empties, collapses and is refilled. All you know is the amount of gasoline you put in, plus some uncertain residual amount related to the number of remaining bars before filling. It is futile to attempt to calibrate the bars by recording the mileage and mpg as each one disappears, because this quantity cannot be relied upon to be constant.

As a further compounding factor, driving conditions have a MAJOR influence on MPG (see below). Therefore, the desire to predict range and efficiency of a full or partially full tank with useful precision is fruitless. All you can know is the BEST to hope for, which is NOT something to rely on. Be resigned to keeping an eye on the gauge, and refilling as suggested above.

A recent experience of mine at 70 degrees F: Last bar just started flashing; added 5 gal - gauge went to 6 bars; added 2.5 gal - gauge went to Full. Tank then accepted approximately another 4.5 gal! :noidea:

If it's important to get a full tank in very COLD weather, and you are close to a gas station, try to fill while still garage-warm.

FUEL ECONOMY is measured in the short or long term by the computed MFD (Multifunctional Display) reading, not by miles/tank, and in the long term by averaging consumption and mileage over multiple tanks from the MFD or your log.

For these reasons and the other environmental conditions that can improve (or more often degrade performance), "best tank claims" are totally meaningless, and should not stir envy. Such claims are typically selective, ignore "worst tanks", and probably are driven at 30 mph. with a following gale, ending in a a 5000' descent in neutral.

TRACKING EFFICIENCY (mpg): The '06 model MFD gas consumption screen works differently from previous years. When you add over 3 gals., the miles indicator will auto-reset to 0; however, the mpg indicator to its left does not: you must remember to press RESET whenever you want (every tank, every trip, every several tanks for an average, depending on your goal). If you keep a gas log, you can reset on every tank for maximum data, and record odometer and mpg read out as well as gals dispensed), and driving conditions (adverse or favorable that affect mpg) for the previous tank.

(If I were starting this today, I would keep in the car an old notebook or a netbook computer with a spreadsheet set up with the calculations I wanted, including running averages over 4, 8 and 16 tanks and directly enter the data, so I could immediately see the results and spot potential problems.)

There are a several reasons why it's best to reset the mpg gauge occasionally if you don't keep a log: 1) cumulative mpg over the life of the vehicle is not a very useful figure, except fiscally, and can be calculated if you only note odometer and mpg at intervals (monthly?). Also, 1 tank averages are seldom useful 2) It is inevitable you will eventually touch RESET by mistake, and lose the average mpg data (you can use your notes to interpolate the lost mpg since the last record adequately for fiscal analysis) 3) Trends such as improving mileage during break-in, or deteriorating performance are "diluted out" by the miles already accumulated and cannot be properly evaluated. 4) Mpg varies greatly due to a variety of mostly environmental conditions beyond one's control, and so a single tank will not be representative, whereas multiple tanks will tend to average out such variables. Mpg averaged over 3-4 tanks is ideal to give you an indication of changes in vehicle performance, and may alert you to a malfunction in the vehicle if there is an inexplicable mpg drop. 5) MPG recorded during constant conditions (part of a tank) can teach you what performance to expect in varying conditions, and how to drive for optimal efficiency; see what mpg you get driving into a 20 mph headwind, for example, at 65 vs 80 mph on a slick vs rough road surface.

FACTORS AFFECTING MPG: Highly dependent on driving habits (especially acceleration and speed), terrain, wind velocity (moderate to strong wind not within 45 deg. of your rear center will exert severe drag; so you can expect unfavorable wind, if any, 75% of the time, assuming its direction is random), rain, snow, proper tire inflation, road surface, load, and to a lesser extent, engine break-in. These often unnoticed variables make it almost impossible to determine short-term gas efficiency meaningfully, so don't take high 1 tank mpg claims too seriously). If you want to attain 50 mpg on level highway, drive at about 65 mph (with no wind). Cruise control helps mpg by maintaining even speed, except on hills: if you feel it holding you back going downhill, turn it off, and resume at desired speed. Watching your gauges will help you attain your target efficiency.

It bears repeating:
DON'T RUN OUT OF GAS!!! The Prius will shut down if it runs out of gas and running it dry of gas and power can damage components, including the expensive hybrid battery :Cry: . Do NOT attempt to run on battery alone for ANY distance except getting safely off the road (thanks, Galaxee). NEVER rely on what you THINK you have left!

Get gas IMMEDIATELY if last bar flashes! Don't get to less than 2 bars on expressway/rural drives.

The computer requires addition of _at least 3_ gallons of gas before it will allow you to restart, IF you run out. Gas cans are usually 2.5 and 5 gal. capacity; some individuals can not lift a full 5 gal can. Take note!

FLUIDS:

Check oil & brake fluid every 2nd tank at least.

ENGINE OIL: 5W-30 weight in ILSAC multigrade engine oil (if you go to a Quickie-lube, make them prove they are using the correct oil (they PROBABLY are, but you never know). Check level with engine off, warm and on level ground. If the dipstick is on 'Low" it takes 1.6 qt to bring it to "Full". (ANY grade is better than nothing if seriously low!!!)

