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red BRAKE, (!), ABS and VCS are on, cannot find what codes mean

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by johngeorge, Jan 19, 2010.

  1. johngeorge

    johngeorge Junior Member

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    Hi all,

    Here is a little history..
    2004 Prius, Finally after 184,000 miles the car needed brakes, so I got pads/rotors/shoes and changed them all. Everything is fine and happy except the rear shoes seem to not be all the way tight, making a cyclical noise in the rear.. needs a little adjustment, will do later. I drove the car for a day without issues, no lights on the dash no problems.

    Two days after the brake job I decided to change the front drivers side bearing/hub (thought it was making the usual bearing about to fail noise at speed) but ran into a problem with the wheel speed sensor bolt shearing off the end where you put the socket on to undo it - looked way rusty. Not a problem, I have a set of easyouts so I drill the bolt and use the small easyout but the darn thing snaps off and is now stuck in the bolt.. cannot get it out, cannot drill it out. I ended up filing what remained all the way flush with the rest of the flat surface, then drilled right next to it a hole and tapped it with 10-24 tap. I then connected everything back up, making sure the cv metal boot abs hole ligns up normal and bolted up the speed sensor now turned about 2deg from its normal position onto the knuckle/hub assembly. Problem is now the red BRAKE, (!), ABS and VCS are on and cannot figure out if its the sensor being turned slightly or not.

    The car drives and stops good, except its a little jerky at slow speeds, almost like the brakes are locking up.

    So, I found in the Toyota shop manual (page 05-973) how to check for codes using the DLC3 by jumping pin 13 (TC) and pin 4 (CG) and waiting for the (!), abs, and vcs to start flashing writing down the diagnostic codes but what I got does not match up what is in the book for codes (page 05-985 through 05-988).

    (!) flashing code: 66 95
    ABS flashing code: 42
    VCS flashing code: 45

    What do they mean? Any help would be appreciated. I dont have access to the DTC scantool to go in and read the ABS/skidcontrol codes..

    Thanks
    John
     
    #1 johngeorge, Jan 19, 2010
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  2. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Hi John,
    Welcome to Priuschat!! You sir have a bitching set of tools!!!

    Well done on the brake nightmare but I believe the sensor resolution requires a better and more precise placement of the sensor. You didn't open up the hydraulics did you? Thats a pain also.You cannot bleed this car's brakes.
    I do not see those codes in my manual either which means its dealer proprietary Toughbook Toyota Service software time.
    Like you nothing mechanical scares me on a car but the brakes on this car are crazy. There's so many sensors tnat require software alignment:

    Pedal stroke sensor
    sdteering angle sensor
    skid control ecu
    pedal stroke sim
    wheel cyl sensors
    wheel speed sensors
    yaw & decel sensors

    Yikes.

    As a lark since you went this far try a better fitment on that sensor. Then remove the boot battery ground cable for about 5 mins and dump the codes. See if that'll trick her into it.

    Good Luck and let us know how it goes.
     
    #2 edthefox5, Jan 19, 2010
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  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    My suggestion is that you clear the codes by following the repair manual procedure: jumper between pins 4 - 13 of the OBD-II connector, then make the car READY and depress the brake pedal 8x in five seconds. See if the same codes reappear.

    Strange that those two-digit codes do not appear in the DTC list. If you had the 12V battery connected while you were working on the suspension, maybe the skid control ECU got confused given the vibration and mechanical shock associated with your drilling, tapping, trying to get rid of the broken bolt remnant, etc.

    If there was a problem with the work you did on the LF speed sensor, I would have expected the relevant DTC to appear: C0205/32.
     
    #3 Patrick Wong, Jan 19, 2010
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  4. johngeorge

    johngeorge Junior Member

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    Hey guys,

    Thanks for the feedback. I did initially tried using a slide hammer to remove the hub assembly without having to take the knuckle out and put it on the press.. so that def put some shockwaves in the car with me trying to pound it out. Battery was always connected. The other thing was when I tightened the axle nut I had Dad press on the brake pedal to lock the wheel from turning, and I think he might have turned the car on to do this, problem is I cant remember if I had already bolted the speed sensor in at that time or if it was just hanging there..

