Oil Change 2010 Prius - do it yourself

Well, I am aggravated. The first single thing that I have found wrong with my Prius. Those oil pan fairing compound fasteners. I drive some pretty rough places, and the fairing is getting banged up, and the big one of the three was broken off, and one of the smaller ones broke in the cool weather when I put it back in. They might as well consider them single use fasteners. I changed oil once at 5k, now today at 20k miles, using a purolator filter and Mobile1 0W-20 fully synthetic oil. I used the original oil drain plug washer, boy is it stuck on there, but since it didn't leak the first 20k, why mess with success?

I have resolved to let the car work for me, I don't work for it. It has averaged 47.8 mpg since I got it, I drive easy but don't agonize over it. What a solid little car. I run an inverter from the front lighter plug, to keep the computer charger and printer and all my electronics running. I guess my cavalier attitude will make it last only a couple of hundred thousand miles, like so many Toyotas I see. This is my first Toyota ever, and I am REALLY impressed.

 

Just picked up 9 quarts of Mobil 1 0W-20 at the local Wal-Mart for $4 a quart. I talked to the gal that works in the auto parts section and she told me it was on sale because no one would buy it and they weren't going to carry it any more. I told her they should give it a little more time because a lot of new cars from Toyota, Honda, and other manufacturers were going to require it. She said she knew that and had told the managers but their minds were made up and they didn't want to be confused with facts.

 

Hmmm. I may have to swing by my local Wal-Mart tomorrow and see if they're having a sale...

Bryan

 

That would be good for 3 changes in a second-gen prius, but I
think the 2010 takes a bit more to fill between the dipstick marks.
.
_H*

 

Correct, the book says 4.4 but 4.2 does just fine.

 

I read someplace that those plastic clips break often, and to just simply use plastic zip ties. They're cheap and do the job.
I was wondering of using cheap wood blocks instead of jack stands?

 

Assuming you will be doing your own maintenance, I would suggest what has saved me tons of time. Discount Auto Parts chain stores sell a set of tough ramps that are easily stored. Just drive up and change your oil, etc. I has cut down my maintenance time dramatically.

 

You have a link to the ones you bought?

With mine, I have to park the car backwards nose at the end of my driveway to keep the ramps from hitting the body when I drive up.

 

Put 1 or 2 - 2x4 planks in front of the ramps before you drive up them. Worked well for me when I did the OC at my brothers (he has a big 30x30 garage/barn).

 

Thank you much....I asked for oil change instructions before I saw your post. Do you do the first oil change at 5000 or 10000? Or put another way, is the original oil that toyota puts in at the factory synthetic? Dealer was supposed give me coupons but I only received one from them and since I live 100 miles from where I purchased the car, I'm wondering whether I'll need coupons, whether I can get it done for free from the local dealer here even tho that's not where I bought the car. Or, put another way, does toyota issue the damned coupons or is that just a dealer thing. I otta know all this stuff by now, please excuse my iggernance.

 

We are told that Toyota uses 0W20 synthetic for the first fill at the factory. I changed mine early anyway, might not help but it sure won't hurt. I'm one of those old fashioned guys that thinks it's a good idea to change the oil early with a new engine to remove the silicone etc. left over from the casting process.

If you go the DIY route you will be pleased to learn that it is really pretty easy to change oil and filter. Most of us are using Mobil 1 0W20 and Toyota filters. You can find the oil at Wal Mart or the local auto parts store, filters and drain plug gaskets are available on line (link in this thread) or at the dealer.

Have fun.

 

Wanted to thank the OP and others contributing to this great thread. Just completed 1st oil/filter change at 9,138 miles and 6 months. Thanks also to John1701a for his oil change document. I prefer ramps to jacks/stands when crawling under, so that was my lift method. Was easily able to get the plastic shield slightly past vertical. I think the ramps provide about 8 inches of lift.

Glad to have fresh oil/filter. It certainly wasn't as bad looking as a lot of 3000 or 5000 mile changes I have done on other cars. But I know that doesn't mean much.

Hardest part was popping out the centers of the 3 retainer pins on the plastic shield. Just have to keep prying with small flathead screwdriver. I was able to re-use them, but can see they will need to be replaced at times.

Went to Toyota dealer to buy the SST (special service tool) to remove the filter housing. They sent me to a local auto parts store ("that's where we bought ours") where I got a variable size tool with spring tension which worked fine for removal. I hand tightened.

I love the car, but would not want to drive rutted dirt roads with it regularly. We had to do a little of that, creeping along, staying out of ruts, but still scraped the plastic a bit. We will similarly avoid deep snow whenever we can.

 

Would you please post the make and model number on the tool?

 

I purchased the Assenmacher (ASTTOY640) Toyota Oil FIlter Wrench from Amazon. It fits the oil filter housing of the 2010 Prius specifically. Well-worth the $16.00. On my first oil change I used a strap wrench to carefully loosen the housing, but that isn't the correct tool to use. For my subsequent changes I'll use the Assenmacher tool.

 

Well so far my first oil change is not going so well. I figured my ol Camry filter wrench would work but it does not. So I am currently drained (oil) and no way to get the filter out. I bought a 65-67 wrench but it didn't work. Called the dealer and they want $40 bucks for the OEM wrench!!!!!

So one question I have is if I put the new oil in, is it possible to just replace the filter without having to drain the oil or is it all just going to leak out?

I could go run into town and get a 65mm only wrench with the gas guzzler but I fear that won't work either... can anyone verify that a 65mm will work?

Thanks!