Capacity: with filter change: At an oil change put in 3.0 to 3.5 quarts of oil. ("The owner's manual and apparently the shop service manual are misleading-to-wrong on this point: the system capacity is 3.9 quarts, but it cannot be completely drained. If the filter is changed, MORE oil is required." Use the dip stick, and fill incrementally (it's easier to add than drain) - tell Quikie-lube people this. The current model is not damaged by _mild_ overfilling as the Classic model was (per Galaxee).

COOLANT: Prius uses a special coolant (from Toyota); use ordinary coolant only in emergency and drain and replace ASAP.

BRAKE FLUID: SAE J1703 or FMVSS No. 166 Dot 3 (in auto parts shops).

There are no transmission or power steering fluids.

TIRE pressure: 40 psi front, 38 rear, cold; check often. (Not factory recommendation; preferred by PriusChatters for better mileage). Check religiously. Note: You should pressurize tires when they are reasonably cool. If you repressurize when hot you will under-pressurize them because air expands with heat (very bad on mileage and tire wear). When you repressurize tires, or change a wheel, press reset switch under steering wheel when tires are cold (tire icon shows on instrument panel). This resets the low tire pressure detector.

VENT (often ): Do not allow passengers or gear to block Vent near RR seatback! It cools the main battery!

PROBLEMS:

FAILURE TO START: (Assuming you have gone through the starting sequence correctly: foot firmly on brake!)

If vehicle does not power up, check starting battery with voltmeter - it should show over 12.5v. If it does, you have a system failure. If not, charge it (see precautions elsewhere). If you don't have a voltmeter charge it anyway.

If the vehicle powers up, but does not start, check headlights: if dim, charge starting (12v) battery.

If the battery is charged but won't start, put vehicle in park. Try cycling (resetting) the computer: power Off for 5 seconds then On several times. If it still won't start, turn off power and walk away from the car far enough that the fob won't lock the car (press Lock: no beep & lights don't flash), and wait a few minutes for computer to recycle before attempting to start.

Try placing the fob into the slot under the dash, in case its battery is bad. Try the other fob. If this fails, call Toyota for help.

TOWING: Front wheels MUST be off ground - e.g. on a dolly, or raised, or better, on a flatbed recovery truck.

If you need an emergency tow for a SHORT distance by another vehicle from the front (e.g. out of a ditch, off the road), install the towing eyelet in trunk through the plugged hole in the driver's side front bumper (manual, p 373). Do not allow anyone to attach a hook to the front axle (serious mechanical damage) or frame (bumper damage). I do not know of a rear attachment point.

CHANGING WHEEL: Manual, p 364. Buy & use a small star brace, in preference to the tool provided by Toyota (safer, much easier, especially when lug nuts are getting set in their ways). Ignore text to Manual illustration on p 365 - it is incorrect: loosen nuts anticlockways 1 turn, pulling one arm of the star brace with one or two hands and pushing with hand or foot on the other arm, before jacking up the wheel and completely removing the nuts.

LOST FOB: is a serious problem :doh: : plan for the eventuality. No ordinary expert can gain entry to your car and no one can make it drivable without the fob. Have a copy of the fob key made and hide it in a magnetic box among the struts at the rear of the car. You cannot drive the car with emergency key: it is only useful to recover resources inside the car (deactivated spare fob, cell phone, purse, water, shelter).

At Walmart, have them put new batteries in the fob - lifetime 2-3 years.

Always know where the spare fob is. Near home, you may be able to count on someone bringing you the spare. On a trip, put one fob in a pocket, the other in a purse or different pocket to minimize chance of loss & so that it leaves vehicle with you, or let a companion carry it. When you arrive at your destination, leave one fob attached visibly to your luggage (caribiner) so you remember to return it to your pocket when checking out.

If you prefer, you can remove the battery from the spare fob, and hide them separately in the car: just be sure you always have access to an extra entry key. This is probably the most fool-proof option.

If you don't have access to a fob, Toyota has to program one (~$260, and slow if no spare is in stock.) - you must give them the key number so note it somewhere accessible - (it was on a ticket attached to one of the fobs when delivered.) I don't know if the dealer has a record of it.

FLAT BATTERY: If the 12v starting battery goes flat, the SKS system will not work and you will need to use the fob key to get in (Thanks, Oxo). For this reason keep lightweight jumper cables and a flashlight under a front seat, not in the almost inaccessible rear storage area (no rear key access).

