I finally took the plunge and added side moldings to my Blue Ribbon Prius. I'm pleased with the outcome, but this is a fussy job and might not be for everyone to attempt. I can supply a write-up, if anyone is interested in trying this DIY. Check out my album: Side moldings modification
Nice job! I had dealer install mine as part of purchase deal. I think they look good, and so far no door dings.
Thanks Leading Edge and Lee...I've already had a friend with a red G3 ask me do add them to his. He will order from Priuschat shop. Hopefully, the red ones are as nice as my blue ones are. Yes, so far, no dings here either.
Sorry, but I'll pass on the side mouldings. I have them on both a 2007 & 2009, but I don't like the way they would look on my 2010.
I'm deciding on whether to install the moldings (most likely yes) and then whether to try it myself of have dealer etc do it. Your photographic record is teriffic. But I tried to print off the instructions, and couldn't quite read them. Any chance you could either post a higher resolution pic of the instructions, or send me a higher res pic? if sending, address it via email to [email protected] By the way, I have to complement you on your choice of car color. I have the same color as you, so I can tell just how they'll look. Thanks, Rick
awesome! i just installed mine too - they were $175 and had optional chrome insert. i didnt get the chrome but thinking i should have... oh well. (Toyota Accessories -Prius Painted Bodyside Molding)
You should had ordered them from the Priuschat Store. They are $119 shipped plus you help support this helpful forum. I already placed my first order with them (not the moldings) but those will come soon. Luis
Thanks to all for the feedback. Rick, sorry the scanned instructions were not too readable. If you attempt this as a DIY, you get one shot to get it right so I did more than the instructions said to do. DISCLAIMER: INSTRUCTIONS HERE ARE WHAT I HAD TO DO - IF YOU FOLLOW THEM, YOUR RESULTS COULD VARY DEPENDING ON YOUR SKILL LEVEL. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR OUTCOME. If you feel you cannot perform this, get a body shop to install your moldings. 1) You should decide on the height you want to put the moldings. They suggested 13 1/4 inches from the bottom of the door edge. For me, that was too low but again, I live in a city where SUVs and jacked up pick-up trucks rule so I went for 17 1/4 inches from the bottom edge of the doors. 2) That reference line is for the TOP edge of the molding. Then I put several tick marks in wax pencil (easily wiped off) and did a mock up of the moldings with vertical masking tape (see pictures). Once mocked up, I used a level on the lower edge of the moldings to insure they were straight. You might have to undo the tape to re-secure it for straightness. Take a look after alignment from different perspectives to be sure the location is eye-appealing. 3) Then I took a wax pencil and traced an outline where the final location for the moldings would be placed. 4) Remove the mock ups and see the outline in wax pencil. I discovered that I could move the edge locations pretty close to the door seams to reduce the "gap" I did several test door-opens with the mock ups in place to be sure they would clear before committing to a location. 5) Now use masking tape and put lengths on the upper line but covering that wax line by 1/8 inch. Then put the moldings back up with vertical masking tape (as shown) using the lower wax line for a reference. Again, use a level to be sure they are straight. Take a ball point pen and scribe a line on horizontal masking tape you just applied over the upper wax line using the top of the molding as the straight edge. This is your final mounting reference line. 6) Remove mock up molding again and put masking tape 1/8 inch over the lower wax line. Also, put masking tape 1/4 over the wax lines on each end. The area you now see surrounded by masking tape is the treatment area that you put the etching compound. Again, you should clearly see the ball point pen line on the upper tape. This is the "money" line! 7) After BOTH sides of the car have been prepped with masking tape, you can use the etching compound. It is tricky and you don't have much time. First, clean off the masked area with Windex and then use the alcohol pads provided to get the adhesion zone of the car completely clean of dirt and wax. 8) Now squeeze the "crush zone" of the etching compound and carefully scribble the masked area on the car finish with the applicator. BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY OF THIS MATERIAL ON OTHER PARTS OF THE FINISH!! 9) Let the etching compound dry about 15 minutes. 10) Now it's time to mount the moldings. Remove the backing from the molding. Tilted up, get the molding lined up on ball point pen line front to back. Be sure it's exactly where you want it - you get one shot to get it right! Lower it down to the car and press it on. Burnish gently to get it secured in place. Now do the same for the next piece. I started with the front door and did the rear door last. 11) Carefully peal back the masking tape which is slightly behind the molding. The adhesive tape on the molding is recessed 1/8 inch so that's why you protected the car finish slightly above the adhesive zone. 12) Wipe off any trace of wax pencil by rubbing with a clean soft cloth or using a gentle wax cleaner (I bought a bottle of Acryli-Clean). You can refer to the provided instructions, but they were not as specific as I needed.
Step 7 is important, if you only preped one side your small bottle of "etching compound" could dry up. They refer to this etching compound as PRO-BOND.
Thanks, the instructions worked for the SE Toyota version (wedge shaped) too. I chose to mount 80 mm higher though.
Installed mine today from danny, they look great on a white car. personally i think it gives the plain sides a bit more dimension. They went on great. It really helps that they are rigid, making them easier to line up. i would encourage others to try to put them on themselves.
