Solar panels are directly connected to the blower motor when the system is active. There is no battery charging or battery interconnection. The system requires a minimum of 10V to operate.
{whispering so the Toyota folks can't hear us} And into which we're going to hack an device charging connection... correct?!?! As soon as we get tech manuals and the guts to cut into the wiring? Actually, to be specific, I believe we left it that the Forum is going to help Rick cut into his brand new solar panel equipped 2010 and figure this all out. Who's standing up with me on this?!?! We'll be right behind you, Rick. Actually, with that solar vent toggle switch, we should be able to safely tap into the panels when the switch has deactivated the system, leaving all that solar cell energy free for the taking. When activated, we quietly throw a relay to disconnect the panels from our charging circuit and no ones the wiser. Shhhhhh.... I think I hear the sound of Toyota shoes
I looked through the EWD's just for this - it's not quite that simple, but probably doable w/ some effort. Additional relays and such would be required.
How can I tell if my system is working? I think I have it set correctly but I don't notice it making difference. Does it continue to operate after you open the door? Is there anything displayed on the climate control LCD readout? I can tell the remote A/C is working because the LCD comes on. I don't see, hear or feel anything to indicate the solar cooling is active. What should I be checking for?
as you approach the car quietly, you should be able to hear it (assuming not too much background noise) as you enter the car, it should still be working - audibly and you should feel the air moving all this assumes its hot enough in the car and the sun is shining on the roof if you pressed the remote AC as you approached the car all of the above is wrong - the remote ac turns off the venting and runs the ac for 3 minutes. so if you stuck your head out the dfoor and hit the remote ac, and five minutes later got in the car, there would be NO solar venting.
oh and i had the button wrong for a while (either in when its supposed to be out, or vice versa) - i looked it up in the manual and fixed it while the car was powered on, and have been good since.
I know this sounds silly, but I never think to use the remote AC. The fob is tumbling around in my purse somewhere - and I know I don't need to fish it out to open the door - and I do love getting in and feeling the vents going and knowing the ridiculously expensive solar panel gizmo is working. The car's not exactly cool - but is much cooler that it would be. So if I did remember to press the remote AC button - wouldn't I be in the car and starting it up within a minute or less of pressing the button? How cool could things get in the time it takes to walk from the outside radius of the fob activation to the car? Remote heat would have been my choice!!
you make a good point i have yet to use the button i would have to say to myself - ok - gonna go in 5 mins, lets go outside NOW and press the fob button i never remember if i were in phoenix i probably would
Where I live, the remote A/C is definitely going to be a nice addition...but lately I have been thinking how it will start to cool off and begin to get cold in a few months, so I convinced myself to go ahead and get the remote start function installed. (which will basically serve as remote heat, when the time comes)
Does anyone know if there's any way to set the Remote AC to not turn off as soon as you open a door? To me, it seems silly that I can start the system, walk to the car while it cools, and then BAM it switches the compressor off for the 10 seconds it takes to get in and start it! Or, if I was loading groceries in the trunk, I'd like it to still be cooling the cabin while I'm puttering around the back. Doesn't it seem harder on the AC compressor to turn on, then off, then on again?
I sometimes use the remote AC when I am getting ready to leave my mom's board and care. I can stand at her sliding door and push the button. Truthfully the SR venting has kept the car pretty reasonable in this heat we've had in SD through out August.
You could spend more on much sillier options with no function. Some of my bumper stickers are "eCar" and "Re-Volt" so I had to get the solar roof. Also I have a sizeable electric cooler on the back seat where I put blue ice in the morning. I keep my juices, vitamin/supplement packets, lunch salads, and even canned food that I don't want getting too hot. If you really want to keep the interior cool for, say, leaving your dog while shopping, here's a neat trick: Leave the power on with air conditioning. Set parking brake and turn off lights. Roll down driver's window and get out. Reach in to lock all doors. Activate window up while quickly removing arm. All doors are locked and nobody can get in. Air conditioning mostly runs on battery. You get back in with hard key slid out of key fob. A cop told me they don't break in unless the dog looks distressed. You can leave a note. But my dog looks quiet comfortable! By the way, I have two solar panels on the dash (Kragen) and one resting on posts slid into rear headrest holes (Harbor Freight Tools)
For those of you that have remote start and now that most of the country is in a deep freeze, can you use your remote start to serve as remote heat? I find that I am in the car for nearly 5 minutes before the heat even starts to feel that it is getting warm. Do you run your car for 10 minutes before you get in? Seems like you would be wasting gas to do that. I've been using the butt warmers to close the gap between when I get into the freezing car and when the heat finally kicks in. (I just got my car about a week ago - so I haven't had a chance to try out the solar/ac stuff yet.)
You can use the key to lock the door instead of reaching and locking the door and winding the window up.
Warning: Prius Board Newbie! I'm about ready to replace my 136K Miles 2002 MINI Cooper with a Prius IV. I'm 99% sure I'm going to spring for that Solar Package. I look at it this way: Cows weren't designed to be at 140ºF to 180ºF (unless you're planning on eating them). So having the leather seats cooking in the hot sun all the time (for those of us who can't garage their cars) is not such a good thing. My last 3 vehicles have had leather seats, and the Luxol treaments didn't prevent eventual leather cracking from the summer heat. I think the solar package will help the leather outlast the car, and that alone to me is worth it. When I first got the MINI, I had the window tinted ASAP as dark as possible (except the driver/passenger which isn't legal in California). Suffice to say the rear seat leather is in much better condition than the front seats after 7 1/2 years of outdoor parking. I'm hoping the rumors of buying incentives will hit (like is rumored for March) due to the issues Toyota has been having lately. 0% Financing would be wonderful for a start, rather than my 4.375% Credit Union loan.
SR will help little bit, but don't expect huge different. It will pull in outside air to inside the car. I sat in the car few days ago and it was 70 here and after 10 mins there is a good strength air blowing to me... Some states, like PA and few east coast states offered 0% in President Day weekend. I've not seen anything 0% in CA yet. All those extended warranty are still rumor as far as I am concern as of today, 2/25/10.
Keep in mind that the solar roof will keep the inside cooler but not necessarily protect the leather seats. If they're in direct sunlight, they're gonna dry out even if the solar roof is running.
Even without extra tint, the UV blocking on 2010 windows is very effective, so reducing heat should help a lot.
No doubt. In 30°C last summer, it didn't feel any hotter than the 2005 (in fact, it might be a tad cooler... this is without the SPVS running). Definitely a LOT better than the smart which had no such heat absorbing window.