A flat battery can be jump started - there is a positive terminal for this purpose in the fuse box under the hood, L side of car: ground the negative terminal on unpainted frame. (see manual p 414). Make sure you practice this ahead of time, and don't let anyone else do it (even if you are a not-so-helpless woman faced by an insistent male know-it all). Connect the cables wrongly (reversed polarity) and fry $5000 worth of electronics! :fear:

If you have to use a battery charger, use the low power setting ~ 2 amps (with care - polarity);'

EQUIPMENT: Plus the usual personal stuff, I keep the following supplies in the vehicle: In spare wheel well: assorted tools, baling wire, electrical tape, tow strap, brake fluid, 1 qt oil, 4" funnel for adding oil, brake fluid, gloves, tie-down cords, bungee cords (can hold hatchback down if it can't close over load), rag, nylon tarp. In under-floor bin: 1 gal. water (I live in desert), folding shovel, 1st aid kit (inc. tape, bandages, gauze, etc for a serious injury). Under seat: small star brace, powerful flashlight, jumper cables under seat; tire gauge in console. A can of tire sealant/inflator would be a good addition. So I'm paranoid!
************************************************** *****

OTHER USEFUL RESOURCES: (In my opinion rather more advanced or specialized - but most valuable):

John's Stuff - Toyota Prius User-Guide (updated for 2005; The best of the bunch).
http://priuschat.com/Just-got-your-Prius-t14398.html (Engine break-in)
Toyota Prius - how to articles from wikiHow
PriusChat Toyota_Prius_FAQ
http://priuschat.com/forums/files/multi5.pdf (Advanced: Customized electronics alternatives)

I hope some Prions find this helpful in getting a quick start on their new prize. Please post or PM with corrections or short and verified additions to this document. Thanks to those who have already done so.

Enjoy your "new" Series II Prius Hybrid! :car:

Cgraham

DISCLAIMER: Each owner/driver is responsible for the necessary safety measures, proper care and operation of the vehicle, and for checking the accuracy of the above information. The information here provided is as accurate as the writer could determine at the time, but he will not be held responsible for the consequences of any failure of the owner/driver to verify it, or for any personal injury or property loss arising from use or misuse of the information, or for lack of information not included here. Please note that this article is about basic operation of the vehicle, is not intended to be complete, and does not address safety issues, which should be studied in the User Manual before vehicle operation.

The author does not claim to be an authority on the Toyota Prius: the advisory notes above are based on his experience, technical sources such as the User's Manual, and Prius Chat discussions.

 

Definatly worth the read thanks guys!

 

Regarding the gas tank and topping off, as a new owner (Bought a used one recently) I was made aware of being careful of this issue...Which I had been, in fact I would often try to pump the gas at less than full throttle (Now I realize this was not the best idea).

On the way back from a 400 mile drive, midway, I stopped for gas to fill it up (I was at 3 bars)...I throttled the pump midway (Normally, I had been finding that at 3 bars, I could only muster about 5-6 gallons)...It eclipsed 6 gallons and continued to go up...At about 8 gallons, it started to pour out of the tank...I stopped it immediately as I was pumping by hand but now realize this was never the proper way to throttle the pump in the first place...I let my caution get the best of me and now worried I screwed things up.

I immediately drove over 200 miles or so after this incident and have since added gas with no apparent issue.

My question is, how can I tell if there's been any longterm damage to either the gas bladder/tank etc.?

 

Thanks for all the info. If I get a Prius, I'm not sure if I will yet, I'll be sure to remember all this

 

" 5. A Prius is not a snowplow. computers will not let you spin the wheels "

I disagree!
Remember to take ECO mode off if you are “stuckedâ€. With normal mode Prius uses gasoline engine to get out of deep snow. I have lot of experience driving Prius in deep snow, and I think that it’s better “snowmobile†than regular same sized car. Of course winter conditions in here Finland is little bit different that in US.

 

I am thankful for all this information. I am like Kramer from Seinfeld. I used to wait to the last minute to buy gas ---- sure won't do that with my new Prius!!!!!

 

I can't believe I just read all 37 pages.

So what is the deal with filling up? Can't I just pump gas like a normal car? People say to pump on 'low' settings but here in NY we don't have anything like that. You're squeezing the pump either all the way or somewhat not, or nothing.

 

So true.

 

Thanks!

 

Thanks for the info!

 

Thanks for the details.Its very helpful for a new member.

 

Some great info in the first post. Very helpful indeed.

 

I am a newbie with a 2010 IV Prius. This is my first Prius and the first thing I did after
getting my car was to find this forum. It is the best move I have made as I learn something important everytime I log on. Thanks Guys and Gals!

 

I am new owner of prius and also read quite a bit from this forum. I have found some very good pointers both before and after my purchase...

 

Wow, after reading how complicated it is to do things right
with this car, I'm wondering if I want one after all.

 

That's what auto mechanic shops are for if you're not mechanically inclined. Use a certified hybrid shop or dealer to properly maintain your car and you'll be fine.

Prius are very dependable.

 

Concerning "...do things right."
You're reading info from and enthusiast site. Much of what you read here is to increase understanding of the product. What you need to know is not very different from any other car. Keep air in the tires, gas in the tank, drive sensibly and follow the owner's manual for maintenance (which is less extensive than most autos.)

Enjoy saving gas and the environment...:welcome: