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DIY Transmission Fluid Change?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by dcoyne78, Dec 2, 2009.

  1. eric1234

    eric1234 Active Member

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    I haven't done the prius yet, but have had good luck with other cars using inexpensive hand pumps that are available at beauty supply stores (usually $2 or so), and then some flexible tubing that can be had at Home Depot.

    In my opinion, funnels can be tricky if you are concerned about contamination/dirt. Disposable pump/tubing seems easier than cleaning or disposing of a funnel... just a suggestion....

    My real question/concern is whether I can access these via the oil-service opening on the bottom, or if I have to remove more of the under-belly pan? I didn't pay as much attention as I should have when I did the oil at 1,200 miles.

    If anyone is making the trip under the car soon and doesn't mind taking a look at the access to the transaxle, it'll help me plan out my change. (Yes, I know I'm being neurotic...)

    I'm at 2500 miles now, and would like to do this at 5000, so probably sometime mid june. I'll update after completing...
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I've used a hand pump that screws onto the ATF bottle top, as well as a transmission oil funnel w/ 3 ft flexible tail. IMO a funnel is much easier to use as long as you can suspend the funnel above the work area, as would be the case with the Prius. After using the funnel, just wipe clean with paper towels and store in a plastic bag until its next use.

    (When I changed the MGR fluid on my HiHy I had to use a pump since there's limited clearance above the rear axle, that was tiresome.)

    Regarding loosening the drain and fill plugs I suggest that you have a 1/2" cheater bar available to supplement your 1/2" ratchet wrench, and improve your leverage. Looks like a 10 mm Allen hex key socket will be needed.
     
  3. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    Use caution with the cheater bar. A hex head is really easy to bugger up
     
  4. vinnie97

    vinnie97 Whatever Works

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    Why 5K? That just seems excessively early (and I agree with the 12K/15K mileage markers above).
     
  5. eric1234

    eric1234 Active Member

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    It's early compared to recommended intervals. It represents a perspective that an early fluid change removes any manufacturing contaminants that may have not been fully removed by part-cleaning as well as removal of the wear by-products that result from break-in. This is a topic that has been much discussed here and elsewhere. There is no right or wrong answer - just a personal preference... :)
     
  6. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    I agree with this policy

    I first changed the psd fluid in my '04 Prius when it had around 12,000 km on it. I was pretty amazed at the condition of the fluid, it had already darkened quite a bit and there was substantial fuzz on the drain plug magnet.

    I only wish I had changed the fluid much earlier. I did change the fluid yearly, every fall, and subsequent fluid changes the color looked new, and the magnet remained clean

    The only other vehicle where this was as noticeable - actually much more so - was the rear axle in my '07 FJ Cruiser. I changed that at 1,200 km, and it was jet black already, with heavy fuzz on the drain plug magnet
     
  7. vinnie97

    vinnie97 Whatever Works

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    Let us know how dark yours looks at 5K, Eric. I'm not really equipped to do my own but at under 1K miles, I might just have a dealer or trusted mechanic do it. The transmission was the first major component to go in an ole' Acura Legend (1990) I owned (also in an Integra).
     
  8. eric1234

    eric1234 Active Member

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  9. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Right on and very cheap insurance imho.
    Just re-cycle the used oil.
     
  10. eric1234

    eric1234 Active Member

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    WOW! I just called the service department where I bought my prius, and requested a Transaxle Oil change, and they advised that i didn't need to do it. The counter person had to check with the manager, and they came back to me with the information that the transaxle fluid didn't need to be changed for 100,000 miles, but if I wanted it done it would be $215. I another CT dealer quoted $189, and a third told me that 5k miles was "much too soon". I understand that it is early, but why argue with a customer?

    Anyway, looks like I'm going to be doing this one by myself...

    So, again, I'll query: Has any one done this themselves? Any guidance regarding the belly-pan?

    Thanks,
    Eric
     
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  11. vinnie97

    vinnie97 Whatever Works

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    Yikes! I may end up asking my former reliable Acura mechanic to do it at 5K. I'm bound to get a better deal than that.
     
  12. tumbleweed

    tumbleweed Senior Member

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    Wow is right, that's expensive, I ask my dealer and they said $90 which includes 4 quarts of ATF WS fluid.

    I haven't done mine yet Eric but I looked at the drain & fill plugs yesterday while doing an ICE oil change. Looks to me like you access them through the same door/flap thing that you do the ICE oil change through. Two 10 mm plugs on the right hand (passengers) side of the transaxle. You should not need to remove the under engine cover. Torque value of the plugs is 29 ft lbs. Remember to take out the fill plug first. It should take about 3 1/2 quarts of Toyota ATF WS, fill to the bottom of the fill plug hole.

    As I mentioned I have not done this yet so if I have anything wrong be sure to let me know.
     
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  13. eric1234

    eric1234 Active Member

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    Thanks. I'm at about 4,000 miles, and am thinking to do the ICE and transaxle at the same time (5k).

    I have hex sockets from my motorcycle days, so it should be easy enough to do. I interpreted all of those other pictures the wrong way (I thought the plugs were on the driver's/left side of the transaxle.)

    We have a dealer in CT that sells parts online at 20% discount - which meant the TRD oil filter was about $12.50. When I asked my selling dealer how much for them to use the TRD filter with my "free" oil change - they advised that it would be another $24.

    And I sometimes contemplate that just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean that people aren't out to get me... ;-)

    What was so funny was the discouragement the service writers all gave me when I said I wanted to change it out early. It was like they'd never heard of the concept of an early change to flush out leftover manufacturing and initial wear debris. (Granted that it is an opinion - not necessarily a proven fact that doing so enhances equipment life. Nonetheless - you'd have thought I'd suggested putting vinegar in the oil based on their reactions.)

    The funny thing was the parts guy made it sound like the fluid change required some special equipment/protocol, required hooking up to the computer, and was not a self-service item...
     
  14. pjksr02

    pjksr02 Active Member

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    Some thoughts:

    Are you going to go with Genuine Toyota-WS ATF?

    It may not always be straightforward, removing the drain plugs. They can be tighter than a tick, and you may not have room to fit a hex-head socket onto the plug. The Prius looks to have enough room, but I have always needed to use a hex key, with an extender pipe, on my Sienna's differential drain. As a previous poster mentioned, make sure the socket/key is well seated into the plug, lest you strip the bolt... Properly torquing the drain bolt with a hex key is guesswork.

    How about replacement washers for the drain plug(s)? These are usually 18-mm, aluminum, and can sometimes be reused. But, if you're changing your ATF at 5000 miles, you're probably using new washers! I had a devil of a time finding this size washer for my Sienna (found ones online after NAPA wanted about $2.59 for copper washers).

    Another possibility for refilling the transaxle is to buy some clear plastic tubing at a local hardware store. I've used tubing, jammed onto the end of a funnel, with good results, though a two-person filling method is best. Keep a bunch of rags, or a drop cloth under things, because there will be some spillage.

    Have fun!
     
  15. tumbleweed

    tumbleweed Senior Member

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    CHANGED MY TRANSAXLE FLUID TODAY

    This is not so hard, any half competent back yard mechanic should be able to do it, I did.

    1. I drove around for a while to warm things up.

    2. Put front wheels on my Rhino ramps, jacked up the back of the car to get it level, used the underneath jacking point (to the right of the gas tank). Put jack stands under the rear tire change jacking points for safety, because I'm a coward.

    Hint, I used a carpenters level under the rocker panel to find level, close is probably OK. If it's not level you will get the wrong fill level.

    3. Go underneath and open the oil change door/flap. Find two 10mm Allen plugs on the end of the transaxle. The fill plug is just behind where the right wheel half shaft comes out of the transaxle. The drain plug is down and further to the left. The inverter coolant drain is on the bottom, the two we are interested in are on the end of the unit (toward the passenger's side).

    4. Remove the fill plug. Both plugs will be tight and you may need some leverage. Always remove the fill plug first!

    5. Remove the drain plug and drain the old stuff into a oil change pan. I measured what came out and it was almost 3/1/2 quarts so not much stays in when you drain it. Catch a sample to have analyzed and post the results:
    http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-iii...vw30-transmission-oil-analysis.html#linkbacks

    6. When it is finished draining put the drain plug back in, 29 ft-lbs. I wish I would have had new washers but I reused the old ones, I'll check for leaks again in a day or so.

    7. I snaked a hose down between the inverters and the firewall right over the fill plug and stuck it in the fill hole. Put a small funnel in the hose and started poring in the fluid. I used Toyota ATFWS $7.78/quart at the local dealer. I don't think you should use anything else!

    Hint: If you have a siphon pump the hoses that come with it seem the right size, at least mine were. I used one of them and a small kitchen funnel that just fit the hose.

    8. After I got 3 quarts in I kind of watched it and added almost another 1/2 quart until it started running out. Let it run out till it quits and that should be the right amount if the car is close to level. It took a bit less than the 3 1/2 quarts.

    9. Replace the fill plug, also 29 ft-lbs.

    10. Take the hose out, put away the tools. Let it set for a few minutes while you clean up the oil drips, there will be quit a few if your like me. Then make sure you have no leaks, close up the oil change door.

    11. Remove jack stands and jack, your good to go.


    If you find errors please let me know and I will fix them, thanks.



     
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  16. hsiaolc

    hsiaolc New Member

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    Hmm thats way too early to change that. I will change mine at 15,000 miles. 15k and definitly not at 100k.
     
  17. hsiaolc

    hsiaolc New Member

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    I get mine fore free hehe.
     
  18. jayman

    jayman Senior Member

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    Thank you for the good write up!

    Must be nice to live in the UK. Good for you
     
  19. hsiaolc

    hsiaolc New Member

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    Nah. Its all about who you know. Nothing to do with the country.

    And actually I love America a lot more than the UK.
     
  20. eric1234

    eric1234 Active Member

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    Wrong. You did that because you're smart.

    Thanks, Tom, for the great write up, and the necessary consolation to give me the confidence to follow in your footsteps... again...

    Eric