I have noticed that sometimes (not all the time) when I start my 2004 Prius the red triangle warning light comes on (master warning light?) it stays on for about 3-4 seconds then goes off again... it never stays on. Why would this come on sometimes and not others? Sometimes I can clear it by turning off power, taking out key and starting car again... but sometimes it doesnt clear it and light shows again for a few seconds... any ideas?? Ann MArie Just read another thread and found it may be my 12v battery... if anyone has any other ideas please let me know..thanks
If you are still using the original 12v battery, replace it. Your problem is most likely the 12v battery.
Ive only had the car a couple of months so am not sure if its the original battery or not. Will price up a new battery
Hi Boppo Thanks for that.. I had a look at the optima yellow top and its £166 here in the UK... would the Toyota one be the same sort of price? Also does the Optima one need a kit of some sort to fit it? Thanks for your reply Ann Marie
yes you need a kit and it should come with the battery, at least it does in the USofA. The nice thing about the yellow top is that it will not discarge as fast if you are listening to the radio or CD in the not ready state.
Test the existing battery first, either with a voltmeter or with the built-in self test (no tools required). See this thread: http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-ii-...ather-done-my-beautiful-prius.html#post991935
OK, just done the self test, and the voltage is showing 9.9.. so looks like I need a new battery. It wouldnt do second stage of test though, as soon as i pressed power for the second time the screen changed to normal and wouldnt show me the test screen.. tried it several times. Ann Marie
That's since pushing the POWER button the second time turns on some additional electrical loads. This would drop the voltage lower and cause your Prius to reset. Time to get a new 12v battery. JeffD
I've had the same problem before. My aux batt failed and needed to replace it. Had to do it with a dealer and it cost me a lot of money. I'm still a fairly new owner and don't know where to get one cheaper and I don't even know what the aux batt is for. Got it replaced anyway and my car worked fine and better. Also one quick question, does anyone know what a little snow flake with a road in the middle symbolizes? Well it seems pretty obvious what it is but I want to make sure the car is all right. I'm one of those owners who don't have an owners manual.
Aaah now the snowflake on the road sign is one i know! :cheer2: Its basically telling you its cold outside... If the outside temp is below 3 degree celcius or below the light will stay on to say the road could be slippery, if the outside temp is 3 degrees it will come on and stay for a few seconds but then go out. I only know this as it came on and stayed on in my car the other morning, so I got out my manual had a look I was pleased it was nother serious. ok... as for my battery.. using the built in self check 1st showing on acc was 9.9 2nd showing with 2nd press was 9.3 3rd with with car in ready mode and aux charging it was 14.3 so the only reading that was ok was the 14.3.. seems I need a new battery. If anyone does need a new auxillery battery (12v) shop around at your local car parts dealers, thats where I have found them at £45 ish. Dealer wanted £85 + VAT and £35 fitting. Thank you all for your replys and advice. Much appreciated. Ann Marie :wub:
I hope so!! I havn't bought it yet, but I gave them my registration number and said I needed a 12v battery... they said they have them in stock and they are £45 + VAT... So im taking it that they are the correct ones... Are they as easy to change and fit as a 'normal car' battery? Also if I ask to see one of these batterys what would I be looking for to see if it has the 'vent hole'? Ann Marie
No, a little harder. You have to remove the folding hatch floor, the black plastic tray over the spare tire and the trunk trim in the right rear corner to find the battery. Then you have to remove the traction battery vent that runs over the battery and the brake power supply (rectangular black box) that is next to the battery. No need to disconnect the wiring harness connector to the power supply. Then you need to remove the negative battery terminal, it is easier to remove the wire where it attaches to the body. Then remove the positive terminal. The terminal fuse block is attached to the battery bracket. Remove the bracket and fuse block as one assembly. Then remove the vent hose that attaches to the side of the battery, and you can remove the battery. Then remove the negative terminal cable from the battery. Installation is the reverse. Make sure the connections are snug and the battery bracket hardware is tight so that the battery cannot move, but not so tight that you run the risk of cracking the battery case. After the battery is reconnected, you need to reactivate the driver's side power window auto up function (owner's manual should explain that.)
Get it from a dealer. To date nobody has reported finding a drop-in direct replacement for the original battery. Everything else needs some manner of adapter kit. £85 + VAT and £35 installation is comparable to what we pay in the US. I'd say it's well worth avoiding the trouble of fitting a non-identical battery. If you're handy with tools buy the correct battery from a dealer and install it yourself, as Patrick described. md, buy an owner's manual from a dealer, and be aware of the scheduled maintenance guides at http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/ These will both save you trouble and money.
