Oil Change 2010 Prius - do it yourself

I have the same filter wrench you have.

There is a spec for the torque settings for the oil filter cap of 18 foot pound.

 

They have to give you something to go by so some ya-hoo doesn't think its like a headbolt.

I just guessed!

I'm sure there is a torque spec for the spin-ons too but the just say "hand tighten".. whats that mean?

My "hand tighten" may be 3 times stronger than some limpwrist?

With a little oil on the gasket to seal, I think just tighten it enough that its snug and then a tad more...... thats about 18lbs!

 

Well, I did use a torque wrench to tighten it since I have one.

We certainly dont want to be playing out of spec around here, or even mention it. Might start another 500 post thread about voiding the warranty!

 

I use a jack and stands becuase I check the brakes while I have it off the ground.

 

It's an "O"ring seal, it isn't that critical.

 

I am at the pin pulling stage and already disillusioned with Toyota engineering. What kind of cheap junk is this thing held together with? I understand having to pull the center to remove the pin. Have one snapped, one out and one about to snap. Crap design. I can see this for a door panel but not for an a routinely accessed area. My VW has torx fastners and the fitier is on top of the engine. Don't even have to do all this foolish ramp and belly pan destruction. Oil change can be done topside. Sorry about the rant, but this is not what I expected from a Toyota (my 7th). I feel much better now and will go back out to the driveway to break off the final clip...

 

agree, this should be way more accessible.

 

I suppose I could rant some more, but will just give a heads up. Clips can shatter at 40 degrees. I am currently bleeding from just below the eye from high speed fragments hitting me in the face. The center pin cap had broken off and I was being a bit forceful with needlenose pliers. I know, I shouild have just drilled it out, but I have a little problem with having to use destructive power tools just to get to the drain and filter. 2 nice cuts. Wife was not pleased to see me walk in the house bleeding beneath my eye. For those that may discount me a newbie, I have pulled and rebuilt engines, and am pretty darn handy and mechanically inclined. Apparently unlucky, as well.

 

Dang.. thank God it wasn't your eye over a mere oil change.

I agree, those clips are pretty cheapy.. we need some decent fiberglass or even aluminum ones... Heck I would rather have screws than something that breaks.

I managed to get all mine in ok but a few are bent a tad..... I learned the right size screwdriver makes all the difference in the world!

I was at first using one with too large of a head and it was a fight... but if you get a smaller one that fits in the little slit "made for that", with a little twist of the wrist, they pop apart like presto!

The whole crawl under your car shield thing I'm not crazy about... another reason I went with Amsoil SSO 0 - 30W... .I don't want to have to do this every two months.

 

I agree, it is cheap, poor design. My guess, Toyota engineering may well have come up with a good design such as VW or BMW use but some bean counter in a management position decided it was to expensive and ordered them to find a cheap way to kluge it together. This kind of thing happens a lot in big companies and big government.

I have been thinking of replacing those 3 plastic fasteners with screws and clip and nut holder things (sorry I don't know their correct name). I would also like to cut the entire oil change door off and figure out a good way to re-attach it without having it fold down. Or maybe leave it off entirely? could this actually make any difference to fuel mileage in the real world?

 

I like where your going with this.....
Some ideas:

1. Unless you can get on the backside where the nuts are, it wouldn't work, unless you could permanently fasten some nuts on the other side, but they would have to be aligned perfect or it obviously wouldn't work.

2. Do they make small molly bolts that are plastic you can reuses by unscrewing and they get tall and thin again to come out?

3. Maybe even drill new holes and thread them?

4. Leave the shield in place and cut a smaller hole "1.5ft X 1.5ft" just to access the cannister?.... with a valved oil plug and hose attached this could be a good idea!

5. And my most favorite.... flip the car upside down!

 

Does anyone know if these would be appropriate replacements for the fasteners:
Retractable Captive Panel Pins (at bottom of the page)
McMaster-Carr

 

I'll look around next time I'm at the hardware store.

Might work, do you need to buy a special tool to install them though?

 

I called those guys and talked with them.. they didn't think those would do well because they stick out and are activated with 1/3 turn and felt they may come loose or even vibrate out.
They are designed for mounting into something thats not as flimsy as the plastic shield I think.

Then he took me two pages over to here. "then scroll forward two pages to catalog page 3225" IN the upper left is the place to forward click on the arrow to go forward.

Apparently these get tighter the more you turn them and may do better and have a lower profile so as to not get banged round under the car.

Looks like they are zinc plated steel and may be worth a shot... you would have to find the exact size hole, otherwise the fit will be too loose or you may be drilling to bigger to get them to fit.

The ones with the phillips head looked the most interesting to me.
Looks like there is a "retainer installation tool" that must be bought.
These may be allot like using a rivet gun, except the center shaft is removable.. not sure.

 

thanks to the OP of this thread. it was just what i was looking for. off hand, does anybody know the cost of the filter plus gasket at the dealership. and also, does anybody know what the OEM oil that they use.

thanks,
paul

 

Can't remember the dealership cost of filters, there is a new O-ring in each filter box. You can order Toyota filters here: Genuine Toyota Cartridge Oil Filter FREE SHIPPING! 04152-YZZA6-CASE10 case of 10 for $46 free shipping. I suggest ordering a bag of 10 drain plug washers also.

Dealers use Toyota brand 0W20 oil, which according to some is made by Mobil here in the US. Most of us use Mobil 1 0W20 from Wal-Mart for $6.27 a quart, or the auto parts store for slightly more.

 

^^^
thanks for your quick response tumbleweed. i need to change the oil asap so ill just pick up 1 filter from the stealership tommorow. and thanks for the M1 reccomendation. i've been using it in my other car ever since 1000 miles and have never had any problems with it. granted the prius is totally different than my other car, but im sure it wont be a problem.

thanks again,
paul

 

You might consider changing the spark plugs a little earlier than 100k if you diy the plugs may seize in the sockets after that long, 60k or less makes more sense to me and use anti-seize paste when you do it. My 2004 Prius is at 120k and no brake work needed so far except rear brake cleanining/adjustment.

 

If they did seize, I would spray liberally with some liquid wrench and drive it another day and then try.