    I did reset the ABS/VCS codes by doing the procedure described by Patrick and lights/codes came right back.

    Will try undoing the - battery cable tonight, see if that helps, if not It looks like I need to visit a toyota dealer and have them read the codes.

    Also another thing, I have this OBDII scantool (obd-2.com) but cannot seem to get it to read the ABS/brake codes, it just comes up with a ? when it tries to read from the computer. Anyone had any luck with reading Toyota specific CAM codes using that software?

    John
     
    #4 johngeorge, Jan 20, 2010
  5. johngeorge

    johngeorge Junior Member

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    No change by disconnected the battery, still same result with the lights being on. Im heading to the Toyota dealer today at 1pm to have them hook up their scantool.
     
    #5 johngeorge, Jan 23, 2010
  6. johngeorge

    johngeorge Junior Member

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    Back from Toyota with no more warning lights!

    They found code C1345 / 66 - Not learning Linear Valve offset abnormality.

    It was fixed by performing initialization of the linear solonoids through their scantool.
     
    #6 johngeorge, Jan 23, 2010
  7. V8Cobrakid

    V8Cobrakid Green Handyman

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    brake pedals depressed... battery hooked up while changing things? sounds bad.

    you're supposed to drain the 12v system to keep the brakes from actuating while you work on things. this includes opening and closing the drivers door as it turns this system on. (i get this feeling you know all this for some reason and i read it wrong)

    your rear brakes are designed to "click" into spot when in reverse and hitting the brakes. a self adjust system.

    to keep wheels from turning, stick a huge #1 flathead into the front rotor... (the disk has openings, and cranking power from 1 human won't hurt it) i think i also tossed a bored between the shock and car frame.. so as the screwdriver rotated, it eventually stopped so i could work on the other wheel.

    (i just changed my front brakes a couple weeks ago)


    the rest is too advanced for me as i've never self checked codes (i have a smog tech friend with a really nice 15k dollar obdII reader)

    just making sure people know to power down before working on things... (this includes waiting as the braking system has back up capacitors)

    if everything is off, you can compress the front calipers by hand. (i recommend a 4x4 or 2x4 with the "4" side against the caliper.. the caliper against the strut.. and rest against the board and watch the caliper retract.
     
    #7 V8Cobrakid, Jan 23, 2010
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  8. V8Cobrakid

    V8Cobrakid Green Handyman

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    crazy.. all it took was a digital recalibration... fun car
     
    #8 V8Cobrakid, Jan 23, 2010
  9. Navi05

    Navi05 New Member

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    I seem to have the same problem, but excluding the VCS light on my auto. I was told it may be the wheel speed sensor on the rear driverside wheel.
    Regenerative braking is fine but the general braking is also jerky at low speeds.
    I remember reading on another thread that this could be due to a dirty/wet sensor or corroded one.

    Dashboard indicates

    BRAKE and ((!)) ABS
     
    #9 Navi05, Oct 15, 2010
  10. vertex

    vertex Active Member

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    This is the same problem I had 2 weeks ago. I have the Autenginuity, and was able to read the codes. Unfortunately, Autoenginuity does not report the info codes. I cleared the codes a few times over a 24 hour period. After the 3rd time, the codes did not come back. I am thinking that because of all the rain we had here then, moisture got into a connector, and caused a faulty reading. You can reset the codes by disconnecting the 12 volt battery negative terminal for a few minutes, or maybe witht the jumper method Patrick mentioned.
     
    #10 vertex, Oct 15, 2010
  11. UKCLASSICPRIUS

    UKCLASSICPRIUS Member

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    Right, Well this are the exact codes I am getting after trying to use Autoenginuity on my Gen II..

    I still have not got it to connect, BUT I wonder IF & when I do get it to connect, Will it deal with this performing initialization of the linear solenoids?
     
    #11 UKCLASSICPRIUS, Oct 27, 2012
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